Transmission not pushing back on slave cylinder piston?
 

I have a 03 6MT Coupe with ~85K.

So on my way to work yesterday my car goes from shifting fine to "oh crap my clutch is in the floor"! After leaving it in 4th gear and cruising to work (luckily there were only 2 right turns from that point) I figured over lunch I would get some brake fluid and refill the reservoir thinking that it was just a hydraulic issue.

So I pop the hood at lunch and notice that the level is a bit low but not bone dry or even below Min. I add some anyway and go to pump the clutch and the level rapidly drops but there's no leak and when I stop pumping it *slowly* returns to where it was.

I get a mobile repair guy to come out because I don't want to be out there fixing it while I should be working and I want it ready to drive home that night and he informs me that the plate that pushes back against the slave cylinder piston isn't actually pushing back and it's something in the transmission.

I wish I knew more about transmissions but I feel like I'm going to learn an expensive lesson on them now.

SO... my questions are.:
A) What would be the cause of that? My guess is it's some cheap part but I'm going to have to spend an arm and a leg on labor to drop the transmission. The mobile repair guy said he had seen this a lot in Nissans and Infinitis but couldn't think of what it was and suggested I ask at a transmission place.

B) Since I'm dropping the transmission anyway should I just go ahead and replace the flywheel and clutch and possibly rebuild it since I also have a 3rd gear synchro that grinds occationally.

C) I also have that idle "whirring" noise going on when the clutch is out and I saw the solution for what it was a while back but can't find it to save my life now. Lots of threads complaining about it but I only ever saw one solution thread. Can someone point me there? Also, would putting in a lighter flywheel possibly make that noise worse?

Thanks for any help and if any one is ever in the Raleigh area and wants to grab a beer PM me! :)

Normally with 6mt on these vehicles when you have clutch issues and pedal not returning the issues are simple. Clutch fluid, Clutch pedal needs lube, Slave cylinder or master cylinder (do this last). The whole process should only cost you like $300 max for all parts and you will not need to drop the tranny for that. I would have all clutch fluid changed out and flushed, lube up the clutch pedal, and replace the slave cylinder. If problems pursue then do the Master cylinder and than after that it needs tranny work.


Edit: Rebuilding tranny is worthless since it is VERY EXPENSIVE and the older 6mt are weak. The newer cd009 has beefed up syncro for 1st. 2nd and 3rd and couple other revisions to help with reliability. I would ditch the tranny and find a cd009 tranny out of a late model 2005 g35/350z or 2006. You will need to change the pivot bolt and maybe clutch fork. The swap will be cheaper than a rebuild since used tranny go for $500-$800 and new is $1800 shipped. Than drop in after market clutch / lightened flywheel and you are set.

I know the general procedure for working the hydraulic system. Lord knows I have plenty of experience with it! I have never seen the issue where the slave cylinder wasn't getting pushed back by the clutch fork or whatever that tongue looking thing is that the slave pushes against.

The swap definitely looks to be the way to go and I'll try to get that straight.

Many thanks on the answer there! I'm Just getting into G35s (had a 240SX for years and glad to be moving up) That 100% answers question B. Anyone got any ideas on what the root cause of it was though and also about the "whirring" sound with the clutch out?