DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Removal
#196
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
Responding to find this thread again for reference soon. I'm tired of being chased around by a small prop-plane, so have ordered new bearings.
I wanted to get new hubs to keep down time to a minimum, but the hubs have gone up in price since the original post. They're now around $180 each.
I found these hubs from Febest on Amazon for $81ea, http://amzn.com/B00DMA5MW6 Are they worth using, or should I just re-use my hubs?
I wanted to get new hubs to keep down time to a minimum, but the hubs have gone up in price since the original post. They're now around $180 each.
I found these hubs from Febest on Amazon for $81ea, http://amzn.com/B00DMA5MW6 Are they worth using, or should I just re-use my hubs?
#197
I've just reused by hubs. I tossed each on a machine and checked for wobble and runout and were pretty straight, so I reused them and got the same amount of miles out of my front bearings as the originals (80K) so I don't think it really mattered for me between going new or reusing.
I have another bad front bearing. I'm reusing the hub.
Unless someone can give me a reason other than excessive runout, or physical defects, I don't see how these can go bad....especially when the failure mode of each bearing I've replaced is usually internal galling and none have had any wobble.
I have another bad front bearing. I'm reusing the hub.
Unless someone can give me a reason other than excessive runout, or physical defects, I don't see how these can go bad....especially when the failure mode of each bearing I've replaced is usually internal galling and none have had any wobble.
#198
^Those AMZN ones come from Estonia, tho lol My rear pass one is making a jet sound, so going to be replacing it this weekend, hopefully. Since I don't have a press, I was going to use my 3 ton jack up against a firm upper platform lol Kidding. Probably going to hit up a local shop to press the bearing on.Here's a good video on how to remove the bearing without leaving the race on:
The following users liked this post:
obsdnoblivion (05-16-2016)
#199
Did the deed today. Very simple/straightforward job overall. I did the rear pass side, so no exhaust troubles. Unbolted the axle and slid right off. Everything else was even easier. Hub was frozen in, so I threaded the bolts and hammered on them for a few. Pressed the old POS bearing out via the method posted above (large bearing separator + harbor freight POS 3-jaw puller). Broke the tip of the jaw puller (couldn't handle that torque, yo), so had to use a big nut/washer to apply the pressure on top of the race driver instead. Popped right off, then drove to Firestone and hustled them to press the new one on for $20 (PepSuckers wanted $109...). Once on, the assembly only took about 20-30 minutes. No more jet sounds from the rear and she's driving like a G35 should again, minus some front end clunks that I don't want to get into just yet lol Thanks for the thread and resources.
Some vids of the old POS bearing:
https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_113126.mp4
https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_130947.mp4
Some vids of the old POS bearing:
https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_113126.mp4
https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_130947.mp4
The following users liked this post:
ProBballChamp (09-05-2016)
#200
^Those AMZN ones come from Estonia, tho lol My rear pass one is making a jet sound, so going to be replacing it this weekend, hopefully. Since I don't have a press, I was going to use my 3 ton jack up against a firm upper platform lol Kidding. Probably going to hit up a local shop to press the bearing on.Here's a good video on how to remove the bearing without leaving the race on: DIY: G35 Rear Wheel Bearing Separation From Hub - YouTube
I hate buying a tool I hope to only have to use one time, though. But if I keep the car much longer (I'm at 282K), I may have to change that bearing a fourth time and use this bearing separator again.
Last edited by obsdnoblivion; 05-16-2016 at 09:12 AM.
#201
Man I knew there had to be a tool available to do this. I borrowed a puller from Autozone and I was trying to remove that stupid ring retainer from of the hub I took off the rear left and the puller kept slipping off. I'm going to Harbor Freight today for one of those bearing separators. I hope they have some in the store. And I hope this is the LAST time I change this bearing. (This is the htird time.) I hate buying a tool I hope to only have to use one time, though. But if I keep the car much longer (I'm at 282K), I may have to change that bearing a fourth time.
#203
The front hub/bearing is a single unit sold together, unlike the rears. I would recommend purchasing the parts form rockauto.com, good prices. Timken recently stopped carrying the NTN branded bearing, now I believe moog sells the NTN bearing, but I'm not sure.
#204
Hey guys, my driver rear wheel is making excessive kind of wobbly continues noise. I jacked the car up last month and found a slight wobble play in the driver rear, passenger rear is fine. My question is, how long can I keep driving with bad wheel bearing before it gives up?
I already ordered the 2 Timken bearings from rockauto since I thought it will be a good idea to replace in pairs especially since it is a RWD. I could not find any that comes with the whole wheel hub assembly as well as most of you noted.
I already ordered the 2 Timken bearings from rockauto since I thought it will be a good idea to replace in pairs especially since it is a RWD. I could not find any that comes with the whole wheel hub assembly as well as most of you noted.
#205
Bearing rust welded to arm assm???
anyone out there have trouble getting the bearing-hub assm off of the Suspension arm after removing the four bearing bolts? I thnk my assembly is so rusty but I think this might have adhered itself to be suspension arm assembly. anyone else have this problem? does anyone have any recommendations?
#206
anyone out there have trouble getting the bearing-hub assm off of the Suspension arm after removing the four bearing bolts? I thnk my assembly is so rusty but I think this might have adhered itself to be suspension arm assembly. anyone else have this problem? does anyone have any recommendations?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...p-snx9b9yCnJ1A
The following users liked this post:
ProBballChamp (09-05-2016)
#207
Did the deed today. Very simple/straightforward job overall. I did the rear pass side, so no exhaust troubles. Unbolted the axle and slid right off. Everything else was even easier. Hub was frozen in, so I threaded the bolts and hammered on them for a few. Pressed the old POS bearing out via the method posted above (large bearing separator + harbor freight POS 3-jaw puller). Broke the tip of the jaw puller (couldn't handle that torque, yo), so had to use a big nut/washer to apply the pressure on top of the race driver instead. Popped right off, then drove to Firestone and hustled them to press the new one on for $20 (PepSuckers wanted $109...). Once on, the assembly only took about 20-30 minutes. No more jet sounds from the rear and she's driving like a G35 should again, minus some front end clunks that I don't want to get into just yet lol Thanks for the thread and resources.
Last edited by ProBballChamp; 09-05-2016 at 11:45 AM.
#208
#209
#210
easy way to remove the bearing stuck to the spindle/knuckle:
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html
just bolt that up and slide the hammer hard, the assembly will come off.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html
just bolt that up and slide the hammer hard, the assembly will come off.