Originally Posted by joe diego

I'm an idiot! Didn't know I had to hit the remote bUtton twice!
Anyway, this was a pain in the *** to do. I would really hate to do this again.

Originally Posted by Mannyz33

Thanks to JFPOUND for the initial concept and FIREFOX for answering a couple of wiring questions.

Definitely would be a good idea to have a Dremel tool.

Went to Lowe’s and picked up a aluminum bar that was long enough to produce two brackets.

1. Measure, cut & bend the bar to fit in between the two ribs.
2. Drill the holes necessary to mount the actuator.


3. Mount actuator to the bracket. ( I opted to screw it in through the back).


4. Cut this part off inorder to give your clamp room to slide.
( I used my Dremel tool to cut it then a grinding attachment bit to grind it down a bit).
BEFORE


AFTER


5. Drill the holes necessary to enable the rod to pass through.


6. Mount your actuator to the door panel.
( Don't forget to slide your clamp in place before you mount the bracket or you will need to dismount later to fit it in.


7. Remove the door speaker and right below you will find the wire harness for the OEM actuator, pull the purple & blue wires out slightly.
I opted tap into the wires rather then cut them and put connectors.



8. I opted to pull the wires through this rubber wire housing.


9. Clamp down the rod and oem actuator wire together ( Do not over tighten cause you'll crack the clamp.)


10. Fit the wire with the desired connectors ( i purchased connectors that matched those that came with the actuator ) and connect to the actuator and test.

Originally Posted by pythonjosh

I've done this fix to 15 G coupes (and growing) down here in So Cal, and I've cut the actuator wires on each one.
With the number that I have done, and will do in the future, I don't want to find out if 1 in 15 oem actuators that are left wired up will cause a problem, or even 1 in 100.
Because that one that has a problem from the dead actuator spreading its cancer, is gonna be a B!TCH to fix.