G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion - G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07

My new front lip and sides

Fidayeen — Wed, 13 May 2026 14:32:29 GMT

Hey everyone,

Just got it installed, wanted your opinion if it looked "ricey"

Thinking about attaching the rods, but he said he's seen bumpers get ripped.

Mysterious Click Sound, Usual Suspects Out.

Magneu — Tue, 12 May 2026 03:22:28 GMT

So I just recently replaced my rear axles/hubs with the Z1 370Z/G37 kit (and then further had to get the Kawasaki Castle Nut/Torqen-style cotter pin and washer kit because the stock Nissan aluminum "hat" nuts are garbage, and I thought the click was that at the time). Hubs were on the way out and I saw an opportunity to upgrade/get beefier parts.

HOWEVER, my original (2005 5AT Coupe) axles/hubs had the infamous click/rattle, which did go away with the new parts...except I now have a new click whenever I let off the throttle (can't hear it when I go onto throttle). It's a fairly loud (can hear it with the windows down on an open street, but not with the windows up), single click/tap, sounding like metal-on-metal...but I'm at a total loss. New hubs, new axles, everything torqued to spec, Blue loctite, can still hear it with the brakes lightly pressed at lower speeds (to try to rule out pads moving around), new parking brake hardware on both sides...with my OG axles/hubs the click was just when going from Park into Drive/Reverse, but this is 90% of the time I let off throttle. Started when I did axles/hubs (I'm 90% certain, unless it's the same one from before the axles/hubs but it was masked by the hub noise back then), but I've double-checked every fastener and new piece of hardware.

Aftermarket stuff back there is sways, GK Tech differential brace, wheels, parking brake hardware (and Les Schwab calipers/brake hardware, but they all seem fine); I'm inclined think think it's something in the driveline either where the driveshaft connects to the differential (or further downstream), but I've spent so long chasing this down that I'm going nuts. Axle splines were coated in copper grease when installing.

I did manage to trace it (I think) to somewhere between the differential/wheel when in Park/engine off by pushing the car forward/backwards gently; I got a single click, and then it refused to make the sound again, making me think it's something in the driveline that works loose, clicks and becomes "secure" when I go off throttle, and repeats. I also heard it when coasting off-throttle in the garage, and the passenger-rear wheel went over a small bump. The vehicle has new Tein Flex on it, but again, I've triple-checked all torque specs, and it makes no noise in all other cases.

And to clarify, torque spec for the axle nut of a 370Z should be 75 ft/lbs, yes? I've seen some people with the same hardware do all the way up to 130 ft/lbs, but I was going by the torque specs Z1 quoted/the FSM says.

Anyone have any pointers? I'm going nuts trying to track this down.

2006 G35 coupe front and rear suspension

golanb73 — Mon, 20 Apr 2026 15:54:50 GMT

Hello Everyone,

Need some help/opinions on front struts for now. I am a stock guy so looking for that stock ride I fell in love with. I recently replaced stock set up with Monroe quick set up and it is/was horrible. I am thinking of putting back my stock coils which I believe are fine with some new struts. Was thinking about Tien. All feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!!

horrid brakes (repost)

palaricky — Tue, 14 Apr 2026 01:34:28 GMT

I've spent an inconvenient amount of time and money trying to bleed my brakes myself. I did it one time over the summer with the "standard" procedure (at this time I didn't know that these cars had a weird brake bleeding sequence) and got a perfect pedal, seemingly completely by accident. A few months ago though, one of my wheels went into a ditch, and I guess it dislodged a bubble because my brake lines because they've been persistently spongey since. I bought a harbor freight vacuum bleeder (did nothing), and then i tried buying external check valves to prevent air from getting sucked back into the bleeder screw (two cycles of the nissan sequence and the "traditional" sequence changed nothing). I now have few options left:
Buy a pressure bleeder
Do a proper two-man bleeding procedure, and then cycle the ABS by getting up to speed then slamming the brakes.
Buy an ABS capable scan tool, and cycle the ABS solenoids.
Or completely fold and bring it to a brake technician.
ChatGPT is firm set on the idea that there's air in the ABS module (I really hate AI, it's so confidently wrong in so many things), and then redneck bleeding the ABS (slamming on the brakes a few times then bleeding again) could fix my issue. I'm not 101% sure it is the ABS module but it's seeming like the biggest possibility right now. I have seen someone mention years ago on these forums that you don't actually need a scan tool when bleeding the brakes, but I haven't seen anyone else agree. What would be my best option here? Get a motive power bleeder? Have a buddy help me? Buy the scan tool and return it? Or fold and bring it to a technician.

what to say

FROSTY78 — Wed, 08 Apr 2026 21:57:50 GMT

I ate a curb last night and cracked my LF rim I went to NY and grabbed a set of rear 18's and moved my rear 17's up front. I had to reset the TPMS system afterwards to get the system to recognize the new sensors.

'New' 2004 G35 90k mi :) :) :)

g35_california — Sat, 04 Apr 2026 22:28:24 GMT

G'day G35drivers. I have always stuck to 4-runners and Tacomas and just got my mom's handmedown (to me) 2004 G35 automatic (1 owner) which was always garaged and is 100% OEM stock aside from the window motors and lock actuators I just replaced. Replacement R35 door checks on order from ebay based on advice here.

G35s are awesome and this thing needs an update. Given the low miles and all scheduled maint., my plans are to first get a repaint and new leather on all seats. Aside from that, there seems like a world to navigate here from the beginner's perspective.

From those who have gone through it, can I pose some questions from the perspective of if you were to go through it again... do you have any ASAP recommendations to clean this thing up?

The Kuruma Z front bumper looks cool. Should I get that installed with the repaint job? Is there a splitter that should be a part of that?

Is the conceptZ rear diffuser worth adding? Is that painted black or does it need painting?

The OEM rims are highly rashed and seemingly powdercoated silver. Is there an OEM polished chrome version? I googled but didn't find the same thing but chromed.

Have also seen I should look into conceptZ urethane bushing kits. Anything else basic starter like that? AFAIK the motor/trans is in top shape and does not burn/leak oil.

I was going to try to restore the headlights. Is there a preferred new replacement for these?

I am looking around for build threads for inspiration. Please let me know of any good build threads to draw from. Would really like to clean and tighten the whole thing up. Just started looking at suspension etc.

Cheers.