replacing upper control arms question!
1 Attachment(s)
Quick question...Ordered some replacements and it didnt come with that metal busing/spacer...Is there a way to get it off the old ones?or grab the part from the dealership? Thanks
|
|
Ill take a picture tomarrow of the new ones...they are just missing that metal cone spacer...my lower control arms or compression rods came with those metal spacers...Maybe where the parts were manufactured the person packing them forgot to throw them in the box perhaps.
|
Why don't you just reuse the cone shims from the old arms? It's a perfectly reusable part. They didn't forget to include them, they figured you'd use your old ones. It's not always an included part.
Also, why did you buy new UCAs? Did you get adjustable arms? There's no reason to replace these with OEM-type arms. |
Put tokico hps and 350z s techs on along with new compression rods...then I realized the lower control arms and upper control arm bushings were cracked and falling out...I jus got stock replacements from rockauto......The question is how do I get those shims off tho lol
|
Originally Posted by 408G35Sedan
(Post 7017042)
Put tokico hps and 350z s techs on along with new compression rods...then I realized the lower control arms and upper control arm bushings were cracked and falling out...I jus got stock replacements from rockauto......The question is how do I get those shims off tho lol
|
Not a fan of your advice today scraggle.
OP you can try to get the tool at harbor freight and pry it off but with it being a ball joint that will suck. It is a two fingered fork but I wouldn't go that route. You should press it off on an arbor press, thats how I do it. You will need two steel flats that fit in between the cone and the control arm nice and even. Once you get it moving it will come right off, no need for special tooling on the top of the arbor. |
Originally Posted by yosip1115
(Post 7017091)
Not a fan of your advice today scraggle.
OP you can try to get the tool at harbor freight and pry it off but with it being a ball joint that will suck. It is a two fingered fork but I wouldn't go that route. You should press it off on an arbor press, thats how I do it. You will need two steel flats that fit in between the cone and the control arm nice and even. Once you get it moving it will come right off, no need for special tooling on the top of the arbor. I have a hydrolic press now, and would probably find a way to use that, but at the time I needed to pry. |
Lol I guess I'm spoiled, I used to work at a place that designs/builds automated presses and machines... I was their CAD guy. Now where I work we make automotive sensors by the million and there are still many types of presses available to me hehehe.
I used to go to the shop at the end of the road before I was in industry. He would be happy to help with his press for $20. Mayyybe a bench top vise would suffice. If you cut the stud between the shim and the ball joint you could go at it with an appropriately sized socket. Shouldn't need a small round for the other end, it SHOULD just pop free once you get it moving... If not a bolt or something would work to get the stud to go all of the way through and into the large socket. GL! |
Canada
Originally Posted by knightro g35
(Post 7017010)
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:52 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands