Is your G35 clunking? Here's what to look for
 

It seems that people still have to wander around the internet to get all the info they need to track down a clunk, so I'm just gonna list all the stuff it could be as far as your suspensions concerned. If I miss anything, or if you have a unique clunk that ended up being something off the wall, please feel free to add.

Common :
Compression rod bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Sway bar end links
Sway bar bushings

Frequent:
Steering knuckle ball joints
Compression rod ball joints
Tie rod ends

Less common (but still known as problematic):
Shock mounts
Inner tie rods

Even less common (but I've heard of it):
Upper control arm ball joint
Upper control arm bushings
Loose subframe shifting with chassis flex

It could also be shocks, but you can always check those for leaks.

If any of the ball joints are leaking, replace them. If any of the bushings are warped/smashed/leaning, replace em.

I'm getting some clunking noise now. I going to replace all the bushings with whiteline

What do you suggest for steering knuckle ball joints?

Either a new steering knuckle or ball joint press, aftermarket ball joints, and some elbow grease!

I replaced mine with Deeza joints from RockAuto haven't had a problem yet. Used the ball joint press from AdvanceAuto, which was the real PITA.

I have a feeling these are in my future, my steering does not sound good.

Yeah, like Coffey said, you can either buy a new steering knuckle at $400+ a pop from IInfiniti (they don't sell the ball joints separately), or buy new aftermarket ball joints ($40/ea from CZP) and rent a ball joint press from autozone. Blakmax did a diy on here awhile back that's a simple step by step, but you still gotta get a bit creative. The press doesn't always fit properly, and its best to have an extra set of hands hold the press onto the joint whild you crank the wrench with an 8' breaker bar.

Also, a 3' pry bar really helps to get those cone shims off. A pickle fork is absolutely useless. Watch out when prying it off and keep your head turned, cuz they'll shoot off like a bullet once they give.

For steering knuckle ball joints I recommend these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-FRONT-LOWE...f1d767&vxp=mtr
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-B...72e7f4&vxp=mtr

I have the Bremen on mine for a couple years now - been great so far

As for the Bushings - look at the lower control arm - it is normally the first to go and will look like this:
Attachment 187997

Attachment 187998

I recommend the Whiteline lower control arm bushings here:
http://www.tollboothwilley.com/#!pro...ushings-w52991

You can also get them in different kits - The full front & Rear Kit is here
It includes: compression rod bushings, upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings, and differential bushings

The Compression rod bushings are some of the most common problems as well - the best design i have see is the whiteline as well, which is why i carry them and have installed them on my own car. I also met their team at SEMA the last couple years in a row and can vouch for their knowledge about suspension.

Link for Whiteline Compression Rod Bushings

I hate bushings...I did energy's up front three years ago and it's time to change them out. Thought about SPL, but I would not be able to stand the noise. Is there anywhere I could use the SPL without a lot of noise?

If you just use the WHITELINE bushings you will not have any problems. they have a lifetime warranty and their customer service has been excellent.

The SPL are nice - but only for dedicated tract cars IMO. Even then, some of the track guys will modify the bushings to accomodate better articulation then they come w/ from SPL. Too much NVH for a car that isn't a dedicated track vehicle.

Thanks guys

Hate to bring this thread from the dead, but just wanted to see if anyone here might help me out.

I have a clunking noise on the front and i am lost as to whats causing it. I replaced my control arm pushing, shock bushing on lower control arm and radius arm busing with suspension technique kit a while ago. Changed out my front and rear end links a week ago. The noise is still persistent and getting louder. The noise happens at slow speed on uneven bumps. Sounds like its a dull metal to metal sound.

I thought it might have been shock knock from my Greddy coilovers, but i checked them out and they seem to be fine.

Only thing i can think of is it could be the inner tie rods or maybe outer. Not really sure how to tell which one went bad. Thought maybe the ball joint but again visually i dont see anything bad.

Help me out guys if you can based on what i described. Maybe tell me how to better check for worn out ball joints or tie rods.

You don't have to be sorry. This is the kind of thread that's meant to be continually revived.

What I would suggest first is make sure all of your nuts and bolts are tight. Check the castle nuts on your compression rods (radius arm) as well as your front subframe bolts. Also check the ball joints on your compression rods, and check your sway bar bushings for dryness and cracking.

The sway bar bushings are good. i lubricate them about every 9 months.
All the bolts seemed to be tied since i checked them a few weeks ago while looking for worn ball joints.

How do i tell if the ball joint or the tie rods went bad? Or if its the steering rack itself? I noticed some oil all over the rack and the rubber boots covering the inner tie rods, but my oil level for steering has not changed.

can the ball joint on the radius arm can be changed or will i need to get a whole new radius arm?

The radius arm ball joints are not replaceable. You have to buy the whole arm. I sell them with poly bushings preinstalled if interested in something like that.

Basically, for ball joints or CV joints and steering racks you're looking for cracked boots that are leaking grease. If the boots are leaking they should be replaced. They can still be worn even if not leaking tho. They'll have a rough clicking noise/feel if they're bad.