Solder is the word you're looking for.

The Nissan DRL modules are famous for 'cold' solders on the back of the circuit board, causing some strange issues. It's a good place to look, and likely the issue if the car has many miles on it and especially if it wasn't oil sprayed.

I tried finding pictures of all of it for you but the links are all dead. Maxima.Org had a good write up but like I said, dead links.

 

test

 

We finally got back to investigating our problem of only one daylight running light operating(the right or passenger side doesn't work). It came on once but didn't work again after that. We rotated 3 working bulbs through the 2 locations plus tested the terminals with the car running...no power comming to the plug on the bulb. The voltage to the working bulb was 15 volts, same as when in high beam mode verifying what Tuner Max explained to us about the function or disfunction of one light working. Our IPDM fuse layout is different than the one illustrated in the link above but we checked them all anyway. Two modules in a box near there are labelled DTRL 1 & 2 so in case that stands for day time running light, we switched them around...left still worked and right did not. Finally got around to looking in the daylight running light control unit and low and behold, one terminal of one module had broken free of the solder on the back of the board. Resoldered it and both the day light running lights have now been working at half intensity as they are supposed to for 3 days. Thankyou both for the help.

 

Glad yo ugot it fixed. Those DRL modules are famous for poor connections/de-soldering

 

I would like to add that I have the same problem.......(2005 G35 sedan c/w HID) At first I had neither DRL working so I replaced the the lower High/Fog H4 bulbs and if I remember correctly this solved the problem as both worked. the other day I came out when one of the kids was driving off and noticed the passenger side DRL not working. The only trouble shooting I have done so far is determine both HID's work and both fog's work when the selector is in Auto and the car is in the garage (this forces the lights to come on). When I back out and the HID's turn off (during the daylight) I can see only the driver side DRL switch on. I guess the next easy thing to check is that both high beams work and to determine the intensity, after that I will look at the relay. Any other suggestions.

 

You're on the right track. If the bulbs are good (high beams work), then it's likely the DRL module itself.

 

Locate the DTRL control unit on the passenger side of the engine bay (closer to the front of the engine, in front of the right/front strut tower). Take a screwdriver, and while holding the screwdriver by the shank, tap the top of the box...don't be afraid to use a bit of "gentle force!" Do this while the car is running, and the e-brake is down. If the DTRL control module is the problem, you will see the DRL that is out actually come on and off as you tap. If so, bulbs are good and DTRL module is faulty.

 

i've looked at the drl module and all the welding looks fine and solid. I still can't figure out what to change to get this workings. One thing I noticed is that when i unlpuged the DRL module (with engine on and ebrake off) is that the passenger drl lite up and the drive side shut off.

I want to get this fixed, anyone figure this one out ?

 

have you gotten your passenger drl fixed ? I have the same problem and i still haven't figured it out.

 

I got the same problem, i took out the DRL module, but cant seem to open it. Looks like it will crack if i bend it.

How did u guys open it

 

Did you ever get this fixed?

 

To anyone who is still having this problem/ not found as solution (even in 2016), I found this online and it helped me immensely: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/inf...ts-repair.html. I cracked the case of my DRL while opening it, but I just taped it back together and it worked fine.

If you're still around, thanks so much TunerMax, your posts were a big help!

 

Your issue is with the DRL module itself. Nissan and Infiniti are known for having soldering issues within their wiring. The DRL module is one area where the soldering fails, creating short to ground.You can fix this by either fixing the short itself within module or replace the module itself.​​​​​​​It's located in engine bay, drivers side, behind the radiator. It'll be a small rectangle box, two wire sets coming out of it. Can find a hood used one for fairly cheap ($20-30).

 

I am having somewhat the same problems with my 2005 G35 coupe passenger side drl...evrything else works...removed the H4 halogen bulb and found it "distorted" due to overheating? and the glass melting?...that's a lot of heat !...why would this happen AND what needs to be replaced?....I have done a number of things, including re-solder of the (cold solder connection) drl module....next?....I might replace the ballast/igniter?......please help with any suggestions.....thanks

 

You can start swapping parts like the ballast from one side to the other to see if the problem follows to the other side. Then you know what to replace.