06 G35 6MT Clutch sticking (FULL rebuild)
 

Hello guys,

So I've done a full engine rebuild, had the transmission rebuilt as well, however when we go to bleed the clutch the pedal still sticks to the floor (have to pull it back with your foot).
I've replaced the slave cylinder and the issue persists.

New JWT flywheel and clutch/pressure plate, new slave cylinder, using DOT 4.

I was thinking it might be just due to the fact we have not started the car yet (could cause pressurization?)

Anyone else have the issue? have I just not bled the system enough? Should I just give up and drive a prius? (jk lol)

Have you carefully followed the instructions in the FSM?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/cl.pdf

" Check clutch hydraulic and system components (clutch master
cylinder, clutch operating cylinder, clutch withdrawal lever, clutch
release bearing, etc.) for sticking or binding.
a. If any sticking or binding noted, repair or replace related parts as
necessary."

Telcoman

Thanks for the reply telcoman,

We pulled the MSC and found it to be full of nasty old clutch fluid, bought a new one to be safe and installed it, tried bleeding the system again to no avail.

So, this time I pulled the SC off and bled the air out by turning it upside down, then opening the bleed valve. Worked much better and now I have about 90% clutch pressure. After 8 attempts of FSM directed bleeding it is still the same, and now I am wondering if it is just the MSC rod needing adjustment... :dunno:

Tried to fire it up but the car does not start.
We have ruled out fuel pump, and when we pull a coil pack out to test spark against a ground there is none. Could my key be faulty preventing spark?

For reference I have a bullydog tuner installed (gonna uninstall soon as the car starts) and it shows the car hitting only 150 rpm, although I read it needs to hit 250rpm to actually spark, is this correct?