Help with low mileage (55k) '05 Coupe I'm considering buying
Hey gang, new user and prospective G35 owner here. I'm 20+ year Nissan guy (Twin Turbo Z32, Maxima, etc) that's always loved the '03-'05 coupe body lines and after doing a bunch of research, I found a vehicle I'm very much interested in. That said, there's a few things I'd like to run by the experts here first since it's a very low mileage car (for the age) and is understandably priced on the higher end. So before I fork over top dollar, I'd like to be as sure as possible.
Aside from the above issues, the car passes all of the initial concerns I've found with older G35s. Oil cap is clean of sludge, all door lock actuators and seat motors work, navigation/Bose system work perfect and the overall interior/exterior is a 9/10 outside of the gash above and the usual ripped seat bolster issue they all have. Though even that's less than any other G I've been in. No oil on the manifolds, no leaking rear diff bushings, no leaks at all that I can see actually, it really does look like a well-maintained 50k mile car. So my gut reaction here, despite the gotchas above, is that I'd really like to own this car provided there's no surprises with the final inspection and my mechanic gives it an all clear. What are your thoughts, fellow G35/G37 gurus? Any advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance, -Ryan https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...c6ad6e0f55.jpg |
That clear bra will easily come off with a heat gun and some slow pulling. I would just repair the gash and leave the clear bra off. It probably looks better without it anyway. I think the car looks clean. If it rides good, feels good, then go for it. |
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
(Post 7162280)
That clear bra will easily come off with a heat gun and some slow pulling. I would just repair the gash and leave the clear bra off. It probably looks better without it anyway. I think the car looks clean. If it rides good, feels good, then go for it. |
Leave the clear bra on, just touch-up paint the gash. I've done a dozen touch-ups on mine just like that. The clear bra will protect the paint from 1000 rock chips over the next decade, don't sacrifice it for the sake of a single chip.
Some day in the future if you get a full professional paint job they'll take it off anyways, a large reason the front of that car looks so good is because it HAS a clear bra :) I doubt the wheel can be fixed, but you can pick up another one for about $200 so it's not a big deal. The rear diff bushing is probably shot even though it didn't rupture yet, plan on getting it replaced with a urethane one Soon™ |
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7162301)
Leave the clear bra on, just touch-up paint the gash. I've done a dozen touch-ups on mine just like that. The clear bra will protect the paint from 1000 rock chips over the next decade, don't sacrifice it for the sake of a single chip.
Some day in the future if you get a full professional paint job they'll take it off anyways, a large reason the front of that car looks so good is because it HAS a clear bra :) I doubt the wheel can be fixed, but you can pick up another one for about $200 so it's not a big deal. The rear diff bushing is probably shot even though it didn't rupture yet, plan on getting it replaced with a urethane one Soon™ |
Regarding the "Not actual mileage" alert on the Carfax/Vincheck, I have the entire report now and can see it a bit clearer. For whatever reason, the "NAM" markings appear at the BEGINNING of the car's life and all the mileage seems to make sense and fit the 55k narrative over the next 14 years. On the one hand, it's weird that it has a NAM at all but on the other, it does seem to document the mileage accurately over the run of the car.
Overall good thing if the car checks out tip top? I've never seen anything quite like this... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d52b77ab91.jpg |
Possibly a defective combination meter that was discovered by the dealership and fixed prior to initial sale, either way those numbers all look legit so I wouldn't be concerned with it.
Looks like an awesome buy on a low mile car, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on it if it's exactly the car you're looking for. |
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7162437)
Possibly a defective combination meter that was discovered by the dealership and fixed prior to initial sale, either way those numbers all look legit so I wouldn't be concerned with it.
Looks like an awesome buy on a low mile car, I wouldn't hesitate to pull the trigger on it if it's exactly the car you're looking for. |
Well gang, picked up the car today and all seemed to go well. Mechanic confirmed it was super clean with the only issues being a ball joint starting to leak on the lower control arm and apparently the driver's side HID light is out. I know those can be pricey from the dealer ($150ish bulb, $400ish ballast) but I'll see if it's just a wiring/connection issue first then look into used Ebay ballasts before I fork over that kind of cash.
Once I get things sorted out I'll be sure to make a proper introduction in the other forum. Thanks again for all the assistance! |
Please dont pay that much money for a bulb or a ballast. |
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
(Post 7162847)
Please dont pay that much money for a bulb or a ballast. I figure if it's not loose wiring, swap the bulbs and see if the issue follows. If it lights up, the bulb was dead, throw in some ~5500k Sylvanias (are they still decent?). If not, ballast is toast. Search says used ones for ~$100 off ebay are a decent option. I'd do that to retain factory, I'd go full aftermarket before paying dealer price... |
Originally Posted by SeedyROM
(Post 7162850)
Oh I wont be, I was just listing it for the sake of ridiculousness. And that wasn't even the lowest, Van Nuys Infiniti wanted $250/$588. Good lookin' out to make sure though.
I figure if it's not loose wiring, swap the bulbs and see if the issue follows. If it lights up, the bulb was dead, throw in some ~5500k Sylvanias (are they still decent?). If not, ballast is toast. Search says used ones for ~$100 off ebay are a decent option. I'd do that to retain factory, I'd go full aftermarket before paying dealer price... But yeah...swap the bulbs and see what happens. And by Sylvanias....are u talking bout the regular halogen bulbs? Because thats what most people mean when they say Sylvania....and that wont work with an HID ballast. U need an HID bulb. I'm prolly just misunderstanding tho. |
Sylvania makes a full line of every lamp, they're a solid manufacturer and when my lamps go out I always replace with Sylvania.
Congrats on the car purchase. |
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
(Post 7162852)
Oh and congrats on the new car. I didn't even know u were local. But yeah...swap the bulbs and see what happens. And by Sylvanias....are u talking bout the regular halogen bulbs? Because thats what most people mean when they say Sylvania....and that wont work with an HID ballast. U need an HID bulb. I'm prolly just misunderstanding tho. Is there perhaps something better I could be using? Or do people usually just replace with stock Philips? Oh and thanks again for the congrats. I'm definitely local, just east of Pasadena. |
Morimoto makes HID bulbs for $40 a pair that seem to be high quality. They're inexpensive and also from a well-regarded company with excellent quality control at least on their projectors, I'd get them from The Retrofit Source.
I gave a $20/pair 4300k TRS ACME H1 bulbs a shot but one blew after 3 months when I upped its power to 55W so I won't recommend those, although on 35W the light output is excellent with a nice colorful cutoff on my aftermarket projectors. That is one nice car. Amazing find! |
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