Quick question. If I am lowered will I need to raise my car back up to get the bolts out. I have a spring compressed but I have no way to get in the springs.

Also, and this might sound stupid, I may just be over thinking it….. The camber arms are labeled L and R. AKA Left and Right. Now, Is this from the perspective of staring at the car, or is it like most things when I'm sitting in the drivers seat. AKA the L is for the Drivers side and the R is for the Passengers side. Please any help is great.

bump on how to get the bolts out with the coil overs in. Should I just drop the strut?

^Which bolts? L=driver's side and R=passenger's side

Sorry the bolts that connect the a arm to the body. I have coilovers, so the spring compresser won't go into the spring. The slot is to small. Do I have loosen the spring all the way aka raise the coilovers as tall as it can go? Or should I just drop the strut. The instructions say to use a spring compresser to get the bolts out of the a arm...

I would just drop the struts since its only 3 nuts.

Yea keeps it fairly simple. Other than that it seems like a SUPER EASY install. Then to read how to adjust the camber….. I understand the rears not the fronts to much.

Done. I had to literally drop the strut. 3 bolts on top and the one below.

Bumping an old thread here, but I've gotten way too intimate with my front and rear suspension components in the last week. This isn't even a love-hate relationship. I've used a myriad of tools including, but not limited to a sawzall, torch, mallet, hammer, punch, press, and breaker bar.

Over the course of several days, I've installed BC Type BR coilovers and a SPC rear toe / camber kit on my 2006 G35X sedan. The last on my list to install is the SPC front camber kit with the upper control arms. As with any 9 year old car that grew up in the Rust Belt, it seems like every bolt and nut has wanted to latch on to its neighboring metal and hold on for dear life.

My question is... has anyone else had difficult with the nut on the upper control arm? This is the nut held on with a cotter pin. For me, the cotter pin broke and even after trying to grind off the affected area, the nut remains.

http://s71.photobucket.com/user/shaw..._5771.jpg.html

Can I cut off the original control arm and drill out the bolt? I'm not planning to go back to the OEM control arm...

Thanks in advance!

Are you having trouble turning the bolt or is it just spinning the ball joint?

When I did mine I don't remember having trouble with the ball joint but one of the pivot bolts broke off on one side-luckily I was able to free the remaining stud I think it had enough exposed to grab with vise grips or I could have been in real trouble trying to get it out.