Porsche has a big advantage with the engine behind the real axles. Anytime you can transfer the weight over the rear wheels(rwd car) you will have better traction.

 

ChicagoX you are not alone. It's as though a boa has been sicking the lifeforce out of the site lately. What kind of membership fileters out these punks. Isn't this the guy that spent 30k on his FWD Maxy to realize he spent too much money on worthless mods. I'd love to see someone race this guy so we can learn how to get high 12's with launch technique and drag radials. Oh and didn't you know that spinners are bad for your times!!!! Puleeeze.

 

It's true and I don't understand how you can deny it. G35 owners as a whole are inexperinced drag racers and other car enthuasist groups are no different. I'm not saying there aren't a few that know what they're doing, but most guys go out there with overly large rims, baking engines, full weight, launch at full on WOT from the start, no cool downs, don't understand staging, flash stalling a torque converter, etc and then don't understand why they're so slow or why G35s are only "upper 13 second cars" with bolt-ons.

It doesn't take much skill to launch AWD. Foot on brake, foot on gas, go. Let me guess since you're in Chicago, were these runs at Byron?

My track isn't open yet so I don't know exactly what my car will do, but I have a strong suspicion of what it's capable of and how to launch it.

No, I don't act like the Maxima was the second coming. The point to bringing up my Maxima is to show people that I have experience with VQs and where I'm coming from. If I don't explain my background then people can only assume it's BS. I'm not trying to insult people either and that's never my intention. I'm not some internet thug and if I really was insulting someone, they'd know it.

As for Russ, I don't deal with him and he doesn't get my respect. You must be mistaking me with "BrianV" and the debates he has with Russ. I can't be held responsible for their actions just because we come from Maxima.org.

I SUGGESTED those torque numbers because those are the numbers used to tighten the intake manifold and cover unit for the aluminum intake manifold on the Maxima. It was mearly a suggestion because most guys in here are tightening their plenums till it's "really tight". 15-20 ft/lbs is nothing and "really tight" suggests to me 50+ ft/lbs. Any person should know to consult the FSM for proper tightening sequence and torque especially when it comes to suspension, exhaust, and intake components.

I'm probably one of the most respected and most hated members of Maxima.org. It will be the same thing here. I'm not worried.

Why do I have to own a mod in order to question it's gains. And you know as well as I these cars aren't terribly mod friendly. Headers, cams, intakes, UDPs, etc don't make the gains most people think they do and most people don't understand the side effects that come with a majority of these mods. The gains I see with the 3.5VQ are the same gains I see with the 3.0VQ. It's not rocket science.

A majority of the people in this forum believe what they read and will buy something because of the gains Joe Blow's a$$ felt only because they don't know any better. They're an aftermarket company's wet dream. It appears you follow the same trend because you question nothing.

As for missinformation, what because I made a mistake in saying the 05 auto has exhaust cam timing? Give me a break, Son. We all make mistakes.

If you want to go any further into this, please PM me because you're doing this on many of the posts I'm involved in. From here on out I will not publically respond to another one of you tirades.

If you want to believe you're right, then go right ahead and believe it. Fine by me. We'll let the public decide who's right, who's wrong, and who doesn't give an F.

 

Distilled to the purest essence:

You don't know of what you speak. You have made it your job to bash mods you have no experience with on OUR CARS. You give poor advice and scare newbies with theory and your pessimistic attitude. You are the type of person that is sucking the life from these boards.

BTW, those times weren't made at Byron. (used a trackfinder, did you?) Those passes were at US41 in Indiana. I also race @ GLD in Wisconsin, Rt 66 in Joliet, Gateway in St Louis, Stanton in Michigan, and the infamous Byron. I'll go anywhere there's a race, Son.

I don't care to be judged by the public.....I just want you to stop poisoning this site.

Keep calling yourself an expert....I think someone, somewhere might just believe you.

 

ChicagoX next time your at Route 66 let me know.

 

So how long are you going to offend the forum before the forum asks you to GTFO. I'd say about 1 minute. If you have something constructive to offer then offer it. If one has the notion to be here to learn from others and glean what mods may work for them, they should not have to come here and read your dribble and mis-information.

You should speak from experience. The mods you speak of do make small gains and they are proven. Don't presume to know what you think people expect from a mod. I've informed myself and gotten more than I expected for less than 1k.

If you think you can get anywhere near 13.5 with an NA G without mods you have no clue, are completely absent of a reasonable clue and wonder what a clue even is. If you get there you should teach driving school. 2 years of drag times and proven gains and this punk thinks we are all clueless. Who actually gives this guy the time of day. If you have to add drag radials and shed 500 pounds then you are building a race car you don't drive to work and just going for bragging rights. SOme of us want to improve our daily driver and do so effectively with proven track results for the car we take to work. If you don't mind we were pretty OK before you joined and littered our forums with your puke of an excuse for advice or information. I've have better information come out of an abortion.

 

It's the truth and the ones that understand this stuff see it. G35Driver.com is no different than anyother automotive website. I'm sorry what I say pisses some people off. It's not my intention.

13.9s@101mph have been done on street tires in the 6 speed G35s. A set of 26" M&H ET Streets on 15" rims and a 5000rpm launch will get you mid 13s or better. Any car capable of 101mph traps, is capable of 13.3-13.4 with a 1.80 60'. A 1.80-1.85 60' on slicks is very possible with the power to weight ratio these cars have. It's all about the 60'. Add a lightweight 12lb Dynabatt battery, lightweight and narrower front tires and rims, pull the passenger seat, spare/jack, and run a 1/4 tank of 100 octane and see where that gets you. You'll basically remove 150-160lbs from the car. I'd say 13.2-13.3@103mph on a sea level track and cool dense air. A little extreme? Maybe, but when you're racing a car at the strip you're there to run as good as you can. I don't street race and I can't feel the difference when my car is 120lbs heavier, but in the 1/4 mile it makes a difference. I'll take advantage of that.

Watch what I do this Spring. Stock G35 sedan auto, 50 degree weather, 2" shorter than stock 225/50R15 Drag Radials on 11lb rims, no spare/jack, and a 1/4 tank of 96 octane.

That's constructive

 

Id say instead of going into the offensive mode on Dave B, since its pre season for the racing season, and someone is skeptical about what his assumptions are, why don't someone test his knowledge and start purchasing parts for this 2005 racing season. And prove him right or wrong at the end of the season.

Lets see to get some people started on what mods to get, I'm going to the best of my knowledge of what mods that G35 can get N/A to pull a low 13 second pass.

Performance mods
CAI or HAI which ever you think will give the better ooomph, Intake pleneum, ground wires, TS Ecu reflash, lighten flywheel, stage 1 or 2 racing clutch, full exhaust, wilder cams, UDP, Synthetic Motor and transmission oil.

Traction mods:
A pair of lightweight rims on slicks, stock or light weight rims in the front, Energy suspension engine mounts, lowering kit to help you launch better.

Cheap or light weight mods
passenger seat out, backseat out, spare out, spare jack out, trunk carpet out, light weight racing seat. And any other unecessary weight EX: subwoofer, books, gym bag etc. Remember for every 100 lbs off the weight of the car you shave off about a tenth of a second off your 1/4 time. Also big heavy rims slows your car down, for you physics people think centrifugal force. Takes more force to turn a 25lb wheel than to turn a 12lb wheel.

I could missed something so please post, so if some one has most of this mods done you are almost there to test it out, and no Gtech Pro times, they don't give accurate times. They only give you ball park times.

It may take longer than just this racing season to reach low 13s N/A or even 12s, it took the Maxima two years for a 3.5 Maxima to reach a high 12 N/A, but since the G35 is slightly quicker than the Maxima it may take a lot less time. Who knows someone could be already attempting this right now.

Go ahead and flame me, but this is an internet forum, and we are all here to seek information and to prove other people wrong.

Xander
Still on the financial hold list for a G35.

 

A set of 26" M&H ET Streets on 15" rims and a 5000rpm launch will get you mid 13s or better. Any car capable of 101mph traps, is capable of 13.3-13.4 with a 1.80 60'. A 1.80-1.85 60' on slicks is very possible with the power to weight ratio these cars have. It's all about the 60'. Add a lightweight 12lb Dynabatt battery, lightweight and narrower front tires and rims, pull the passenger seat, spare/jack, and run a 1/4 tank of 100 octane and see where that gets you. You'll basically remove 150-160lbs from the car. I'd say 13.2-13.3@103mph on a sea level track and cool dense air. A little extreme? Maybe, but when you're racing a car at the strip you're there to run as good as you can. I don't street race and I can't feel the difference when my car is 120lbs heavier, but in the 1/4 mile it makes a difference. I'll take advantage of that.


Dave,

Am I missing something or are 15'' rims not going to fit over our calipers? I thought I went through that with Tire Rack and Discount Tire b/f settling on Rage Rims (16") and Nitto Drag Radials.

A little advice...and I know you aren't running for office...but I was on, and still am a registered member, of Maxima.org when I got my 00 SE and now my wife has an 02 SE...I know how it gets over there and they have always tried to be a little more upscale here and a lot less intrusive attitude-wise in posts.

Try and come on a little softer and you will get a lot less criticism...b/c you do make some good points...it's just that you are hitting people over the head with them.

I am very curious to see how you do with your Auto...I want to see your 60' times b/c that was my curse all last year...do a search of all my posts some times (I only really post in the spring and fall when Drag Racing season is mint here in N.E. b/c I am snowmobiling from Dec.-April) and you will see how I went from High 14's with a green motor to 14.2 with just a 1/2 *** CAI from Frankencar (I know you'll know those butchers from Maxima.org) and snow tires down to 14.00 at 100+...the things that changed were not the 60' times, but the ability to spool up the engine quicker after 60' and wind it out and with more power due to mods it got my mph up from like 96 or so to 100.7 on one run...but the VDC/TCS always interfered.

Keep us posted and try not to come across like 20 grit sand paper so much.

 

how did this thread become a maxima/g35 battle???




is that even necessary...

 

I test fit my Mazda Millenia 15X6 rims with 225/50 Drag Radials on my 03 G35 sedan and they clear the caliper by 1/8". The Mazda Millenia rims weigh 11lbs! Total wheel/tire combo is around 34lbs or about 18lbs less for a total weight drop of 36lbs from the rear end. Yank the spare/jack and that's about a total loss of 70lbs from the car.

I am curious to see how the car is going to react to the 2.5" shorter rear tires compared to the fronts. I fear the ABS is going to freak out. Your 245/50R16 DRs are pretty close to the stock height. Do you have opinions on what the car might do. VDC will be turned off obviously.

Launching this car is a bit interesting. With a full tank of gas, it's pretty hard to come off the line without a slight bog. Even doing a 2400rpm flash stall doesn't seem to help things much. Then when the tank is in the 1/4 tank range, it will light them up pretty dang good the whole way through 1st. To me that's a good sign because I'll have significantly less weight in the rear at the track along with the added traction of DRs and 10% more gearing. I honestly don't know what kind of 60' I can get out of thing on the DRs. I'd love to see low 2.1s, but I think low 2.2s is more realistic. I'm hoping for 14.4s. My friend did 14.70@96mph bonestock with a 2.30 60', but he's heavy and his car wasn't optimized for racing. Like you, I only race in the spring/fall because the heat and humidity kill the performance of these cars plus I'm at 1100' above sea level which works against my car, marginally. I seek out 50-60 degree, low humidity, and is baro pressure when selecting my race days. My goal is always to run a best.

You are one of the drag racing pioneers in this Org and I'd love to see you post more because I think you really could help all of us out.

Haha..okay.

 

Wow...an 1/8 of an " clearance...is that safely enough? Is it one of those deals where if it clears at all that's good?

As far as the VDC/TCS issue with different front and back diameters it's no issue as long as you pull your VDC fuse which is up near your battery under the rectangluar snap on cover. When I ran the Nittos I had the snow tires up front and I never had an issue with our without the VDC on. If we autocrossed like that it may rear it's head, but straight line I honestly don't think the car cares that much. It mostly cares about slipping.

To do a burnout...I had to hit the gas and then a milisecond later hit the brakes...some times I would catch it, some times no...but it was a pita to learn that part too. I think overall...I dipped into the 2.1 range twice...and the drag radials hardly helped...but where they would help huge is with a 6 spd.

Thanks for the pioneering compliments...I did the same thing on the old SHO forums and I do the same thing on my snow mobile forums b/c I love racing...and this car honestly is overall more fun than my Mustang GT (300 RWHP and 355 RWTQ) b/c it's so smooth, handles unbelievably and has all the creature comforts, etc. I can nit pick 1-3 things about this car, but when anyone asks me what I think I say it's the closest thing to perfect!

I used to post here more, but then it got all about "spinners and dubs" last year so I just sat back and read what was relevant to my likes and needs and now I only post when it's something about mods pretty much. Plus I am snowmobiling for four months too.

 

Boss can you come down to the NIssan EVent in June? Hope you can make it.

Well maybe this is where our differences lie. I want to run the same on the track as I do on the street. That way when I spend $ on something I enjoy the benefit more than once a year. I don't want bragging rights I want streetable improvements that are noticeble and effective. My track time is spent to check my street mods and give me an idea of how effective I've been at permanently changing my car.

Obviously I Can drill 2000 holes in the frame and shoot my load one time a year with a no doors or glass run but then I should build a mustang and do 10's if I want to brag.

I don't mean to come across to harsh but you are very negative and overbearing suggesting nonone here knows how to drag when you aren't dragging for the same reasons some of us are and since I got my dragging tips from Bossho so i believe I know a little bit more than than the average bear. If you think you can get low 13's with an auto and no big modifications then more power to you. Let us know whne you get there/ Dragging with 100 octane - why not jet fuel and strip out everything including the dash LOL. I just don't get why you trash effective mods and then suggest spending all that same money on rims (I dont have a mazda to steal rims off) you'll use only at the track...You are better off with plenum and 10-15 hp that you can use all day every day. It'll drop you times by .4 or so seconds I guess without having to strip your car apart to enjoy the power.

 

I'm going to confirm that the clearance is enough. I don't think the alumninum caliper housing will expand much under thermal load plus it's the rear brakes which only provide 30% of the stopping power.

Quick question, how do I get that cover off to get to the fuse. The fuse box sits under a majority of that cover and I'd rather not break the clips holding the cover on.

Amen to that one.

 

That's where you and I see differently. Everything I do at the track takes about 20 minutes to change out. Jacking up the car, removing/installing wheels, yanking the spare, and adding some 100 octane takes little time. I too like to see the benefits of my modifications, but I also want to make my car run as good as it can. If it takes me 20 minutes to do so, I'll do it. I'm not talking about stripping the interior or stuff like that.


I've owned fast musclecars. They're fun and super easy to modify for big power however I've found it more rewarding to own and modify a slower sedan and make it perform at the top of it's game. Sure, I'm a hell of a lot slower than a lot of the cars out there, but people don't expect you to be halfway quick. A 10/11-second Mustang/F-Body is nothing really special now, but a G/Z running low 13s NA opens eyes. That's what's fun.


Like I've said three time now, I didn't say everyone in here was clueless to drag racing. I said the majority as a whole. Why do you keep on bringing this up? I would bet 95% of the guys that have gone to the track don't know what shallow/deep staging is, flash/brake stalling a torque converter, the significance of 60', calculating ideal shift points based off of dyno graphs, the significance of atmospheric conditions and elevation, correcting ET/MPH to density altitude, etc. Most guys go out there and just run and that's fine, however it offers little insight and information on how to get these cars to perform at their best.

[/QUOTE]
If you think you can get low 13's with an auto and no big modifications then more power to you. [QUOTE]

Low 13s in the auto aren't going to happen and I never said it would. The auto lacks the ability to launch at 5000+ rpms which is needed to land a 1.8/1.9 60'. The only way to launch an auto that hard would require a very high stall torque converter which would make the car close to undriveable on the street because of all the slip. The 6MT with simple bolt-ons and slicks should be able to do it. There are 350Zs with basic bolt-ons and slicks doing high 12s and bonestock 350Z on slicks doing 13.4s. The G sedan is only giving up 150lbs to these cars.

1) Jet fuel won't work. 100 octane has been shown to gain 8whp in these cars
2) DRs/rims were left over from my Maxima. The setup cost me $260 total and will last well over 120 passes. The setup improves gearing and torque multiplication by 10%, they're significantly lighter, and they increase traction. 60' determine ET and I won't want a lack of traction holding me back from the best ETs possible. Nearly everyone at my track uses track tires, why should I be any different? I spent years racing on street tires and they just don't hook.
3) You're not saying the 8-10whp you gain from the plenum/spacer is going to drop your ET by .4 or so are you? That kind of power will drop you ET by around .1-.15 seconds and gain 1 to 1.5mph. Its worthy mod though.