brake pro's slotted rotors question
 

so i got my brake pro slotted rotors (brembo) installed at a local shop around the corner from my house.. i get home today and decide to read through the instructions for fun.. anyway it says that there is a specific rotor for each side.. and they are labled.. now im tripping out because i dont think that grease monkey even looked at which one goes where... i got hawk pads installed at the same time.. and noticed that its been squeeking pretty loud lately.. i dont know if the rotors are just braking in or if its because he didnt put them on correctly.. i'll post pics tonight.. any insight?

Hawks do make noise if you don't bedded them properly. There were lots of discussion about Hawk HPS pads about squeaking and also, decrease in brake performace when cold.

I had Hawks in 2 different occassion and did not like them. Luckly, I did not have issue with noise but I felt the drop in brake performance so I took them out and went with Project Mu B-Force.

I know some member had issues with Hawks HPS squeaking.

I just had Stoptech slotted rotors and HPS pads installed(last monday) on both ends and I have no squeaks and an increase in braking performance. The only "noise" is the wwrrwwrr sound of the slotted rotors but that happens very infrequently. I would make sure the pads are bedded properly and check the slots. Hopefully they are pointing in the right direction.

they werent facing in the right direction... i had the shop fix that for me.. now the squeeking isnt as bad(still there) but i dont believe my brakes were broken in properly is there any remedy for this? oh and if you want to know i was forced to brake hard right when i left the shop to avoid a accident

Brake in procedure
 

I Just installed my Stoptech 2-piece aero rotors Friday.

They came with specific instructions on how to bed in the rotors and pad. To do this correctly you need to heat up the rotors which will burn off some chemicals and lay a layer of pad material on the rotor. Stop tech recommended Hawks HPS for the rear and Axis for the front.

The bed in procudere is as follows.

1 Accelerate to around 60 mph.
2 Use 80-90% braking force to slow to 5-10 MPH (Brake as hard as you can WITHOUT engaging the ABS)
3 Repeat 10 Times ( the exact MPH is not important what is important is to head up the rotors and keep them hot) You will smell some nasty smell (this is brake pad and chemicals that keep rust away) and see smoke.
4 After the 10th decelleration drive around or stop the car on a flat surface. DO NOT APPLY FULL BRAKE PRESSURE UNTIL THE ROTORS HAVE COMPLETELY COOLED. So no stoping at stop lights and holding the brake down and NO parking brake.

5 Once everything is cooled off repeat 1-4

You will know it is right when you see a gray film that is the width of the pads all the way around the rotor. Tthe area of the rotor that ISN'T under the pad will be a clean steel.

I did this and everything is sweet. No noise, great grab, and I hope no fade once on the track. Oh and it doesn't look too bad either.

Thats how its done in a nutshell. Thanks for saving me the hunting & pecking!!

what happens if i already did a bad bedding is it still ok to repeat this procedure? i never knew about bedding brakes etc.. the brake shop didnt say anything nor did stillen

I too had Hawks HPS pads. I noticed that in cold weather they dont break as hard as when they are warmed up. I agree that these would be great on autoX or an easy track event day.

I ended up going for stock pads and still have my HPS laying around for the days i'm going to auto X

allright, how are the "slots" suppose to look like to confirm that they are installed on the correct sides? the slots on the driver fronts looks like
\, is this correct? thanks.

you can do it all over again unless you have glazed the pads.they will look real shiny if you have glazed them.