03 sedan brake pad install
#1
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
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03 sedan brake pad install
Is it a bad idea to go with a set of ceramic pads over the oem pads for a sedan? The oem pads have lasted maybe 15k each time and I'm considering going with a premium ceramic pad (due to the dust) that your typical autoparts store sells. Is this a bad idea? I'm going to have the oem rotors turned.
Last edited by ajg35; 09-09-2007 at 09:47 PM.
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#4
Originally Posted by sliderg35
I like the Hawk HPS - great pads, no dust and a little more linear feel when you apply the brakes.
I installed the Hawk HPS and while the onset of braking is still quicker than I am used used to, the amount of braking is easier to modulate -- as you say, "more linear." It feels more like the RS-6 than the other three.
As far as the claims I have seen that the sudden grab of the G35 is by design, and that it saves 22 to 44 feet, I beg to disagree. Grabbing the nearest reference I have, the October 2007 Road & Track, I find that:
1) Their brake test of the G37 Sport Coupe gave 60 - 0 MPH in 121 feet.
2) Of the seven Audis tested, four stopped in less distance (111 to 119 feet), one was tied at 121, and two took longer (122 and 130 feet).
3) Of the eight BMWs tested, all stopped in less distance (114 to 120).
4) Of the three Mazdas tested, one tied at 121 and two took less (114, 115).
5) Of the four Pontiacs tested, two took more (126, 128) and two took less (114, 120).
6) Of the four Volvos tested, two longer (130, 123), one tie, one shorter (120).
It looks to me like the G35/37 has very competent brakes, but 22 to 44 feet better is not a realistic assumption.
I cannot yet judge the amount of brake dust on the wheels, too early to tell. Based on the same pad compound on the 560SEC, there will be less dust.
#6
Brake Pads
Originally Posted by ajg35
Is it a bad idea to go with a set of ceramic pads over the oem pads for a sedan? The oem pads have lasted maybe 15k each time and I'm considering going with a premium ceramic pad (due to the dust) that your typical autoparts store sells. Is this a bad idea? I'm going to have the oem rotors turned.
Sc.
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#8
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Originally Posted by scorcher76
I'm using a typical autoparts store (Canadian Tire here in Quebec) Monroe Ceramic Brake Pads. They are definetely less dusty but also less grabby compared to OEM. Since I'm not tracking or anything, they're fine for daily use. They're also less harsh on my rotors.
Sc.
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good to hear... yes, this an all stock daily driver, and I don't care about losing some of the grabbiness.
#9
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Originally Posted by abailey269
If you're worried about the brake dust dont get the Ceramic Axxis Ultimates. Great pad for a mix of track events / daily driving but very dusty.
I have those on my BBK right now and they are super dusty. Going back to Hawk HPS as soon as I get my order in.
#12
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Originally Posted by Dudefish
I also like the Hawk HPS pads. On my second set right now.
What rotors do you run with the Hawk Pads? Also, is the brake install pretty straight forward or is there something goofy I need to be ready for? I'm trying to find a DIY thread, but haven't had much luck thus far. I've done many brake jobs, but never on an infiniti.
Last edited by ajg35; 09-10-2007 at 09:46 AM.
#13
I'm running Hawks on OEM rotors for my fronts (kept the stock pads and OEM rotors on the rears). The pad install is pretty straightforward like any other brake job. Nothing out of the ordinary except I would probably say a couple things:
- Turn the wheel you're working on towards you so that you have more room to remove the bolts from the caliper.
- The new brake pads must be installed in only one way (you can see it when you compare with the old pads ready to be removed) and are held on by metal clips attached to the brake assembly.
- To push the piston back into the caliper, I would use the old brake pad as an interface between the C-clamp and the piston. Watch the brake fluid as you work the piston (don't forget to loosen the brake fluid cover and place rags around beforehand!)
- Turn the wheel you're working on towards you so that you have more room to remove the bolts from the caliper.
- The new brake pads must be installed in only one way (you can see it when you compare with the old pads ready to be removed) and are held on by metal clips attached to the brake assembly.
- To push the piston back into the caliper, I would use the old brake pad as an interface between the C-clamp and the piston. Watch the brake fluid as you work the piston (don't forget to loosen the brake fluid cover and place rags around beforehand!)
#14
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Originally Posted by lexusk8
I'm running Hawks on OEM rotors for my fronts (kept the stock pads and OEM rotors on the rears). The pad install is pretty straightforward like any other brake job. Nothing out of the ordinary except I would probably say a couple things:
- Turn the wheel you're working on towards you so that you have more room to remove the bolts from the caliper.
- The new brake pads must be installed in only one way (you can see it when you compare with the old pads ready to be removed) and are held on by metal clips attached to the brake assembly.
- To push the piston back into the caliper, I would use the old brake pad as an interface between the C-clamp and the piston. Watch the brake fluid as you work the piston (don't forget to loosen the brake fluid cover and place rags around beforehand!)
- Turn the wheel you're working on towards you so that you have more room to remove the bolts from the caliper.
- The new brake pads must be installed in only one way (you can see it when you compare with the old pads ready to be removed) and are held on by metal clips attached to the brake assembly.
- To push the piston back into the caliper, I would use the old brake pad as an interface between the C-clamp and the piston. Watch the brake fluid as you work the piston (don't forget to loosen the brake fluid cover and place rags around beforehand!)
Thanks for the info!
#15