G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

Poor gas mileage

per1277 — Fri, 17 Apr 2026 14:05:31 GMT

My wife's 05 G35X gets 10 MPG the last time I checked for in city driving. New spark plugs, new oil, seems to run very well. Book calls for 16-17 in the city. Anyone checked theirs??

Need help tracking down a vibration when coasting at 65mph

Papijandro — Thu, 16 Apr 2026 02:10:35 GMT

**Long and thorough explanation of a post**

Recently bought an 06 G35x 181k, I replaced all the fluids (OEM) and double checked their levels. Gave the car a good overall inspection of its AWD system and confident enough to drive it at highway speeds. After say 10 days of driving I noticed a vibration coming from underneath the midline of the car. It only happens when I let off the gas at about 65 and the speed decreases to about 60mph. It has brand new tires and a very good alignment.
I�ve checked forums about the front propeller shaft completely getting destroyed and mine is not bad to where it�s binding, however service manual calls for a 0.0mm tolerance in axial play of the u-joint of the front propeller shaft. I got under the vehicle and checked for any play to the u-joint but I didn�t have a dial caliper and I couldn�t produce any budge by hand unless trying with a pry bar but then again I�m unclear if I spotted a significant amount of play.
I�m not suspicious of an issue with the rear end because I would have picked those symptoms up at lower/different speeds and loads however I am open to discussing different experiences and opinions of what this might be. Also, what have you all noticed in drivability issues relating to worn bushings or the carrier bearings for the rear

horrid brakes (repost)

palaricky — Tue, 14 Apr 2026 01:34:28 GMT

I've spent an inconvenient amount of time and money trying to bleed my brakes myself. I did it one time over the summer with the "standard" procedure (at this time I didn't know that these cars had a weird brake bleeding sequence) and got a perfect pedal, seemingly completely by accident. A few months ago though, one of my wheels went into a ditch, and I guess it dislodged a bubble because my brake lines because they've been persistently spongey since. I bought a harbor freight vacuum bleeder (did nothing), and then i tried buying external check valves to prevent air from getting sucked back into the bleeder screw (two cycles of the nissan sequence and the "traditional" sequence changed nothing). I now have few options left:
Buy a pressure bleeder
Do a proper two-man bleeding procedure, and then cycle the ABS by getting up to speed then slamming the brakes.
Buy an ABS capable scan tool, and cycle the ABS solenoids.
Or completely fold and bring it to a brake technician.
ChatGPT is firm set on the idea that there's air in the ABS module (I really hate AI, it's so confidently wrong in so many things), and then redneck bleeding the ABS (slamming on the brakes a few times then bleeding again) could fix my issue. I'm not 101% sure it is the ABS module but it's seeming like the biggest possibility right now. I have seen someone mention years ago on these forums that you don't actually need a scan tool when bleeding the brakes, but I haven't seen anyone else agree. What would be my best option here? Get a motive power bleeder? Have a buddy help me? Buy the scan tool and return it? Or fold and bring it to a technician.

Have an exhaust leak when should I be concerned.

i3lake8 — Mon, 13 Apr 2026 11:00:28 GMT

My friend who's a mechanic can hear an exhaust leak where hes guessing is by my y-pipe based on sound im a new car guy so to be honest didnt really notice anything until he said something. He said its like 100% very minor but im young and just started full time so 400$ to fix the leak is not much but still hurts a bit. Im worried mostly about my MPG as gas in canada right now is ridiculous not so much about preformance because i plan on getting a custom exhaust. I want to know if its okay to wait till i get a custom exhaust or if i should get the leak fixed pronto. Is it olay to leave it is this a horrible idea to leave it? My delema is were not 100% sure if its an exhaust leak i just bought the car quite literally yesterday. And had it saftied by the dealership. Exhaust leak is part of the safety so it shouldve been fixed if it is an exhaust leak and is under the 36day or whatever it is warranty, the dealership is an hour away from me and is a pain in the butt to go to. They are lenient and probably would just send the money or something if I could prove its an exhaust leak. Im just sort of in the middle shoukd I go to the dealership to check if it truly is an exhaust leak and have them fix it, bite the bullet on the hour long drive. Or go to an exhaust place and have them look at it and if they confirm its a leak call the dealership and get them to pay for it. Any insight would be helpful thank you in advance!

FS: Megan Racing Cat Back VQ35 Sedan 2003-2006

Javier Abendano — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 19:39:53 GMT

3� Catback Exhaust for G35 Sedan, 2003-2006.

will ship $200 OBO

FS: Circuit Werks Y-Pipe

Javier Abendano — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 19:36:07 GMT

Resonated Y-Pipe for a G35 or 350Z. Outputs to a 3� single exit.

Will Ship, $250 OBO

FS: JWT Pop Charger

Javier Abendano — Sun, 12 Apr 2026 19:32:53 GMT

JWT pop charger, great cold air intake with the heat shield for any vehicle with a VQ35DE. In decent condition, heat shield is missing of the fins that help seal off the air intake.

will ship $100 OBO

what to say

FROSTY78 — Wed, 08 Apr 2026 22:03:15 GMT

I was at McDonalds late last night in the drive-thru and a 96-98 Mustang GT was behind me revving his engine real loud. He shouted out to me and said, "hey man, I can take your Infiniti, easily". I asked him what he had because I know stock that year mustang was slow, but modded they can be a beast. He said he had DOHC I'm not sure if they came with that stock but he said they didn't and that he added it... o well, i figured it was 3 in the morning and we could run up to 70mph on a empty 4 lane road.

I'm not much of a street racer, haven't raced on the street with my car yet, but I thought under the conditions it wouldn't be that bad. We pulled up next to each other and I counted down and I just smoked him...bad. Up to 70 probably about 2 1/2 to 3 car lenghts and then we slowed down and lined up again and this time i let him get the jump on me and I still pretty much owned him, easily. He did his ricer fly-bye and I went home.

what to say

FROSTY78 — Wed, 08 Apr 2026 21:57:50 GMT

I ate a curb last night and cracked my LF rim I went to NY and grabbed a set of rear 18's and moved my rear 17's up front. I had to reset the TPMS system afterwards to get the system to recognize the new sensors.

'New' 2004 G35 90k mi :) :) :)

g35_california — Sat, 04 Apr 2026 22:28:24 GMT

G'day G35drivers. I have always stuck to 4-runners and Tacomas and just got my mom's handmedown (to me) 2004 G35 automatic (1 owner) which was always garaged and is 100% OEM stock aside from the window motors and lock actuators I just replaced. Replacement R35 door checks on order from ebay based on advice here.

G35s are awesome and this thing needs an update. Given the low miles and all scheduled maint., my plans are to first get a repaint and new leather on all seats. Aside from that, there seems like a world to navigate here from the beginner's perspective.

From those who have gone through it, can I pose some questions from the perspective of if you were to go through it again... do you have any ASAP recommendations to clean this thing up?

The Kuruma Z front bumper looks cool. Should I get that installed with the repaint job? Is there a splitter that should be a part of that?

Is the conceptZ rear diffuser worth adding? Is that painted black or does it need painting?

The OEM rims are highly rashed and seemingly powdercoated silver. Is there an OEM polished chrome version? I googled but didn't find the same thing but chromed.

Have also seen I should look into conceptZ urethane bushing kits. Anything else basic starter like that? AFAIK the motor/trans is in top shape and does not burn/leak oil.

I was going to try to restore the headlights. Is there a preferred new replacement for these?

I am looking around for build threads for inspiration. Please let me know of any good build threads to draw from. Would really like to clean and tighten the whole thing up. Just started looking at suspension etc.

Cheers.

New here

Infiniti35 — Thu, 02 Apr 2026 00:49:26 GMT

Hello , new here , while researching upgrades for the 2007 G35S sedan I just bought found this cool site , I also own a 2015 Q40 .

2005 G35 Sport Sedan struts and shocks

toddalbinsong35 — Mon, 30 Mar 2026 20:33:41 GMT

Hi Everybody!
New here and needing some info. I'm starting to restore my rear wheel drive G35 sport sedan. My wife bought it new and it has been garage kept so in great condition for her age. Wife getting a new ride so time for me to start restoring some issues on the G. I cant find any front struts for the sport sedan. Are they the same struts as for the sport coupe? Also if I wanted to cheap out and/or have a more cush ride could I put the sedan base model rear wheel drive Struts and shocks on the car? Thanks in advance!

Todd R

Issues w/ ECU, O2 sensors running rich

MichaelAQ — Mon, 30 Mar 2026 15:38:27 GMT

Hey all, hoping i can get some help w/ my G35X. I got an 06' G35X with about 138k miles about a year and a half ago, been running alright, fun car to drive as a first car. Haven't really had many issues come up asides from having to replace the power steering hose and replacing a failing starter. Its got a valve cover gasket leak which im about to have replaced soon. But my fuel economy i feel like has always been pretty low. I do about 95% city driving but even at the start i was getting around 11-12mpg. But up until recently the car has been feeling heavy when driving low speeds (under 25mph), startups feel like its choking up on fuel when cranking, and i can smell fuel coming through the air vents and exhaust. Got two new codes come up when this all started, P0138 and P0158 which i assume has to do with the fuel running rich flagging the two bank sensors. Havent driven it in about a month and a half since my fuel economy dropped to around 8-9mpg and with gas prices and im not trying to drop $55 a week to fill up. Does anyone has any idea or suggestions as to what could be the main problem? Im pretty new to the community so forgive me if i missed any information or if im just wording anything weird. Thanks!!

These brakes are pissing me off

palaricky — Mon, 23 Mar 2026 00:59:44 GMT

Head Unit or Amp? Somethings not right.

MSG35Shadow — Sat, 21 Mar 2026 23:32:03 GMT

My '07 G35 Coupe with the Bose and navigation system has a malfunction that I can't seem to figure out with any amount of online reading or youtubing, which brought me here. Any time I try to use the radio, or play a CD, the audio either pops or makes static noise, gets stuck on FULL BLAST, or flat out doesn't work. Also turning up or down the volume changes which speakers the signal is coming from. I know the speakers aren't the issue, because when the sound system decides it wants to work, the speakers are nice and clear.

I checked all of the connections, including the Amp connections, and everything looks ok, nothing loose, no debris in the ports. I did notice that there is a multi prong, flat white connector that goes from the head unit and into the face plate that was loose, so I unplugged it, and replaced the tape. I also noticed I lose my heat and AC controls if that remains unplugged. Plugged that back in, Heat and AC work, sound problems still persist.

So what I would like to know,
- Are there aftermarket units I can directly replace the stereo unit with?
- Do I have to find a unit that also controls the Heat and AC?
- Can I bypass the stereo with a new unit, without removing the old unit, to keep the Heat and AC control
- What can I do to confirm if its the Amp or Stereo unit?