engine stalling, please help
#1
engine stalling, please help
my wife's pos '03 g35 sedan has just recently had a problem with frequent stalling while driving. it seems like it has this problem most when the throttle is really low. it also seems like when you take your foot off the throttle the rpms drop a little lower than they should. my wife says that the idle rpms seem a little lower than they usually do at 600-700rpm, she says it's usually not below 800. i took it to the nissan dealer and the mechanics say that there are few things that would cause this without a ses light. they said a maf sensor intermittent problem would cause this and they want 800 plus dollars to replace it. i think that's a bunch of **** because i know mafs aren't that expensive and i know i could do that myself. also, i don't feel like spending that much if they don't even know if it's the problem. does anyone have any suggestions on what the problem could be or has someone had this problem themselves before? thanks.
#3
#4
MAF is easy, it's two Phillips head bolts and one plug, right on the intake. It also could just be dirty, get some MAF cleaner and remove/spray it down before you replace it.
Could also be a tear in a vacuum line that only presents itself at high vacuum/low rpm.
Could also have to do with the throttle body.
Long shot but it could also be a bad battery. If your battery is completely dead it could be putting a heavy strain on the alternator at idle causing the stall.
Could also be a tear in a vacuum line that only presents itself at high vacuum/low rpm.
Could also have to do with the throttle body.
Long shot but it could also be a bad battery. If your battery is completely dead it could be putting a heavy strain on the alternator at idle causing the stall.
#5
MAF is easy, it's two Phillips head bolts and one plug, right on the intake. It also could just be dirty, get some MAF cleaner and remove/spray it down before you replace it.
Could also be a tear in a vacuum line that only presents itself at high vacuum/low rpm.
Could also have to do with the throttle body.
Long shot but it could also be a bad battery. If your battery is completely dead it could be putting a heavy strain on the alternator at idle causing the stall.
Could also be a tear in a vacuum line that only presents itself at high vacuum/low rpm.
Could also have to do with the throttle body.
Long shot but it could also be a bad battery. If your battery is completely dead it could be putting a heavy strain on the alternator at idle causing the stall.
you can get the a non-residue electronic cleaner from radioshack to clean the MAF sensor. G/L
#6
Everytime you change MAF element you must recalibrate ecu to correlate it with MAF. Same with changing drive by wire Throttle Body
Follow instructions precisely in Factory Service Manual.
When they went to inexpensive replaceable MAF module in stationary housing they accepted the need for this proceedure vs change the whole MAF housing method.
Allows for a very PRECISE idle adjustment if technican is careful.
Follow instructions precisely in Factory Service Manual.
When they went to inexpensive replaceable MAF module in stationary housing they accepted the need for this proceedure vs change the whole MAF housing method.
Allows for a very PRECISE idle adjustment if technican is careful.
#7
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#8
Same Issue
I also have the same issue with my 04 coupe. I dont know if its related but I replaced my Air Filter two days before it started to do this. It stalls on a warm start unless I give it gas. I cleaned out the throttle body and the MAF sensor yesterday but still the same. I also disconnected the battery for 12 hours to reset the ECU and it still stalls.
#11
i actually have been having same problem as stated above by OP. But today my car threw a code P0340. I have 03 g35 coupe with roughly 64,5XX miles. Warranty is over so trying to figure out what the cause of the problem is.
Any clue or help is greatly appreciated.
Also is this a common problem, i seem to hear this as off lately from a few people, but they have no idea as to what it is either.
Any clue or help is greatly appreciated.
Also is this a common problem, i seem to hear this as off lately from a few people, but they have no idea as to what it is either.
#12
my problem sounds very similar....
i'm assuming you have to have a check engine light first before you will get a code to spit out.
When the car is warm (and only when warm), it has been stalling while driving and coasting in neutral to a stop and idling low (~500 rpm). But no check engine light...does that mean i won't get a code?
i'm assuming you have to have a check engine light first before you will get a code to spit out.
When the car is warm (and only when warm), it has been stalling while driving and coasting in neutral to a stop and idling low (~500 rpm). But no check engine light...does that mean i won't get a code?
#13
My first gen 03 sedan (with the trunk release thing) does the same thing, only it never did this before I added the "Restore 6-cylinder formula" to the crankcase, exactly as the directions said. i have a call into the restore company, but we'll see how that goes. could it be that after that restore there's too much oil in the crankcase? the website for this product is www.restoreusa.com if anyone isn't familiar with it. many times i can start it up fine and it wont seem to be choking, but if i gun it a little it subsequently splutters and chokes out. very embarrassing. a leak or something in the vacuum hose sounds like it could be likely, because the whole situation reminded me of when i put sea foam in the vacuum line. i'm hoping the MAF isn't malfunctioning, Sewell wants about 450 for it, not incl labor. the only non-OEM thing about my car is a K&N air filter.
#14
My first gen 03 sedan (with the trunk release thing) does the same thing, only it never did this before I added the "Restore 6-cylinder formula" to the crankcase, exactly as the directions said. i have a call into the restore company, but we'll see how that goes. could it be that after that restore there's too much oil in the crankcase? the website for this product is www.restoreusa.com if anyone isn't familiar with it. many times i can start it up fine and it wont seem to be choking, but if i gun it a little it subsequently splutters and chokes out. very embarrassing. a leak or something in the vacuum hose sounds like it could be likely, because the whole situation reminded me of when i put sea foam in the vacuum line. i'm hoping the MAF isn't malfunctioning, Sewell wants about 450 for it, not incl labor. the only non-OEM thing about my car is a K&N air filter.
Went to West Houston Infiniti (the only dealer I've come across that refuses to engage customers until the customers engage them) and the shop foreman told me that the most probable cause was the buildup that the Restore product cleaned had clogged my Intake Timing Solenoid valves, and the first course of action would be to change the oil. He changed the oil and cleared up the ITS valves and it runs fine. Long story short-DO NOT EVER USE RESTORE (silver and black can) ON ANY CAR YOU OWN!!
#15
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning and Idle Air Volume Learning reset procedures solved my idling problem....give it a shot, but make sure to have the timing down as it says otherwise you never actually reset anything....took me a few tries.
see reset procedures:
https://g35driver.com/forums/intake-...-cleaning.html
see reset procedures:
https://g35driver.com/forums/intake-...-cleaning.html