hello, I've decided I want to buy these wheels: https://www.elementwheels.com/prodde...od=gf61995sil2 and I would like to know if 9.5 is too wide or not? and what offset should I choose? I would like to be flush with the fender well. Also, I was going to get some coilovers as well and drop it pretty low so I want to make sure I don't have problems with rubbing and turning radius. I was thinking 19x9.5 with a 30mm offset all around the car?? and for tires I was thinking 245/40s? Thanks for your help.

 

It depends on how low and how much poke you want. +30 is pretty aggressive. If it was me I'd go +35 or +40 and maybe a 9" wheel. But I like the flush look. Not hella flush lol

 

I would like to go as low as to cover all the wheel gap and maybe a little lower than that. I agree with you I also don't like the hella flush and massive poke. If I were to have a bit of poke that would be okay but not much, but I'd rather prefer to not have to stretch the tires if I do go a little lower. So your saying its better to go with 9 inch wheel with 35 offset? Those wheels in the link are only available in 8.5 or 9.5 tho... would it maybe be better to go with 8.5 with 30 offset? how much would the 9.5s with 30 poke? I just want that deep concave look.

 

I'd go with a 9.5" wheel and +35 offset. When lowered down to no wheel gap you'll have just a little bit of poke maybe 3 or 4 mm and a mild stretch on the tires enough that you shouldn't rub if you want to go lower. This is assuming you won't be running any negative camber.

 

Here's a good square fitment thread on myG37
http://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-s...post-here.html

 

I completely forgot about the camber... would it be necessary to get a camber kit? or could I just get an alignment to correct toe?since the coilovers im going to get have front adjustable camber maybe just for rear? I've heard toe is the biggest killer of tires... On the other hand, I called about the wheels and the guy told me the 9.5s won't clear the front brakes because they are made for the rears only...is this possible?

 

It's possible that the 9.5' may have too much concave to it for the front. It would be difficult to tell without test fitting. If that's the case ask about using the 9" with +30 offset it's about the same poke. When I lowered down to no wheel gap i had over -2.0 negative camber. The tire slant was definitely noticeable. Your right that toe is more important for tire wear. But running that much camber would eventually wear the insides of the tires sooner. My guess is about 25% - 30% faster than normal. What coils will you be using? The rear camber kit isn't too expensive but more of a pita to install. There's a write up somewhere on how to go about it.

 

Thanks for the link. I forgot about that one.

 

Camber isn't adjustable through the coilovers on the G platform. Coilover companies sell you on "camber plates" but these are only for some of their coilovers. The pics they show are a model that has camber plates but if you ask to see a pic of a specific G35 coilover it will have a different upper strut mount plate.

If you drop on coils you should get the F&R camber/toe kit IMO.

 

Really? I was going to get BC coils and in the description it says that the camber is adjustable..If not then that's disappointing but either way I don't feel like buying a camber kit and then pulling out my hair trying to install it.. guess I will just have to deal with the tire wear for now, maybe I'll get it some day but first I'll see how bad the wear is. I think I'd be able to get 20k+ miles off the tires? Finally, Is there a way to calculate camber angle to tire wear?

 

Some tire wear does occur from camber, but it's not usually very severe. Instead, when altering the suspension you will most likely get some toe. This is the killer on tires. If you get an alignment and get any toe angle out, imo you don't need a camber kit. Unless you are at some crazy camber angle.

 

Yes, I agree with you. I will just get the toe zeroed out and deal with the camber. I think I will have a little over -2 all around so whatever, and since I have a square setup I can just rotate the tires.

 

Depends how low you drop on the coils, but being able to do true rotations is a plus and toe is the quick killer, camber is a slower grind. Get it set up and just monitor your wear over the first 5k miles, maybe you'll be pleasantly surprised