Also if the service dpt dose end up pulling its head out of its a$$ I am going to try to get them to pay for the clutch and installation seeing as they did make a mis diagnosis.

 

Same thing here. 05 6MT sedan, 47K miles, almost entirely city. No clutch slippage. When its over 90 outside and I'm driving more than 20 or so miles, two things happen:

- the clutch "feel" changes - engagement point seems to drop from mid-stroke of the pedal to right off the floor
- the clutch pedal will either stick half way up on release, or come up slower than my foot

When I took it to the dealer, they had just had a similar problem on anther car which was diagnosed as the clutch pedal bushing being broken. So I got a new clutch pedal assembly installed. They said they clearly saw I also had a broken bushing.

The problem repeated itself two times later that same week, so I took it back to them and they replaced it again. Now on my third clutch pedal assembly, it seems to have improved. Its only happened once since then when I got stuck in major traffic.

When I called to inform service writer of the new incident, he talked my situation over with the shop foreman. His conclusion: I probably have an issue with my pressure plate. $2200 or so for a new clutch & flywheel.

Not sure where to go from here, but would love to see a post from someone who was able to fix the problem definitively. It's certainly not a problem worth $2200 to fix, but what does the future hold?

 

The dealer ended up replacing my master cylinder. The clutch feels 100% better although I have not had a chance to drive it enough to see if the problem is gone.

 

I've put several hundred miles on my car and the problem seems to be fixed. For those experiencing this problem don't take no for an answer. I drove my car until i could barely get it in gear and then took it to the dealership and made a tech drive it. The clutch feels 100% better although something underneath the car jingles (Not clutch chatter. It almost sounds like a bell) when ever I drive over bumps. Looks like another trip back to my favorite place in the world!

 

I had the same problem, with the sticking clutch, once or twice when I was stock. I just boiled the clutch fluid.

Then at 25k miles, my clutch started to slip. Not a defect, not a Nissan/Infiniti problem, and not a driver's problem(not quite). I had done too many high-rpm launches at the drag strip - so I wasn't expecting it to last long.

I replaced the clutch with a clutchmasters stage1 and jwt flywheel. On the way home from the dealership I had the sticking pedal issue. Over the next couple of days it got so bad I could barely drive the car. I usually experienced it during traffic; if I were on the interstate, there was no problem.

I replaced my clutch line with a stainless steel line. Hour job, including flushing the fluid. I haven't had a problem since.

So far the car has ~62k miles on it, with 300 passes at the drag strip, maybe half of those 6 to 7k rpm clutch drops on drag radials. Still on the original master and slave cylinders luckily.

 

Good info. I know a lot of people have had this problem.

 

Would love to see a little info on replacing that line, Trey.

 

Good information, I'm taking mine in next week for the same problem. I have 41,000 miles on mine and had this problem since last summer. Its been sitting all winter and drove it the other day when it was hot out and the problem came back.

 

Well My car is a 05 with 15K mi. & does the same ****. Called the dealership & they told me the clutch and clutch parts are no longer warentied so i am screed. Love the car, Always hated the clutch & will never buy another Infiniti.

 

my car does that too! dealer told me for sure it was the clutch, do u guys think its true???

 

I have an 05 6mt with 49k and started having the sticky clutch problem today, talked to the dealership in valencia and set up an appointment on Friday so they can take a look at it. I also have a video on my phone just in case they cannot duplicate the problem. This is the first time its happen to me on this car with 90+ degree wheather but I had an 05 altima that they had to replace the master cylinder becasue of the same problem. Anybody ever taken there car to the valencia dealership for a problem like this?

Hey everyone, just wanted to give an update with my experience this friday at the parkway infiniti in santa clarita. So I talked with the service advisor and i told him that i had a video of what was happening to my clutch. So he called over his service technician Manny (Nice Guy) and I showed him the video. He said that two weeks ago he had the same problem with an 06 and that they fixed under warranty. They did tell me they had to duplicate the problem so i though i was going to start getting the run around because I drove an hour and fifteen minutes just to get there and then another 20 minutes in town so that i could try and duplicate the problem myself. I had no luck. so an hour goes by and the service advisor came up to me and told me that Manny was able to duplicate the process. I couldnt understand how this was possible, but i went with it and he said that they ordered the master clutch cylinder. There giving me a call this week when the parts get in to have it all done under warranty. This is the first dealership that was hassel free. Give another update once its fixed and it hits 90+ degree weather. Hopefully this solves the problem.

 

Had that problem on during warm weather or heavy traffic~~~ I have a 06 6MT with 30k miles.... Had it checked last year at Frontier Infiniti in San Jose and did not find any problem. appointment on Monday at Elk Groove Infini, see if they can find anything~~

 

Guys, there are several possible issues being discussed in this thread. Each cause can lead to the same effect and as such I wanted to share my opinions and experiences with you relative to this problem:

Hydraulic Fluid Break-down (resulting from boiling and water dilution)
Hydraulic systems are intended to be sealed, keeping them safe from moisture which can lead to the break-down of the fluid and subsequently a reduction in their resistance to boiling and thus aeration.

The easiest way to check the state of the hydraulic fluid is to examine the reservoir. If the fluid is discolored or cloudy then this may evidence that the fluid has boiled. I personally use Motul RBF600 and after having had the same issues described above I flushed and refilled the system with the above fluid and all was well.

External and Internal Fluid Bypass within the Slave or Master-Cylinder
Because hydraulic systems operate as a result of pressure it is logical that a sealed system, with no external or internal leaks, would be required for proper operation. External leaks are far easier to track down as they are generally evidenced by the presence of hydraulic fluid in the vicinity of the slave or master-cylinder (drips under the car when it comes from the slave or moisture on the fire-wall or in the driver-side foot-well if it is the slave).

Internal leaks on the other hand are damn near impossible to prove or find evidence for (without disassembling the slave or master). That being said, if you have checked everything else and there is no evidence of a problem, it is possible that you are having an issue of bleed-by inside the slave or master-cylinder. This typically happens as a result of seals that have torn as a result of use and heat, allowing for the fluid to pass beyond the plunger which inhibits the return of the plunger and thus the pedal to their released position.

Clutch Line Expansion (resultant from heat and wear)
As you likely know rubberized lines are a great way to insulate fluids that are intended to remain in a sealed system. The down-side to rubberized lines is that they are inherently affected by temperature and over time they can begin to loose their resistance to expansion.

Swelling, as pressure is increased (as would happen when depressing the clutch pedal), would cause less pressure to make it to the slave-cylinder and thus the throw-out bearing...this in turn would reduce the amount of throw achieved by the bearing and thus impact the release of the clutch. Though this can certainly affect clutch actuation it is unlikely that this would hinder fluid transfer back to the Master-cylinder. When the pedal is released so to is pressure and as such it is unlikely that this is leading to a pedal that will not return.

I know that Trey mentions that he had this issue and that replacing the line helped. But, I wonder if it was the replacement of the line or the associated bleeding if the system that actually solved the problem. It's hard to know...though ultimately having a braided line isn't a bad thing nor is it overly expensive to buy so it certainly can't hurt.

I hope that this info helps. Please let me know if you have any questions relative to the info provided and I will be happy to assist. Thanks!

 

I have a 2005 Sedan MT and have been experiencing the same issues with my clutch pedal. I have only had the car about two months, so don't know if the previous owner had any issues or replaced clutch. 52K miles...which means no warranty...unless this is covered under the powertrain warranty. Does anyone know?

I just changed my clutch fluid, and no changes. Clutch pedal is still doing the same thing. BTW, it is unusually warm here in WA 85-90 degrees.

 

A clutch doesnt cost 2100$ to do.. look I got the JWT Clutch / Flywheel combo for 775$/shipped installed cost me 350$.. and it was just worth every penny of it.. It sure doesnt stick.. haha you should see how fast that pedal wants to get back up when i release it..