G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion - DIY: Add a sub to your Bose equipped G35 Coupe

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They accept both inputs (Hi and Low). They used the low at first. And it just wasn't loud at all. Moderate at best. They then broke the low level plug and then used a Tsunami line level converter (I don't know if its adjustable) to fix it and it worked better. So they must be coming from pre amp now that I think about it. I think i messed up the first explanation, my bad. So ok, they used a line level converter post HD pre bose amp. So, I now get a strong signal to the amps.

I have 2 amps, both DUB Audio (I believe its Audiobahn) DUB Mag Audio DUB1004 100x4 and DUB Mag Audio DUB2802 1000x1. I have 2 10" Audiobahn 600w subs in a front ported bandpass box. I also have a Power Acoustik PCNC-2.0F cap. I have MB Quart in the doors.

I was beginning to think that my battery wasn't strong enough to push the amperage, or my alternator is weak. I've had 4 amps in my last Honda and never even saw even a slight power drop in lights or anything. Without a cap.

Thanks for your input guys. and I forgot to mention that your install

i just had mine installed....the only problem is my amp is always on whenever my car is on......so i called me installer for an on and off switch and he said it was a bad idea cuz whenever i hit the switch i ll hear a loud pop....but i dont always want me amp on

The bose amp has a turn on lead.

TOP-NOTCH DIY!! thank you, that setup is exactly what i want except i might go for the 250/1 and a 10W3

i will install it myself with this thread printed out and in my hands

Wow this thread was hard to find! It's now 320 in the morning!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TIRE_SMOKE96

Wow this thread was hard to find! It's now 320 in the morning!

what did you search for? try amp under seat bose?

Got a question from the install pic. Just trying to get all the install in my head before I go tearing into my G. In the far left there is a telephone looking cord and a set of two wires, what are those?

Plus in the wiring pic I do not see the purple wire, was it not connected? I see 4 tapping connectors though.

Seems easy enough, nice writeup...

The phone plug is likely the bass boost control line and the other is likely speaker leads.

Quote:

Originally Posted by caelric

Very nice work, and awesome write-up. Whenever I see a good write up like this, I wish I had done the same with my install. I've got a 10w6v2 in a 4080 box, with a 500/1 pushing it, same as you. I've got very different signal connections, due to the complete removal of the Bose amp on my setup, but I've got an 05 (with no bluetooth) so I could do that. Not sure what the solution for the 06'2 is.

Dave

so many questions... can anyone help? i'm working on a 2006 coupe, prem w/ bose.

Q1. will replacing the bose amp mess up bluetooth functionality??
Q2. is disabling the rear 6x9's after putting in a box pretty much consensus?
Q3. for the sub's amp's RCA inputs, you should only convert one pair of +/- to be converted, right? either Right or Left from the rear, right?

i eventually want to get to a 500/5 pushing aftermarket speakers and a sub

but what i can afford now is adding a 4080 being pushed by an amp from my old car. i'd rather avoid installation fees, but i'm finding i have no idea what i'm doing with this g!

Quote:

Originally Posted by estiel

Q1. will replacing the bose amp mess up bluetooth functionality??

I don't have this answer since my car doesn't have Bluetooth.

Q2. is disabling the rear 6x9's after putting in a box pretty much consensus?

Yes, if you add a sub since that is what the 6x9's are supposed to be. I prefer to actually remove the 6x9's from the car altogether to allow more bass into the interior from the trunk, but you have to remove a lot of interior panels, so it may not be as feasable for you to do it, depending on your skill level.

Q3. for the sub's amp's RCA inputs, you should only convert one pair of +/- to be converted, right? either Right or Left from the rear, right?

that depends on the configuration capabilities of your amp. Tap into the signal wires BEFORE they go into the Bose amp.

Thanks Sean! i'm buying the ebay service manual ($5, looks like a pirated copy), i guess that will answer all my wiring questions... that SpeakerWire -> RCA was throwing me for a loop, but i did a bunch of research and think i got it all figured out!

thanks again man.

Bumb for a nice write up!

that **** looks hella neat...and theres still room... im about to do this when i run into money again...money is running away from me again haha

Quote:

Originally Posted by estiel

Here is what I have put together from other posts on Driver.

Quote:

BOSE WIRING COLORS AND SPEAKER SIZES

Factory speaker harness wiring colors

Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver

Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver

Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver

Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow

Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White

Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green

Head unit output colors

The (+) are all on the same side of the connector.

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple

Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver

BOSE SPEAKER SIZES

COUPE

The tweeters are exactly 5/8" deep and about 1-5/8" in diameter (at the largest point).

You don't have to take the whole door off to get to them to look (you would to disconnect the wires). Just pop off the clips that hold the black plastic panel down.

I also know that Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 tweeters fit, as do the tweeters from the MB Quart PCE 216 set.

With the lower door speakers, the stock measurements are: 6-3/8" in dia. with 2.5" of depth.

I think just about any 6.5" speaker will fit, but holes will have to be drilled (Roll up the window first) for any.

The rear side speakers are EXACTLY the same as the lower door speakers. Same part number and everything. Strangely there is no tweeter (or even a cone) on any speaker in the back. See my other thread about possible mounting depths. I made a spacer but there were other great ideas on how to mount better speakers back there.

The 6" X 9" speakers in the rear deck are: 6.5" X 9-3/16" and 3-3/8" deep. Again, I think any 6X9 will fit here.

These are all standard six openings and any install shop can easily do this. If you are doing it yourself, I recommend buying a new 3/16" or 1/8" titanium (for metal drilling, I used Bosch brand from Home Depot, a couple bucks) drill bit. Just drills alot easier through metal in the doors.

As for the screw hole dimensions... just drill. Infiniti uses a weird 3 hole set up for their 6.5" mid ranges that you won't ever match up exactly.

The tweeter will be held down by the stock metal bracket. If your new tweeters are a little loose in the bracket, wrap them in weather stripping or something similar.

The 6" X 9" speakers are standard mounts in the four "corners" of the speaker.

SEDAN

The fronts can fit the same 6 1/2 inch separates as the coupe. I thought the rear door speakers were 6 1/2 also, but they are smaller - perhaps 5 1/4 to 6 - which doesn't really matter because you'll have to make spacers anyway. My sedan has a pair of 6 1/2 coaxials in the door.

The sedans bith the Bose have an 8 inch sub. IMO, don't bother replacing it. Just get a bigger sub in the trunk.

I just got done installing an Eclipse amp and 10" sub following the instructions in this thread....man, what a difference! I was going to swap out the front door speakers, but the front stage is still pretty good.

Thanks to dr6 and gilley for the info.