High mileage g35, what to look for?
 

Hey guys, I am in the market for a 07-08 g35 sedan. I'm looking to spend 10-13k which puts me in the price range of one that will have 100-130k miles on it. How reliable are these cars, what should I check out on them at this kind of mileage to make sure I won't run into any serious problems?

Thanks for the help!

Because Sticky,

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ar-review.html

Thanks for the help but I'm looking for info on higher mileage cars, all that info was for relatively low mileage g35's compared to what I will be buying.

Maintenance records would be important to me. Oil change intervals, transmission fluid changes, differential, radiator flush, spark plugs,.....Then the other stuff that wears by that point - Struts and shock, rack and pinion, etc.

But overall very solid cars and not too many issues. It's a Nissan!

A Carfax will help but not the whole story. Have it checked over by a pro, especially for body work.

I bought mine with 84,000 miles in December for $14,000 and was a pretty good number considering. There are some deals out there with lower miles. I would save a little more and shoot for lower miles.

I agree with G35Driver NC. MAINTENANCE is the most important thing to look for. I bought my 05 G35X with 84,650
I paid $12,000 she came with all the maintenance records since mile 15.Car looks new and runs like it. No tears in the leather interior looks like the outside show room condition.Nissan dealer gave me a two yr bumper to bumper warranty to close the deal. If you buy from dealer try for a warranty if the car is well maintained it will be no problem. If not pass on it. Dealerships go over the car with fine tooth comb to see if it goes on lot or auction.

well where I am in massachusetts. which I am looking into the the same car 07-08 g35x though. Herb chamber had 1 few weeks ago for $$14k with 69k miles. With that Price range you are willing to spend I am pretty sure you can definitely find one under 100k miles. Maintenance records are always important especially over 100k miles. Always ask or run a carfax. If buying a reputable dealership they should hands on have everything. usually our g's after 100k miles always best to make sure that it had a tune up.

The motors on these are really solid and reliable. The weak point is the suspension. Weak bushings and no adjustability tend to wear out bushings and ball joints prematurely. Look for busted compression rod bushings, busted lower control arm bushings and leaking ball joints on the steering knuckles up front.

Also, if you can get it with a non-bose stereo you're better off. The Bose cd player breaks and because Bose uses 2 ohm speakers and a Bose specific amp it makes it fairly costly to replace due to the fact that almost nothing else is completely compatible.

thanks for the help guys

I have an '06 and original owner of my car (130k), so I should be able to give some things I noticed.

I had the following things go out around the mileage:

Water pump. I replaced it and it turned into a timing chain job, since I skipped a tooth.
Timing chain tensioner and guide rails.
Bushings in the control arms and ball joints. Struts were still good, but I replaced them anyway.
Leaking radiator. Replaced with 60 dollar one from eBay still going strong! lol
Cracked hose. Replaced all with silicone
Idler pulley - Don't think that year has it anymore though.
Y-Pipe on the exhaust was leaking terribly. Replaced with a HR Megan pipe.

Transmission, engine, and just about everything else is still all original.

So, outside of warranty I probably spent maybe 2-3K (wheel hub, rotors, 3 calipers, and other things I didn't include above) . Saved thousands more on labor doing it myself and by no means am I mechanic.

Well you do a good job acting like one! Haha

lol, yea it's actually the first car I actually worked with to be honest. I have a Volvo also that I tinker with, but the G is actually fun to work on.

Thanks for this write up, sounds like I could potentially be looking at several thousand in repairs. I will have to get the car checked over thoroughly before making a decision

Well, the most expensive repair actually were the new front and rear shocks. I probably didn't need them, but those were 800-1K alone. I went with Tokico HP in the front and KYB in the rear.

The control arms I replaced were about 50 bucks each and I went with Dorman. The ball joints were about 60 bucks each. I pressed those out myself using a tool from AdvanceAuto.

The water pump was about 250 if I remember correctly. All the replacement timing chain parts were about 250-300 I believe also. If you needed one of those it would be the another high cost on your car. Also, on 07+ I think in order to replace that you would need to pull off the entire front timing cover, since it doesn't have the small access panels mine do. You wouldn't need to replace the timing chain normally from what I hear, but I decided to do it anyway while I had the whole thing apart. The primary tensioner is known for going out and that is about 75-100 bucks alone.

I bought a silicone hose set from Z1 for 250 dollars which replaces a lot of primary hoses. Mine were still in decent shape, but again just decided to do it again.

After I got a 1K repair bill from my mechanic to repair the wheel hub, I decided to do all repairs myself unless I absolutely couldn't. So, that is how my numbers came to be after warranty I have paid about 2-3K in parts labor.

I would have the car looked over though, ask about the gas mileage, and what kind of repairs have been done.

I have an '08 G35x, 198,500 miles on it.
Look for maintenance records. Oil changes ON TIME, and WHAT OIL. Hopefully synthetic and changed often and early. If so, have no fear. Take care to turn off and re-start the car about 4-5 times to watch the idle drop. If it idle drops and turns off more than once in 5 tries, it was probably driven pretty hard (how it should be) and so you should just be aware it is a truly driven car and not babied. Perhaps you will have to clean the throttle body - not a huge deal.
Check intake filters - if they're dirty, just walk from the car. When they're dirty, they make an obvious difference in performance and any owner who misses it is clueless about his/her G. On high mileage, it's these Sherlock Holmes assumptions that save you thousands when picking your new baby.

If it idles smooth, drives smooth, can roll speed bumps without the worn-out-bushing-noise, shifts well and smooth, it's probably a winner. High mileage makes it VERY important that oil changes and regular maintenance was done consistently.

Good luck