Clutch pedal won't engage
 

Recently had my clutch pedal give out on me while driving off the freeway, clutch and stuck at the bottom when pushed in comes back up half way and doesn't engage and if i try to force the stick into gear it grinds. I got it home tried bleeding the slave cylinder and went through almost all 32oz of dot 3 and still have the same problem, any solutions ? would appreciate any input thanks

Probably a failed master or slave cylinder. Possibly lost the TO bearing, has it been making a lot of bad noises from the bellhousing area when you pressed the clutch in?

the bell housing is relatively quite, only started after i got my clutch replaced, do you think changing the slave cylinder will solve the problem? i seen a post that said to get Z1 stainless steel line as well have you had any experience getting yours to function properly after a new slave cylinder install? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...452e7f86b.jpeg

The only issue I had on the last clutch I put in a G was from me not paying attention to the direction of the TO bearing spring, it didn't work at all.

Yours worked fine, then it didn't, thus something probably broke.

i had the problem soon as i got the car back from the shop because the idiots there didn't secure the clutch slave cylinder properly and my mechanic tightened it bled it and it was good. car was oos for about a year and shortly after i got the engine swapped and car back on the road it happened again, do you still think it's the TO bearing or could it possibly be the csc?

It's hard to say without actually taking things apart. Since your clutch pedal DID work initially I wouldn't immediately suspect the TO bearing. I would start by bleeding the clutch to make sure there's no air in the line, that's the first logical step. Next would be replacing the slave cylinder since it usually has a higher failure rate than the master.

Typically when you have a clutch replaced in a car you replace EVERYTHING including the CMC/CSC, fluid, and the flexible section of line to the CSC because those items will probably not live through a second clutch.

noted, already tried bleeding now gonna start replacing CSC, CMC & lines. thanks for the help much appreciated

changed the cmc and csc still no luck getting any pressure to build up, is there any idiot proof vacuum bleeder you would recommend? only things left to do is clutch line and vacuum bleed

I use a Motive bleeder with a generic adapter to mount on top of the CMC reservoir.

do you mind posting a link or model number, prices are all over the place. also where do you get a generic adapter to mount on top? would i be able to use this to bleed brakes as well?

The brakes has an exact fit cap for it.

0107 is the reservoir and cap adapter for Nissan

1101 is the universal adapter for the clutch.

I recommend taking a small block of wood or something else to put UNDER the reservoir so the chain is at a better angle on the universal one. Otherwise the reservoir is so short the chain is at a bad angle and it won't seal up properly. Don't overtighten the universal one either, you want it just snug enough to stop leaking, if you tighten it too much it warps the gasket and starts leaking again.

Stuff a LOT of rags down under the reservoir before you get started, those universal ones are pretty notorious for leaking a little, just clean up the mess and wash it down thoroughly when you're done. Be careful to not use spraying water though so you don't get water in the ABS relay and ABS electronics.

thanks for all the help, ended up using the brake bleeder kit from harbor freight for $35 and it worked like a charm finally cars running and driving again now onto my next issue lol once again thanks for the help much appreciated

Awesome, glad you got it all fixed.