There's a member by the name of 4080 that custom makes those boxes. PM him.

I think this should be stickied in the Audio DIY section! I've been looking all over the forum for instructions on installing an aftermarket amp/sub, and the search feature in this forum isn't the best around!

How much harder would a 2-gauge power wire be than a 4-gauge? I wanted to run the 500/1 amp and add a 300/4 down the road.

The larger gauge shouldn't be any harder to run if you get a flexible piece. I'd get a distribution block since you plan to have 2 amps and use the correct gauge to branch from the distribution block to the amps.

I'm happy to see that dr6 tapped into the Bose head unit signal BEFORE it reaches the Bose amp. Tapping into the speaker leads AFTER the Bose amp will add unwanted Bose equalizing.

For you guys that have an installer do this install for you, make sure they tap into the signal BEFORE the amp. They probably don't know about the sound EQ shaping that the Bose amp does. I have come across a couple of installers who planned to just tap into the rear 6x9 signals before they were advised of the shortcomings.

sweet setup man

Thanks for write up, made my install yesterday quick and simple...

can someone with Mod power move this thread to DIY section?? A lot more people will find this wonderful DIY! Great write up!

Where did you mount the amp?

Not sure who u r asking, but i mounted mine to back of the rear seat...

I had my setup installed at a Circuit City. I think they ran the signal from the app. Reason being was the signal was just not strong enough from the HU. The first time I got the car back when they were done, it was clearly not loud enough (for the apps that I had installed). The signal was weak even when I turned up the app gain. When they went post bose amp, it was much better. however, there is that EQ issue. Mainly I hear it in the mid range area on some vocal's. And only depending on which notes they hit. most the time its ok at regular listening levels.

I have an 03' Sedan. I really need to change out the HU, but the cost is pissing me off.
I have a question for any one that has at least 500W RMS of amps in there ride. Do you lose any power when your bass is up a lot? Meaning from the car itself. Such as hitting the gas, and feeling any jerkiness to the flow? At normal 50+ MPH speeds I don't notice it. only at low city speeds does it seem to be there. I have a total of about 1400W RMS in Amps. I have a 3 Farad cap (which should be sufficient for 3,000 Watts peak). I noticed that at heavy hits, the voltage goes do the low 12v and can go to 11.8v at worst. Normal voltage reads about 14.2-14.5v. I don't know if that is a lot. Maybe a bigger battery, or alternator? Or is even a bigger cap in order?

Nope, i don't have those problems. I have about (450+500+150=1100) amps of power, plus a car computer, along with a 1 farad cap, and no problems.

I do run some pretty heavy wire back to my amps (0 gauge), along with a good grounding kit in the engine bay to preclude any power loss along those lines, so maybe that has helped?

Also, I have an 05; do you know if the alternator is stronger in the 05's than the 03's? Just a guess.

What wiring gauge are you using?

I believe 4 from the battery, one 2 way fuse box (it was a Tsunami Wiring kit for 1500 Watt systems I think).

Upgrade your "big 3".

A battery will do nothing for the problem you're having.

If you want more bass, have CC tap into the signal before the amp again and get a line amplifier to increase the voltage to the amps. Since it sounds like you have more than one amp, a line driver would really benefit you. The Bose EQing is bad news for good sound.

What kind and how many amps do you have? Do they accept a balanced input signal? If not, that may be part of the problem.