10-40??? Dealer’s fix for my oil burning problem?
#16
from what I read... most of the friction and wear occurs at startup before oil can cycle through ... a thinner oil will 'flow' better to these parts much quicker... a thicker oil would take longer to flow... once the car is warm... your operating viscosity is the same (30) 0w-30 vs 5or10W-30
-someone correct me if Im wrong here
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
-someone correct me if Im wrong here
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
#17
#18
I honestly think its all about how you break the motor in, although some would disagree. If you seat the rings properly, you shouldnt have oil consumption. 2 of my buddys have Gcoupes... both 06'. One drove like a grandma and the other beat the **** out of it during break in.... guess which one is burning 1-2qts/1500 miles...???
#19
Broke mine in under factory recommendations. I was consuming 1qt/1200mi until about 7-8K. (Dealer said no to consumtion test since I wasn't at, or worse than 1qt/1000mi )
Then started to slowly tapered off and currently consuming 1/4qt/1000mi with 16-17K on odo.
Im a believer in break-in procedures for internals to seat in and also to vary your rpms alot during break-in. Don't go on a long frwy/hwy trips with same rpm. Internals won't seat correctly.
There's a known high vacuum pull on these VQ's at 3000rpm on up, which is where alot of the oil is going. It's not always the rings, though some have this problem and those are the ones, imo, that drink 2-3qts+/1000mi regardless odo miles and vacuum pull.
My Dealer says no to 10-40. Yes to 0-30 and 5-30. The (30) is good for temperatures above 100, which is enough protection in most hot climates.
These VQ's don't run well with thicker oils and hurt performance, so I've heard and been told. No personal experience. I've always run 5-30.
NorCalGRide....
That is a lame solution to try 10-40, though manual says you can use. Hey...tell your Dealer why not 20-50 That's oil for old tired-out, oil consuming engines.
But, as already mentioned, I'd go with what Dealer says for now.
Hopefully consumption will calm down with yours like mine has.
If not, tell your Dealer now you want the VQ35HR as your third replacement...
G/L
Then started to slowly tapered off and currently consuming 1/4qt/1000mi with 16-17K on odo.
Im a believer in break-in procedures for internals to seat in and also to vary your rpms alot during break-in. Don't go on a long frwy/hwy trips with same rpm. Internals won't seat correctly.
There's a known high vacuum pull on these VQ's at 3000rpm on up, which is where alot of the oil is going. It's not always the rings, though some have this problem and those are the ones, imo, that drink 2-3qts+/1000mi regardless odo miles and vacuum pull.
My Dealer says no to 10-40. Yes to 0-30 and 5-30. The (30) is good for temperatures above 100, which is enough protection in most hot climates.
These VQ's don't run well with thicker oils and hurt performance, so I've heard and been told. No personal experience. I've always run 5-30.
NorCalGRide....
That is a lame solution to try 10-40, though manual says you can use. Hey...tell your Dealer why not 20-50 That's oil for old tired-out, oil consuming engines.
But, as already mentioned, I'd go with what Dealer says for now.
Hopefully consumption will calm down with yours like mine has.
If not, tell your Dealer now you want the VQ35HR as your third replacement...
G/L
#20
If driving in a all year round warm climate, I would not suggest a 30 weight oil, especially a multigrade such as a 5w/30 or 10w/30 which is even thinner that a straight 30. Ideally, you would want a straight 30 except for start ups when you want the thinnest oil possible. That is why I use Mobile 1 0W/40 in the extreme florida heat. I would have used 0W/30 if it were not for the thin quality of most multigrade 30 weights. For whatever it might be worth, I have researched this subject to death in many forums and am very **** about my car in general. I would never put anything in my car that might hurt it.
Last edited by bocatrip; 04-28-2007 at 12:37 AM.
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#22
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Stealerships advice........?
I switched to synthetic at 700 miles and used Mobil 1. When I discovered
Mobil 1 is using a cheaper base for their so call prem oil I switch to Red Line.
Yea, this stuff is almost $10 a quart but for piece of mind and to keep my
G running it's best I feel it's worth it. I used Mobil 1 in my last car ('92 300
ZXTT) and put 125K miles on the clock and "never" used a drop between
changes.......that was then and this is a different engine!
Mobil 1 is using a cheaper base for their so call prem oil I switch to Red Line.
Yea, this stuff is almost $10 a quart but for piece of mind and to keep my
G running it's best I feel it's worth it. I used Mobil 1 in my last car ('92 300
ZXTT) and put 125K miles on the clock and "never" used a drop between
changes.......that was then and this is a different engine!
#24
Running 10W40 sounds like a convenient way for the dealer to get you to leave them alone... that is, until your warranty runs out and then your motor starts to wear down a bit leading to more oil burning. Then, what you're stuck with is an expensive motor that won't run right on any oil(no matter how thick) and will cost you like 8 grand out of your own pocket to fix.
It's very unfortunate that this is happening soo much with these motors, but you paid good money for a new/newer car, and it's the manufacturers responsibility to make sure that it lives up to expectations as long as you are abiding by the recommended maintenence specs in terms of frequence of maintenance as well as the products used in maintenance(Motor oil grade, etc). Bring it back and have them fix it again.
It's very unfortunate that this is happening soo much with these motors, but you paid good money for a new/newer car, and it's the manufacturers responsibility to make sure that it lives up to expectations as long as you are abiding by the recommended maintenence specs in terms of frequence of maintenance as well as the products used in maintenance(Motor oil grade, etc). Bring it back and have them fix it again.
#26
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This is what I'm worried about also. I am gettig my new motor in a few days and I hope it doesn't start burning oil with the new motor also. Back when I had a vette Chevy was having probs with the Ls6 motors burning oil adn they replaced all the rings in these cars voila problm fixed. Infiniti needs to address that their actually is a problem and then formulate a solution.
#27
Originally Posted by BabyGT
does the 07 coupe have the same problem?
I'd like to say that I babied it, but there were a few incidents where I took the salesmans advice before I read the manual. Stoopid me.
#28
i have an off topic question but as it pertains to oil i'll ask... my friends mechanic put in 5w-20 oil in his 04 Z - non rev-up motor... he didnt notice cuz he was told it was the correct oil... he said hes gone through 4 oil changes like that and hasnt had any apparant problems with his car... he says it runs perfect and from what i can tell it does.... u guys think that a huge problem or should he be fine now that hes running 5w-30... we're located in so cal btw
#29
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hey, my bad all... the oil was actually 10/30, not 10/40... I goofed.
but, regardless, it's still not a proper oil suggested for my climate by Infiniti...
this is their (Infiniti's) current strategy to delay issuing an official service bulletin fully admitting a problem with oil consumption...
but, regardless, it's still not a proper oil suggested for my climate by Infiniti...
this is their (Infiniti's) current strategy to delay issuing an official service bulletin fully admitting a problem with oil consumption...
#30
i heard running convensional oil for the first 10k miles will prevent the oil burning problems... something about synthetic being too thin for the seals to bed properly... i heard that at the stillen meet from one of the guys showing off his car... the guy with the ARC 350z... but yea dont know if its true since the non rev-up engines dont have the same problem...
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