Hey all,


I'm looking to functionally lower my G properly on the cheap using as many used stock parts as possible - mostly for looks but anything that reduces understeer and increases cornering speeds is also a plus. I plan to put revised OEM 350z springs on my 3 month old KYB shocks/struts.


Here's the question: What accounts for the stock front camber difference between the 350 and the G? I'm assuming they have different factory camber settings due to the slightly different ride heights. I'd like to put a lightly used 350z part onto my G so that my alignment settings will be good in the front after the spring install.


I'm hoping it's the UCA as those are cheap used, but I'm sure someone on here knows for sure. I could probably just put the springs on and be "fine" but I don't want to eat my expensive 19" tires if can avoid it with $40 of parts I need to replace anyways due to a ripped boot and an occasional clunk on one side.

 

If you lower you would be smart to order suspension that has adjustable front and rear camber and toe.

My advice is to go with Kinetix arms front and rear and use SPC rear eccentric bolts for rear toe. If you lower at all you really should be buying a camber kit.

 

I'm already all set in the rear with a camber kit. Kinetix looks like a great deal but right now I'm more trying to fix the clunk for as cheap as possible than lower the car, and thought there might be a good way to do both at the same time. I'll just get the $40 used G35 upper arms and worry about lowering later.

 

If you are gonna lower ... you will need front camber arms lol! Buy once cry once.

 

I am currently sitting on 350z revised Springs, you definitely need a camber kit. Adjustable front upper control arms, adjustable rear camber arms, rear toe bolts. Rear adjustable radius arm (wrongly called traction arms in some kits) are not really needed unless you want to track the car and need to be able to dial in your Bump steer, for Street application you will probably end up with them set at exactly the same length as the OEM ones. They are mostly included with kits because they replace the crappy OEM rubber bushing with a urethane one.

 

Ok, looks like I'll just be replacing with used to fix my issues for now. Just for my own curiosity, which component is it that differs in the 350z which allows it to have the correct camber while riding the on their shorter springs? Afaik all the suspension components are interchangeable, there has to be a difference to account for the 350z's alignment being good at that height and the G's not, unless it's simply a matter of weight.

 

Afaik there are 4 versions of the FUCA, 350Z, G35 coupe, G35 sedan, G35 sedan AWD. The biggest problem though is there is NO adjustment for the FUCA which is the biggest benefit of adjustable aftermarket ones.

 

So would him buying a Z's FUCA put him in alignment for cheap?

 

It sure does sound like it. I'm really surprised nobody else has thought of this as it seems like essentially a $40 (used parts with ~30k) OEM quality camber kit perfectly suitable for daily useage, although as cleric mentioned the lack of adjustability means it's not a good solution for track work.


I would try it out in a heartbeat but I don't have the springs bought or installed yet and I have enough DIY work to do before the end of June as it is with stopping the progress of the rust around my wheel wells before the car sits for 8 months while I'm living in Boston going to school. Plus I need to do new pads and rotors and rear wheel bearings as my brakes are squeaking and grinding while coasting...

 

It also doesn't do anything for the weakest link of the entire front suspension which is the FUCA bushings.

 

That's the weakest link? I thought that was the LCA bushing or the compression rod bushing.



I'm going to install whiteline bushings in the 30k mile G35 UCAs I just picked up from a user on here so that'll take care of that.


I'm really hoping this fixes my clunk as I really don't want to have to do the whole Whiteline CR bushing install again on another pair of arms...

 

When I say "weakest" I mean from a performance standpoint, the OEM rubber flexes too much, put a go-pro on that corner and go hit the Twisties and you'll see exactly what I mean. There's probably close to a full +1 degree of camber change on the outside tire in each corner.