Rear Toe Maxed Out
Does anyone have a problem getting their rear toe to 0 degrees? My mechanic says my SPC toe bolts are maxed out and I can't get it any lower/closer to 0deg.
Currently I'm running about .1deg toe and -1.9deg camber in the rear. I can't get my toe closer to 0 without running more negative camber. I'm thinking about replacing my toe bolts since I have a spare set thats brand new. Is it possible that stripped toe bolts could be the problem and putting new ones in will fix it? Fender to ground is 26.25" in the rear with OEM 19s and 245/40 tire. SPC rear camber kit w/ toe bolts. |
Are these the ones you have to wallow out the frame hole? if so, can't you just wallow it out some more? Or am I thinking about "camber" bolts"?
|
Originally Posted by Texasscout
(Post 7001507)
Are these the ones you have to wallow out the frame hole? if so, can't you just wallow it out some more? Or am I thinking about "camber" bolts"?
We need more info for his problem tho. Did you drill out the hole or just stick in the bolts? What are your camber settings? |
He said his rear camber was 1.9 degrees, must be lowered about 1.5-1.75". I'm at 1" lower and I get 1.2 out of mine.
|
Originally Posted by Texasscout
(Post 7001566)
He said his rear camber was 1.9 degrees, must be lowered about 1.5-1.75". I'm at 1" lower and I get 1.2 out of mine.
What's wrong with 0.1 toe tho, OP? Im running 0.12 up front and 0.32 out back with no issues. |
I have the same problem. I have spc camber arms and their toe bolts which were installed correctly. I would be hesitant to elongate the slot further, really the bolts need a more offset cam. I am thinking of getting the slot lockouts and getting kinetix toe arms in the near future. I've seen tire radials on a few occasions.
|
I have .05 in the rear. I would rather not mess with the slot if I was you
|
The slot was made bigger. I'm not going to make it any bigger since that will probably just cause headaches down the road…
And .1 toe is in spec, but I prefer being as close to 0 as possible for tire wear purposes. Scragglerock do you have really high tread ware or something? .32 toe in the rear seems high I was considering the SPL lockout kit as well. What exactly would this accomplish? |
Originally Posted by bchalks
(Post 7002473)
The slot was made bigger. I'm not going to make it any bigger since that will probably just cause headaches down the road…
And .1 toe is in spec, but I prefer being as close to 0 as possible for tire wear purposes. Scragglerock do you have really high tread ware or something? .32 toe in the rear seems high I was considering the SPL lockout kit as well. What exactly would this accomplish? |
Well, toe isn't always a bad thing. It can be adjusted for cornering, traction and road crown. Think about it, if your local roads have a lot of turns what is happening every time you go around a bend doing 60+? You're basically creating toe because your rear wheels stay straight as an arrow basically causing them to be dragged thru the turn. Nothing at all wrong with a little toe if you aren't always driving in a straight line.
Setting your alignment is an art, not a science. You have to make a lot of predictions, and set it for static numbers. How your car sits on the rack is not what you get going 55mph. Edit: Toe arms are completely unnecessary and literally just add another variable into the equation. Those are made for track use when you want complete adjustability. Not to mention your tech will hate you for asking him to deal with them. |
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
(Post 7002562)
Well, toe isn't always a bad thing. It can be adjusted for cornering, traction and road crown. Think about it, if your local roads have a lot of turns what is happening every time you go around a bend doing 60+? You're basically creating toe because your rear wheels stay straight as an arrow basically causing them to be dragged thru the turn. Nothing at all wrong with a little toe if you aren't always driving in a straight line.
Setting your alignment is an art, not a science. You have to make a lot of predictions, and set it for static numbers. How your car sits on the rack is not what you get going 55mph. Unless you go to a performance garage you aren't going to find a Picasso in my experience. Alignments keep me up at night. |
Originally Posted by yosip1115
(Post 7002566)
Unless you go to a performance garage you aren't going to find a Picasso in my experience. Alignments keep me up at night.
|
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
(Post 7002571)
Correct, however if you know how to talk to them and the things you ask of them tend to make sense, they'll usually be willing to listen. Or at least do what you ask them to.
|
Originally Posted by Texasscout
(Post 7001566)
He said his rear camber was 1.9 degrees, must be lowered about 1.5-1.75". I'm at 1" lower and I get 1.2 out of mine.
|
Do you think it is worth it to replace my toe bolts since the passenger side one won't turn anymore but the driver side will turn (according to the tech).
This leads me to believe the bolt on the passenger side might be fakakta from a tech not knowing what he was doing. I know I might sound like I am overreacting but I'm pretty obsessive when it comes to my G. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:29 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands