We used Both at LOC & a line driver. I am not sure about the color of the wires & am unable to look in my car tonight...i'll get in there & look at it when i get a chance.

 

Thanks. Using the service manual I thought we tapped the right lines but it's not working. I look forward to your response. Thanks again

anyone else tap the wires before the bose amp? Can you tell me the color of the wires you tapped? Thanks

 

ok...you can thank my understanding girlfriend who will let me crawl around in my trunk taking pictures of wires and then talk about it online when i am supposed to be spending time with her.

but here is what i found. if you look at the picture where you can see the entire speaker (far left) you will see the red wire coming in from the right. this is the line we ran. we tapped into one of the red and one of the green wires going into the sub in the rear deck.

I hope this helps!!!!

 

tap after the amp


heres a neat trick if you want to verify the right wires. Take your newly tapped wires, strip the ends and attach the - to the - end of a battery and the + to the + end of the battery. Speaker you are trying to tap will crackle. A simple AA works fine. If nothing comes out, your connections need to be checked.

Ps - i tapped the rear door speakers after the amp to get a L and R signal. I used a MTX 600.1 mono amp and I didnt use any LOC, just went staight from the taps to the amp. Worked great and the bass was clean and tremendously strong... untill i burnt another sub. I learned how to wire this car, next on the list proper tuning .... sigh

 

gymcshoe,

Stanfna is correct, you want to tap after the amp, I have the bose wiring diagram for our cars. I tapped the wires that lead to the front door subwoofers (middle amp plug facing rear of car). These wires are the thicker ones RH(+)=green/RH(-)=red....LH(+)=black/LH(-)=white. I will be happy to send the audio diagram to your email, don't know how to do it through G35 driver. (8mb)- hope this helps

 

evilMonkey,

I already had my amp from a previous set-up (fairly new), kicker sub= $149, Raamat sound deadening throughout= $140wood-fiberglass resin for sub box=$100, LOC= $75, power/signal cables+connectors= $72, labor= free, grand total around $536

 

For those of you who installed an amp, where did you find the best place to route the Positive wire from the battery? I'm about to tackle this task and this is the only thing holding me back. Thanks!

 

SOME POINTERS:

1. I have installed 0 gauge wire from the front to the back. The crappy part is getting it to come through but all you need to do is cut up the rubber grommet and then seal it up really good so it doesnt leak.. From there down teh passenger side panels, there is enough room to sneak 0 gauge or ANY GAUGE wire to the back!!

2. I have tapped my mono kicker amp BEFORE the BOSE SUB amp, not after, and I did not use a LINE CONVERTOR at all.

3. As with all CRAPPY BOSE stereos, the bass is really pumped at low volumes and then becomes more linear at high volumes, so for temporary i have installed a remote bass **** to adjust it with teh volume. When weather permits, i would go with something to clean up the signal (ie. MTX RE-Q, Cleansweep, etc)...

Hope that helps!!

 

Thanks! I'll check it out tonight

 

Im about to install my sub With a LOC and i found this Pinout in the Service manual. should be pretty helpful for tapping into the factory sub signal.