Has anyone done a dyno on gains from stroking it out or going for more bore?

 

i hate to sound out of place here, but i know what FI (forced induction) means. I'm lost on the term UpRev. Can someone shed some light on the term?

 

Uprev is company that provides software(OSIRIS) for the ability to tune for our motors.

rev-up motors are 2005 and 2006 Manual transmission motors for our car. They differ slightly from 2003-4 and 2007..

Churches Dyno dynos high, it's very forgiving. Check out my album, my dyno sheet is on there. 304.9 rwhp with 285lbs tq.

On churches dyno of course. But who cares. If you like the feel of ur car, numbers don't really matter. If u wanna go fast for cheap, buy a vw bug and build a motor for like 5k.

 

thanks for the info.. bro.. i guess i don't have a rev-up motor.. cuz i have an AT 07 coupe

 

Can someone send me a private message how to get a tuned from Church Automotive with Osiris Uprev for $700? Or Church sells them as a package deal?

I read it from another thread but not quite sure.


Thanks

 

Goto website, get phone number, call to make an appointment, then show up.

No pm needed..

 

sounds like one would be better off going F/I or swapping in a more powerful engine from the start...

 

Yea but I don't think people are ready to spend the cash or deal with the headache of going fi right off the bat. Geeez. There's enough headache just getting regular bolt ons installed. It starts off with intake and exhaust, then people always want moar. Well not always. NA is the safest way IMO to get a lil more go outta ur ride. Reliabilty is also a factor. NA and bolt ons are basically just very minor sound and power adders..

 

Bring it to GTM and get it stroked to 4.2

 

^ that's wut I'm talkin about...

 

What kind of numbers are the N/A 4.2L motors putting down?

 

You want 300 RWHP? Add lots of stickers... 7-10 stickers placed properly can get you over that. Have to get the good stickers though.. not the cheap ones, so be prepared to spend at least $20.

 

^^ not true. Stickers add too much weight resulting in a power loss. You lose 10rwhp for each sticker.

 

If you're just looking for a measurement of your HPenis, give me $5 and 5min with photoshop and I'll make you dyno 400HP.

 

Most people who want at least 300WHP end up going FI since it ends up being cheaper.

Problem is that (from all experience that I've seen) the VQ35 is an NA motor, it wants to be pushed NA.

Going FI creates lots of issues. I do not know of ANYONE (including myself) that has gone FI with even a very conservative kit such as stillen SC, and not have issues. Everything from belt squeal and tensioner issues to popped motors and poor tunes etc...
I do not trust the VQ being FI, regardless of how it's built or who built it. Lots of companies build these motors, and there is a track record of getting good solid numbers out of it. But even with all the internals and good tune etc I've seen VERY VERY few that have lasted over the years under normal conditions. (show cars that drive all of 200 miles a year don't count, nor does a dyno queen that dynos once and sits in a garage looking pretty). I'm talking about real world driven FI VQ motors. Now, I know people have done FI and drive the car with no issues, but the vast majority of us FI guys have run into issues some silly just annoying as all hell and other major and detrimental. I'm a big fan for NA on this car, it's a much more fun car to drive because you can push it without having to fear the reaper. this is just my personal opinion, sorry for threadjacking for a moment.