Rear driver's side brake really hot
 

I took the car on a drive, nothing crazy, low RPMs,no hard braking. But I felt like the brakes were weak when I was driving and then I got home I smelled something burning and I traced it back to the rear driver's side brake. And the whole thing was extremely hot, even the rim was hot. Anyone know how to fix this? Or what it can be? And I wasn't driving with the E-Brake on because when I got home I pushed it in.

sounds like a frozen caliper.either the caliper slides are locked up or the piston is seized up.

So it seems that the smell goes away and it stops getting hot when I drive with VDC OFF. So I unplugged my battery for about 15 minutes now so I'll get back to you guys and see if that fixed it

So I let the car sit with the battery unplugged for about 15 mins. Drove it for about 20 mins and it seemed fine. No more over heating brake! I guess it was the traction control staying on

I have an 05 coupe as well. Had the same problem. Ended up replacing both rear calipers because they seized. Rear brake pads had about 1mm left. Front pads looked brand new.

I think thats the problem I have. I thought I fixed the problem but I didn't. It started again. I noticed if i put the car in reverse the car won't move (I park backwards into my garage). I had to hit the gas to 3k RPM to get my car into the garage.

Time to get your brakes checked out.

Resetting your ECU has zero to do with your brake system, your issue is the frozen caliper which needs to be replaced. I'd also have both rear pads replaced while they're replacing the caliper. You don't need to have the Infiniti stealership do the job, Nissan or an independent brake/alignment shop can do the job better at less expense!
Gary

Yup.. sounds like a seized caliper/ piston. If you have a little time, its actually fairly easy to do (keep in mind, you will have to bleed your brakes when removing the caliper, but again, not hard to do even if there is a learning process to it). You could do the repair yourself with a caliper replacement, replace both rotors and pads with a good ceramic for about $200 and an hour or two of your time. (less if you have done brakes before). Rockauto.com sells the pistons for about $3 and you will need a seal kit for around $2 if it turns out to be just the piston but if you want a whole new caliper setup, it will run about $65 and should be something your local auto parts store even has in stock.

I took it to a tire shop today and they confirmed it is a stuck caliper. They wanted $422 for the caliper install, brake pads, and bleed the brakes. Denied it. Went home and took it apart and I can't get the bottom screw on the caliper to move. The top one came off easy. There isn't enough space to fit my air gun and not even enough space for a ratchet because of the sway bar. I tried spraying it with PB blaster and no hope. Anyone got any ideas?

is this typically a seized brake piston or do the brakes need to be adjusted? I know sometimes (not sure how though) brakes can be out of sync if you will. Is that a possibility?

I thought it was something else to because it doesn't always do it. Sometimes its fine.

weird....good to know though. I plan on getting a coupe sometime this year and I need to know what I am getting into! LOL. Precisely why I am here though. Well glad you got that one figured out

when i did my rear brakes, i used a 4in extension on my flex-head ratchet. it was still tough because of the limited space but got it done. i also ended up jacking the rear of the car pretty high just so the handle on the ratchet wouldn't hit the ground so early when i began ratcheting.

btw, $422 for caliper replacement + brake pads + bleeding + labor is pretty reasonable. it's not a deal of a life time, but nothing terrible either.

So I've been driving the car lately and the caliper doesn't always stick. Anyone know why? Does that mean that the caliper isn't even fully stuck and it can be some other problem? I really don't have $400 to replace the caliper at this time.