Engine stalls on deceleration ?!?! Anyone else had this problem ?
 

So for some reason my engine has twice now stalled on deceleration.

I'll be exiting off of the highway and shift into neutral to coast as I slow down for say a light or something on the service road and all of a sudden without any audible or physical warning the engine will shut off even though all the electronics are running without any problems.

Btw, the car drives absolutely normal otherwise.

If it weren't for a more firm steering column I wouldn't have noticed it at all even the first time.

I've been lucky and just got a SES light come on so I'll be checking it as soon as I get access to a reader.

Just wondering if anyone else on here has ever expierenced a similar problem.

The only mods that are on this car drivetrain wise are nismo exhaust, headers, t-stat.

I once had a vortech full kit on there with the unichip and use the cipher to increase the idle RPM but changed it back to the factory RPM before getting rid of the FI. After uninstalling everything I've had not a single issue for about 2000 miles now so this is an odd new problem to me.

i had this for a while when i got my lightweight flywheel, then i got my idle bumped and everything is bueno now.

oh ok I guess I'l just pick up another cipher cable and bump my idle a tad.

so SES light shows 0300 0174 and 0171.
0300 is misfire and 174/171 are bank 1 and 2 running lean condition.

I checked the MAF sensor and it doesn't look dirty at all.

It only happens when I'm driving over 40 mph and shift into neutral and it drops down to a super low IDLE.

I think it might be related to my car being hit in the back a few weeks ago. this problem only started happening since I got my car back after the accident. very bizarre!

so here's an update. I took it to the nissan dealer in town and they did the idle air volume relearn on it and it seems to be ok so far. no stalling yet but on idle it does seem to run very lean (17s and 18s AFR) and I only know b/c I still have my AFR gauge in.

I recall my car idling at around mid 14s to low 15s previously. Does anyone else know if this is true?

ok i'm gonna check for air leaks this coming weekend.

it only has problems on idle.

the nissan dealer here in town diagnosed the problem as a MAF sensor failure. replaced the MAF and still had the same problem. will take it back in to them for them to re-diagnose.

so the nissan dealer gave up. they didn't however take out the air-duct. I decided to take it all apart myself and see if there were any leaks while at the same time cleaning up my k&n drop in filter.

I think I figured it out!!!

So I took apart the engine's factory air intake system and the resonator of the air duct was broken and hinged.

I'm gonna replace it with a z-tube and hopefully tomorrow my car will be back to 100%.

SUCCESS!!! Once replaced the engine runs PERRRRFECT!

Good. Glad you got that figured out.

I was gonna say..the only reason I have heard of people really stalling without major mods would be from a intake leak. It drops the idle.

Finally I found this thread, I just started having the same issue, but I am not throwing any codes what so ever and like the OP, my car is otherwise running perfectly. In fact it seems peppier with this nicer cooler air we're getting.

Anyhow, I guess I'll check my intake path, I do know that ever since I bought the car, one of the latches has been missing on the air box, but this problem did not start until recently (so 40k miles later). I'm due for a new air filter, so I'll go pick up a purolator tonight and see how that goes. I just hope I dont have to replace the MAF.

It stalled on me this morning and just like the OP, if it wasnt for the firm steering I would not have noticed.

My other guess was bad choice of oil. I recently switched to Shells Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40 and it seems to be working well, unless of course it has something to do with this recent issue. For now I'll do the air intake stuff and wait to see how it does for these next 1500 miles before my oil is due for a change. If it is still there, I'll go back to a convential full synthetic 5w30.

I also just found that it could be related to the crank position sensor, but again Im not throwing any codes so I wont know that until I do.

I found the culprit to my issue! Today while changing my air filter and cleaning the engine bay I discovered a large tear in the OEM MAF-to-intake tube hose. So now I just need to order a replacement for it and it should be fine.

http://www.photodump.org/stored30/maf-hose.jpg