Have people been using clean sweap to add amps to their systems or is there some other way of getting a low level output since the stock head unit doesn't have pre-amp outs? I would also like to know if anyone has added 4080's sub without upgrading any of the other speakers and what was the result. I realize there are a million different amp/ sub combos so if you could include the type of amp sub that would be helpful. Thanks for the help!

LB

 

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Searching will be helpful, but there's a raging debate at present about the "right" way to do this.

The HU doesn't have RCA jacks... but the signal going from the HU to the OEM amp is most certainly a "preamplified" signal (by definition, it hasn't been amplified yet).

I've tested this signal and found it flat and utterly lacking in EQ other than a slight auto-loudness slant at low volumes.

If you use an amp which will take balanced inputs, it will probably work with no converter at all. If you need a converter, it will be a Soundgate or Peripheral adapter which takes balanced (+/-/gnd) signals to single-ended (+/gnd) signals.

The CS will work, and it's been used... but it's overkill. Spend that on better gear overall.

You probably want to find a shop that's experienced at OEM integration.

 

Let me make sure I've got this right. The JL 500/5, for example, says it accepts "balanced differential" signals on it's RCA inputs. I take it this means it will accept balanced signals (+/-/gnd). Now, these inputs are still RCA, so a LOC is still necessary, yes?

So the only way you can get away with not having a LOC of any kind for any reason is to have an amp that takes speaker-wire inputs that accepts balanced signals.

 

M, no.

I have taken the JL "slash" amps and connected them to balanced outs of OEM HUs and they've worked fine. Most of the ones I've done are Acuras - the Infinitis measure the same except for being higher in amplitude (the Acura's are pretty low-level).

It has to do with the shield of the RCA input on the JL NOT being directly chassis grounded internally. The amps where it's directly chassis grounded - like the Diamonds - don't work this way and give engine noise.

 

I guess my question is, how do you convert your input into an RCA cable to hook to the amp? The PAC AOEM NIS2? Or a LOC? I still have to convert the physical plugs on the HU output/amp input whetherit's a differential, balanced, single-ended or not.

My orignial plan was to use a PAC AOEM NIS2.

 

Splice a quality RCA and hook it direct to the +/- outputs of the HU. You can even buy RCA's adaptors for use with standard wire.

 

I take a 1-M to 2-F RCA "Y" adapter and hack the male end off, and then strip it back.

That lets me run a standard male to male RCA from the point of access to the new aftermarket amp.

The Ixos RCA's are nice to do this with. Anything twisted pair is cake, though.

Audio Control for years couldn't get people to run high level or balanced signals into their processors even though the manual clearly said that it could be done. I still think the best thing they could have done would have been to include RCA pigtails in every box to make it easy AND to make it look "the right way".

 

Alright. So (for example), you have your "Y" RCA splitter (in this case it's acting more as a joiner), with the base, and the two branches. You connect the two wires running from your FRONT LEFT speaker to the two branches of the "Y" splitter, you connect the base of the Y splitter to one plug of your two-wire RCA cable that is running to the "Front" inputs on your amp. Take the two wires going to your FRONT RIGHT speaker wire and connect them to the two branches of another "Y" splitter. Connect the base of the second Y splitter to the second plug on the RCA cable running to your amp's "Front" inputs.

All in all if you were doing four speakers you would have 4 splitters/joiners, merging 8 speaker wires down to four RCAs.

It is really convenient that I do not have to take the dash apart.

Thanks for the info, I guess sometimes I make things more difficult than they should be (rocket science? )

 

I didn't explain it correctly, sorry, let me try again.

I cut the male end off where they're joined, and I get two 6" pieces with female ends. The 1-M to 2-F "Y"s are joined at the 1-M end, so cutting it off gives me two female ends, for two channels.

The "Y"s are just the only way I know to get female RCA ends on cables.

 

Am I correct that this adapter from JL would work? If I purchased two of these, I would connect one to the 4 front +/- HU outputs and the other to the 4 rear +/- HU outputs. This would then plug directly into my 500/5 and I can generate a separate subwoofer signal at the amp. Correct?

 

Looks like the money maker. If your amp was further away than the length of those adapters you could get some RCA female-female couplers and hook up some RCA cables too. Gonna go look for a retailer of these things, nice find.

 

Those JL adapters run $15-25 each. Do yourself a favor and just go to radioshack and get RCA plugs and get a piece of wire and use a wire tap to get the signals from the factory wire harness. I've personally done this so it's not hard and will cost you roughly $5-7 for the RCA plugs (4 in a pack) and wire taps.

 

What happens if you split the wires going to the bose amp and send one set to these adapters and on to an aftermarket amp, and you send the other set to the bose amp? Could you run a subwoofer and maintain your stock bose amp & stock bose speakers? Too little/much impedence on the speaker wires for the stock HU? Too low of a signal for the bose amp and/or aftermarket amp? I know, I know, why would you keep the bose stuff. Just humor me and explain what would happen?

 

This would work, but I hate using the crappy RCA ends.

And I'd always use females, so that you can plug in any RCA you want.