Bose bypass or go thru Bose to new amp
#1
02-18-2018, 08:39 PM
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Bose bypass or go thru Bose to new amp
I see it has been discussed on here but I got conflicting info I read on the forum telling me I could bypass the factory amp and use the existing speaker wires so I wouldn't need to run new wires to the 6.5s and 6.9s the post said u are bypassing the amp completely leave it unplugged or get rid of it a guy from a local speaker shop said u have to go thru the Bose amp to the new amp said you can't bypass the amp said it so cofidently who is right?
#3
02-19-2018, 01:29 AM
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#4
02-19-2018, 01:42 AM
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Heres a thread I found with some info to what u need to do. Theres a bunch of other ones too...just gotta find em.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
#5
02-19-2018, 02:40 AM
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Heres a thread I found with some info to what u need to do. Theres a bunch of other ones too...just gotta find em.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
#6
02-19-2018, 03:00 AM
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#7
02-19-2018, 11:09 AM
I see it has been discussed on here but I got conflicting info I read on the forum telling me I could bypass the factory amp and use the existing speaker wires so I wouldn't need to run new wires to the 6.5s and 6.9s the post said u are bypassing the amp completely leave it unplugged or get rid of it a guy from a local speaker shop said u have to go thru the Bose amp to the new amp said you can't bypass the amp said it so cofidently who is right?
But, if you're keeping the bose headunit, keep in mind that you'll need to replace the bose amp with one that can accept a differential-balanced signal. That limits you to JL Audio (all their amps take differential-balanced signals) and a select few others that vary by model (you'll have to research quite a bit, since most don't), not brand. If you replace the headunit, you can go with whatever amp you want.
With the coupe, there's a fair amount of space to put the new amp in the old amp's location, and if you can orient the amp right, you might only have to run the power and ground wire, with everything else meeting up with the new amp. You'll probably have to drill a new hole in the factory amp bracket, but that's easy. Even if you don't mount the amp here, you can can extend the audio signal wires from the factory amp location to the new location so you don't have to run wires through the car completely.
Last edited by Wrathernaut; 02-19-2018 at 11:13 AM.
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#8
02-19-2018, 11:51 AM
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Find a new installer. This one doesn't know what they're talking about here.
But, if you're keeping the bose headunit, keep in mind that you'll need to replace the bose amp with one that can accept a differential-balanced signal. That limits you to JL Audio (all their amps take differential-balanced signals) and a select few others that vary by model (you'll have to research quite a bit, since most don't), not brand. If you replace the headunit, you can go with whatever amp you want.
With the coupe, there's a fair amount of space to put the new amp in the old amp's location, and if you can orient the amp right, you might only have to run the power and ground wire, with everything else meeting up with the new amp. You'll probably have to drill a new hole in the factory amp bracket, but that's easy. Even if you don't mount the amp here, you can can extend the audio signal wires from the factory amp
location to the new location so you don't have to run wires through the car completely.
But, if you're keeping the bose headunit, keep in mind that you'll need to replace the bose amp with one that can accept a differential-balanced signal. That limits you to JL Audio (all their amps take differential-balanced signals) and a select few others that vary by model (you'll have to research quite a bit, since most don't), not brand. If you replace the headunit, you can go with whatever amp you want.
With the coupe, there's a fair amount of space to put the new amp in the old amp's location, and if you can orient the amp right, you might only have to run the power and ground wire, with everything else meeting up with the new amp. You'll probably have to drill a new hole in the factory amp bracket, but that's easy. Even if you don't mount the amp here, you can can extend the audio signal wires from the factory amp
location to the new location so you don't have to run wires through the car completely.
I was was hoping you would reply,you seem to be involved in most of these posts. I'm replacing the head unit and the guy from the speaker shop is not my installer was just chatting him up while looking at speakers. I've always done my own although it's been years and technology has changed I have just 2 questions. if I'm replacing the head unit w aftermarket and want to bypass the Bose amp I believe I need a line out converter to avoid running rca's, also I'm replacing all the factory soeakers and don't want to run new wires to them. So far I have the alpine ilx 007 and a 1300nex deciding which one I wanna put in this I have a a jl 10w6v3 4080 box jbl gto609c for the amp I'm deciding between the alpine pdx90/5, jl rd900/5, pg ti21000.5, pg sx1100.5 or mb quart oa1100.5 do you have an experience with any of these? The first 4 are all close in price the mb I can get for less than half? Still deciding on the rear 6.5 and 6.9s and for the line out Conv can I use the lc6i or do I need the lc7i? Ok back to my original questions I have never installed a line out converter but Im pretty sure I unplug and cut the harness to the Bose match the outputs to the amp for the front and backs and for the inputs I match the front and backs to the loc and run the rca to the amp and connect the remote turn on to the amp. Where do I get the imputs to run to the loc to run the rca to the sub channel of the amp or do I just connect the front and rear and just run 3 sets of rca w no additional input to the sub? Does the sub get its input from the front and back and just convert it or is there something I'm missing or don't understand or am I totally wrong about the loc? Thanks in advance for your help
Last edited by Melo5812; 02-19-2018 at 01:05 PM.
#11
02-19-2018, 12:51 PM
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#12
02-19-2018, 05:53 PM
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im not I don't think you understand if u run rca cables to a new amp u cannot use the writing that's already running to the doors and back seat
#14
02-19-2018, 07:14 PM
Running RCAs to the trunk is almost trivial. Just run through the center stack, use a long screwdriver to raise the carpet along the driveshaft hump, and run some fish tape or a stick you can tie the wires to and pull them through to under the rear seat. From there you can go under the trunk carpet to your amp location. You can run RCAs to the trunk and then use the factory wiring from the trunk to the speakers just fine. Just tap into it at the stock amp location.
#15
02-19-2018, 07:29 PM
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Running RCAs to the trunk is almost trivial. Just run through the center stack, use a long screwdriver to raise the carpet along the driveshaft hump, and run some fish tape or a stick you can tie the wires to and pull them through to under the rear seat. From there you can go under the trunk carpet to your amp location. You can run RCAs to the trunk and then use the factory wiring from the trunk to the speakers just fine. Just tap into it at the stock amp location.