I recently debadged my G. Where the G35 came off, it looks great. Where I took off the Infiniti there is a white outline around each letter. I used a clay bar on the entire car, however the outline did not come off. How do i remove the white outline around where the letters were located?

Just donated about 400 dollars to your cause. :D

Anyways what do you recommend as far as touching up the paint in the front after those rough winter months.

Washing and a clay bar is a good start to remove any residue, but it won't fix the problem. Polish that area and it should all look more uniform and like new again. I'd start off with a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 or the Menzerna PO106FA Nano Polish (Super Finish). Both options should provide a huge improvement and solve the problem. If for some reason it's still there after we can recommend another stronger polish, but generally a light polish is all you need. If you have any questions please let me know.

Your business is very much appreciated! Dr. Colorchip and kits like it will help do repair work. Your process is critical though so make sure you take your time with lots of wet sanding and polishing afterward. Good luck!

I tried to go through the 100+ pages to find my answer but got dizzy. I have a tan interior and the leather seats are extremely dirty I have tried Lexol and blue magic with no success is there a better product and or method to get these clean? The dirty spots almost look stained so am I just hosed?

^ try searching up leatherique

This weekend I was carrying some acid sanitizer (star-san) in my g35 coupe and some of it leaked onto the passenger seat (perforated leather). I wiped it up when I noticed a few mins after it happened, but was planning to really clean it later. When I came back a few hours later, it had eaten a hole about 1/2" x 1/4" in the leather, connecting a several of the perf dots. A few of the other dots had almost been made larger by the acid.

Is there anything that can be done to repair this, short of replacing the entire bottom part of the seat? If not, is there anything I can do to help prevent the hole from expanding when people site in that seat?

I'm looking for some tips/how to articles on using my new Makita. In my arsenal I have green, white and black pads (Lake Country 4") and Poorboy's SSR 1 & 2. I got the smaller less aggressive pads because this is my first time polishing with a rotary and read the smaller pads will lessen the likelihood of damage. I'm also slightly confused about priming the pads and using pad lubricants, any help with speeds, techniques or any relevant readings would be great.

I did like the leather rejuvenator oil and cleaner. made the leather feel much smoother and softer and i didnt realize how dirty it actually was. crazy enough my hands felt smooth as heck too lol

The Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil is definitely the product of choice for this task. Work in the product with the DI Accessories Leather and Vinyl Scrub Brush. Together these products can remove deeply embedded contaminants so the seats look and feel like new again. If you want the absolute best results possible you can follow this outline, otherwise just apply them like normal. http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...r-care-how-to/

If you want a complete leather restoration kit check out these two:
DI Packages Leather Care 16oz
DI Packages Leather Care 32oz

Let me know if you have any other questions I'd be happy to help!

Greg @ DI

Wow that is a new one to me and I don't have any great advice for you. I'd suggest contacting leatherique.com and see if they have any suggestions.

Greg @ DI

With your current combination I'd use the SSR 2 first with a green pad (speeds 900+) and follow up with the SSR 1 with the white or black pad (speed 900+). With rotary buffers the smaller pads are easier/safer to work with (opposite is true for orbital buffers).

Priming the pad can be done a few different ways. Sometimes if you just mist a little quick detailer or clay lube on a dry or new pad it can help reduce issues. Another option is to use a little extra polish on your first 1 - 2 passes and smear it all over the pad so it's not totally dry. A totally dry pad with just a drop of polish is more prone to hazing the surface. Check out this article for some pics of priming - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Greg @ DI

After I thought I had cleaned it up, a couple of days later the acid suddenly started eating through the hole even more. I now have about a 1x1 inch hole in the seat plus a bunch of expanded perforations.

After doing some research on some other car sites, I found some info on fixing it using a kit from http://www.leathermagic.com. Basically, you cut it out to a clean hole and glue on a cloth under-patch from beneath. Then you cut a piece of leather to fit the hole, fill in the gaps, color match a special filler material, then sand and make new perforations with a needle.

It will probably be a good bit of work, but $30 for the kit is a lot cheaper than paying hundreds for professional repair. I saw some pretty good results on the web, like here: http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/juli...herrepair.html

I'll try to take some photos when I do it and put a post up on the forums. I'm sure other people would find it useful if it actually works, as I was sure I was going to have to buy a whole new seat.

Good luck and keep us posted about the results with some before and after pictures. I also would suggest you be extremely carefully around whatever caused that problem.

Greg @ DI

Yeah, star-san (brewing sanitizer) will definitely not be going inside my car again.