Adjusting camber
 

Alignment is something I would never do myself. You should take it to an alignment place and they should be able to adjust your camber.

The rear is tricky because adjusting camber also adjusts toe so you have to swap back and forth between the two adjustments to get it fully dialed in. Both are done OEM with eccentric bolts, aftermarket camber arms usually are a turnbuckle style adjustment and the bolts are replaced with eccentric lockouts unless you actually need the extra adjustment on some super low setups.

What additional tools would be needed though for trying to align something yourself like that?

Maybe not your standard alignment shop, but you should have some type of performance oriented alignment shop near you. We have West End Alignment around here and they do everything modified, corner balancing etc. etc.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/west-end-al...+end+alignment

Factory spec is about -1° all the way around so if they're putting you at zero they have no idea what they're doing. Most shops will put alignment wherever you want if you specify and it's possible.

To do the most accurate alignment you need a 4 wheel laser rack that will get you within 1/100th of a degree. String box and camber dial will get you within 1/10th of a degree if your eyeballs are good.

Definitely sticking with the local alignment guy. Haha.

Why? It's easy.

Considering a sitting alignment is just a guess for static alignment, 1/100 and 1/10 is not that big of a difference considering an unmeasurable, unknown and illogical baseline.

^^^ This exactly, I think this is what most people don't get about alignment, the values you adjust to are with the vehicle sitting stationary. You determine your alignment specs based on ACTUAL DRIVING CONDITIONS, if you have a habit of always cornering fairly hard and doing a lot of city driving then you should probably be running more camber to compensate. If you do almost nothing but highway driving you can relax the camber a little, buying a tire depth gauge and logging the wear of the tires every 1000 miles is the best way to determine if you need to add or subtract camber for maximum tire life.

Same applies for track vehicles, a friend of mine uses GoPro's at each corner during test laps to visually SEE what the tires are doing through corners and uses that as well as wear indicators to get his suspension dialed in.

Also, alignment is not some big scary thing that requires the big laser rack, I've string boxed the alignment on MANY vehicles with great results, especially trucks that don't even have rear adjustment. My Sierra 2500 has 280k on it right now and have never been on an alignment rack in it's life except during the initial assembly at the GMC plant.

Once you figure that an alignment adjustment for a single vehicle is $100 per year multiplied by how many vehicles you own it makes a lot of sense to spend $700 for a good string box alignment tool like the Tenhulzen, however my first string box was just some scrap angle steel I had laying around for the frame and the only part I purchased was a wheel camber gauge that I modified with some metal rulers for better toe adjustment and it only cost me about $150 total and worked great for the 10 years or so I used it.

My biggest reason for actually paying for an alignment on the G35 once a year is it gives me a chance to catch up with the guys at the custom alignment shop I go to since they are well connected in this city and it almost always leads to something cool. That's how I got to meet the custom Corvette tuner here and now I visit them a few times a year and watch all the 1000+whp madness they have going on. When half the vehicles in the lot have parachutes attached to the back and none of them are legal for street use you know you're dealing with some serious people :)