07-08 350z seats in a G35 coupe
#1
01-02-2017, 01:21 AM
07-08 350z seats in a G35 coupe
07-08 350z cloth seat - driver's side, 4-way adjustable, manual *****, no air bags.
07-08 350z cloth seat - passenger's side, 2-way adjustable (sliding and reclining only).
My car: 2004 G35 Coupe (USA, left hand drive)
It is possible without having to modify any part of your G35 coupe (not too sure on sedans but should be the same?) to swap in 07-08 350z seats. Minimal manipulation is required to make these fit properly.
Important things everyone needs to know about this seat swap!
A. 03-04 G35 Coupe seat belt clips WILL NOT WORK in 07-08 350z seat belt buckles, you MUST swap these out (not too sure about 05-06's, if anyone can confirm this be my guest). After removing your original heavy azz G seats also remove the seat belt buckles using a 14mm socket and socket wrench or an equivalent tool; do the same for the 350z seats. The hardware is a little different on both seats - the 350z seats have shorter 14mm bolts as well as the metal brackets the buckles are attached to themselves, they are shorter than the G35's. However, the wiring harness is longer on the Z compared to the G's but it is still long enough to reach the bottom of the main wiring harness where it connects. (refer to pic #1)
Remember to do this buckle swap with both seats out of the car. I learned the hard way and did this after the fact. It was a pain in the azz, don't ask.
A1. Your SRS (airbag) light will remain ON & blinking unless you do the resistor mod (I believe one of the 350z UK websites shows how to do this). I have not done this bc a blinking light does not bother me as much as it probably would for most other people. To me it's just a blinking light and it's not that bright either, so if you're anything like me it won't bother you. If you're nothing like me and allow little things to get to you, then you will want to do the resistor mod (do a search bc I do not know how to do this.. if I did I would've included it).
B. Installation of the 350z driver's seat (left side). This particular seat needs tweaking but not as much as people claim it does. I read on a different thread some guy said he had to "massage the transmission tunnel" (if you're desperate and lonely go ahead, *joking) I didn't. Once you've cleaned the coffee & soda stains and vacuumed the floorboard carpet while the seats are out, it's time to install the 350z driver's seat in first. I say install this one to begin with bc the passenger side is much easier to do. Knock out the harder one first.. Once you've placed it inside the car, sit in the seat and slide it all the back. You need this room to access the "snake shaped" brace (refer to pic #3 outlined RED) under the front side of the seat, don't forget to use a good flashlight. Next remove the 10mm bolt (shifter side, circled BLUE refer to pic #3) then loosen the other 10mm bolt (circled YELLOW refer to pic #3) but you don't have to completely remove this one.
C. Align the REAR seat rail holes to the holes in the floorboard. For this next step sit back in the seat and scoot it all the way forward as well as reclining it completely upright. By doing this, you need the room to have access in mounting the rear seat rail section to the vehicle. Using the x2 original 14mm bolts you removed earlier (when taking out the G seats), hand tighten these back in only 1/2 way after the holes are align with one another. DO NOT USE ANY TOOL AT THIS POINT, OR YOU'LL STRIP THE THREADING ON THE CHASSIS AND THE BOLTS THEMSELVES. (If you tighten these x2 bolts all the way down you will not have enough slack when aligning the front holes, leave them loose! no pics here, self-explanatory). Sit back in the seat and once again slide it all the way back, reclining not necessary.
D. The front left seat rail hole (door side) should align without much muscle at this point, therefore you should easily be able to align it (you may need to slightly shift the seat around via your hands to make this happen). Next use another 14mm bolt to screw down this section, again hand tightening only getting it started about 5 to 6 turns but not bolting down completely. (refer to pic #4)
E. Hardest part in this entire swap is - aligning the front right seat rail hole to the floorboard hole (shifter side). Here I had to use a large pry bar and my 3/8's" cordless impact driver (3/8's" socket wrench / 14mm socket will work too). (refer to pic #5).
If you're nervous about stripping either the last 14mm bolt and/or the floorboard threads then I suggest using metal lubrication grease (anti-seize lubricant Permatex brand is good) as it will greatly help. Also a third hand is always good too, have a buddy push the pry bar against the seat rail while you carefully screw in the last 14mm bolt. However I was solo so with my right hand I held the pry bar with my body weight against it while aligning the holes & with my other hand using my impact driver slowly triggering the last 14mm bolt into the floorboard until it stopped spinning; tighten down.
F. You're almost done, using the same impact driver (or socket wrench whatever you have) bolt down the previous x3 14mm bolts, I tightened them down in an “X” pattern, left rear, right rear and last front left bolt; torque them down afterwards. I don't know exact torque specs for these, but I torqued them to about 40 - 50 foot pound torque by hand via my 14mm socket wrench. Also, don't forget to tighten the x2 10mm bolts for the snake-brace. Now plug in the seat belt buckle connector into the proper connector located on the main wiring harness coming out of the floorboard (this basically turns off the seat belt dash light after you wear your seat belt and click in). It’ll be a skinny white colored connector, can’t miss it as you cannot mistakenly plug this into any other connector. As for the remaining connectors on the main wiring harness, hang them somewhat loosely bc you'll need some slack while sliding the seats forward and backward particularly for the passenger side since it'll more than likely move more than your driver's seat. Mainly you want to make sure it doesn't get caught up and snagged anywhere while chillin' underneath your seats.
G. Lastly, do the passenger seat. The installation process is similar to the driver’s seat but it’s 10 times easier. Remember, swap seat belt buckles on both G and Z seats, then remove x1 10mm bolt and loosen the other 10mm bolt on the snake-brace and go from there. All of the holes will line up without much muscle at all (if only I could've said the same for the driver's seat!).
Finished product -
07-08 350z cloth seat - passenger's side, 2-way adjustable (sliding and reclining only).
My car: 2004 G35 Coupe (USA, left hand drive)
It is possible without having to modify any part of your G35 coupe (not too sure on sedans but should be the same?) to swap in 07-08 350z seats. Minimal manipulation is required to make these fit properly.
Important things everyone needs to know about this seat swap!
A. 03-04 G35 Coupe seat belt clips WILL NOT WORK in 07-08 350z seat belt buckles, you MUST swap these out (not too sure about 05-06's, if anyone can confirm this be my guest). After removing your original heavy azz G seats also remove the seat belt buckles using a 14mm socket and socket wrench or an equivalent tool; do the same for the 350z seats. The hardware is a little different on both seats - the 350z seats have shorter 14mm bolts as well as the metal brackets the buckles are attached to themselves, they are shorter than the G35's. However, the wiring harness is longer on the Z compared to the G's but it is still long enough to reach the bottom of the main wiring harness where it connects. (refer to pic #1)
Remember to do this buckle swap with both seats out of the car. I learned the hard way and did this after the fact. It was a pain in the azz, don't ask.
A1. Your SRS (airbag) light will remain ON & blinking unless you do the resistor mod (I believe one of the 350z UK websites shows how to do this). I have not done this bc a blinking light does not bother me as much as it probably would for most other people. To me it's just a blinking light and it's not that bright either, so if you're anything like me it won't bother you. If you're nothing like me and allow little things to get to you, then you will want to do the resistor mod (do a search bc I do not know how to do this.. if I did I would've included it).
B. Installation of the 350z driver's seat (left side). This particular seat needs tweaking but not as much as people claim it does. I read on a different thread some guy said he had to "massage the transmission tunnel" (if you're desperate and lonely go ahead, *joking) I didn't. Once you've cleaned the coffee & soda stains and vacuumed the floorboard carpet while the seats are out, it's time to install the 350z driver's seat in first. I say install this one to begin with bc the passenger side is much easier to do. Knock out the harder one first.. Once you've placed it inside the car, sit in the seat and slide it all the back. You need this room to access the "snake shaped" brace (refer to pic #3 outlined RED) under the front side of the seat, don't forget to use a good flashlight. Next remove the 10mm bolt (shifter side, circled BLUE refer to pic #3) then loosen the other 10mm bolt (circled YELLOW refer to pic #3) but you don't have to completely remove this one.
C. Align the REAR seat rail holes to the holes in the floorboard. For this next step sit back in the seat and scoot it all the way forward as well as reclining it completely upright. By doing this, you need the room to have access in mounting the rear seat rail section to the vehicle. Using the x2 original 14mm bolts you removed earlier (when taking out the G seats), hand tighten these back in only 1/2 way after the holes are align with one another. DO NOT USE ANY TOOL AT THIS POINT, OR YOU'LL STRIP THE THREADING ON THE CHASSIS AND THE BOLTS THEMSELVES. (If you tighten these x2 bolts all the way down you will not have enough slack when aligning the front holes, leave them loose! no pics here, self-explanatory). Sit back in the seat and once again slide it all the way back, reclining not necessary.
D. The front left seat rail hole (door side) should align without much muscle at this point, therefore you should easily be able to align it (you may need to slightly shift the seat around via your hands to make this happen). Next use another 14mm bolt to screw down this section, again hand tightening only getting it started about 5 to 6 turns but not bolting down completely. (refer to pic #4)
E. Hardest part in this entire swap is - aligning the front right seat rail hole to the floorboard hole (shifter side). Here I had to use a large pry bar and my 3/8's" cordless impact driver (3/8's" socket wrench / 14mm socket will work too). (refer to pic #5).
If you're nervous about stripping either the last 14mm bolt and/or the floorboard threads then I suggest using metal lubrication grease (anti-seize lubricant Permatex brand is good) as it will greatly help. Also a third hand is always good too, have a buddy push the pry bar against the seat rail while you carefully screw in the last 14mm bolt. However I was solo so with my right hand I held the pry bar with my body weight against it while aligning the holes & with my other hand using my impact driver slowly triggering the last 14mm bolt into the floorboard until it stopped spinning; tighten down.
F. You're almost done, using the same impact driver (or socket wrench whatever you have) bolt down the previous x3 14mm bolts, I tightened them down in an “X” pattern, left rear, right rear and last front left bolt; torque them down afterwards. I don't know exact torque specs for these, but I torqued them to about 40 - 50 foot pound torque by hand via my 14mm socket wrench. Also, don't forget to tighten the x2 10mm bolts for the snake-brace. Now plug in the seat belt buckle connector into the proper connector located on the main wiring harness coming out of the floorboard (this basically turns off the seat belt dash light after you wear your seat belt and click in). It’ll be a skinny white colored connector, can’t miss it as you cannot mistakenly plug this into any other connector. As for the remaining connectors on the main wiring harness, hang them somewhat loosely bc you'll need some slack while sliding the seats forward and backward particularly for the passenger side since it'll more than likely move more than your driver's seat. Mainly you want to make sure it doesn't get caught up and snagged anywhere while chillin' underneath your seats.
G. Lastly, do the passenger seat. The installation process is similar to the driver’s seat but it’s 10 times easier. Remember, swap seat belt buckles on both G and Z seats, then remove x1 10mm bolt and loosen the other 10mm bolt on the snake-brace and go from there. All of the holes will line up without much muscle at all (if only I could've said the same for the driver's seat!).
Finished product -
Last edited by foreverdr1ft; 01-03-2017 at 11:58 PM.
The following users liked this post:
.cakestar (01-04-2017)
#2
01-02-2017, 04:43 AM
#3
01-02-2017, 09:36 AM
Initially, I attempted to "embed photos" but no luck therefore this sufficed. Wordy, I agree. If you don't want to click the links for pics then can't help you there, it's not that hard.
#4
01-02-2017, 05:45 PM
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foreverdr1ft (01-04-2017)
#5
01-02-2017, 07:22 PM
#7
01-03-2017, 02:10 PM
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#9
01-03-2017, 06:35 PM
I need to do this on my other laptop.. My Google Chromebook seems limited & does not like uploading pictures direct to g35driver, hence the pos flikr acct I had to create. Obviously that's not holdin' over too well either.
Don't use flikr for uploading and linking pictures in here. Photobucket saved the day...
Don't use flikr for uploading and linking pictures in here. Photobucket saved the day...
Last edited by foreverdr1ft; 01-04-2017 at 12:07 AM. Reason: ...
#10
01-04-2017, 04:35 AM
The following users liked this post:
foreverdr1ft (01-04-2017)
#11
01-06-2017, 11:45 AM
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foreverdr1ft (01-06-2017)