My FI process - Vortech
 

Well today marks the day that I finally started taking baby steps towards the FI world today. I have been trying to read up as much as possible, and all the info. I know is from these forums. I wanted to start a thread for my purchases/intall so I could document the process, as well as recieve updated feedback and /or concern. I'm going to be going with the Vortech Full kit for starters, and from there I could always upgrade (fuel system, injectors, engine management, etc.) for more power if I want it. So today I purchased some of the smaller things, that I thought would help for a safe set up..


Nismo low temp. thermostat
JWT oil pan spacer
Stillen Engine Dampener
NGK 1 step colder plugs
Fluidampr Harmonic Damper


I've been looking around for gauges, and I've heard that the 3 most important gauges are Boost, Oil pressure, and A/F. Well I don't want to do any custom gauge pods, so I'm pretty sure i'm going with the 3 gauge Apillar pod. I'm having trouble find a company that makes all 3 gauges. I want the gauges to look the same or atleast match to give a nice appearance. Any help or info. regarding the process to FI would be greatly appreciated. Also, any help about gauges would be nice too.

I would return it all and run!!! No need to have two of us with the vortech. Forget your dreams Swatson...MOVE ON!!! Peace Out

6-10-06!!!

hey i would go through autometer, they have many various types of guages and they have matching ones too in various sizes.

check it out http://autometer.com/

May I suggest you go with a fuel preasure or coolant temp gauge instead of the oil preasure gauge . You will more than likely have trouble with over heating or your aux. fuel system than with oil preasure .

I would also say fug the Nismo low temp. thermostat. Whats the point? all a thermostat does is open when the car gets up to temp. Once its open its open. This wont help the car run cooler.

^^too late...he already bought it

Whats with the thermostat, I have had no issues with the stock one also whats with all the dampener stuff....is all that necc.??

Yeah, I already purchased the thermostat, I figure it can't hurt right?

I have heard great things about the Fluidampr Harmonic Damper, so therefore I'm going with it, and the Stillen engine dampener is just something I've been meaning to get anyways.

Booger- thanks for the heads up. i'll be sure to look into it.

Nothing dont let anyone talk you into one. Dampener is like a lighter pulley. You dont really need it.

^^^caskyline said he jumped from 8 to 8.9 PSI just from the fluidampr

The fluidamper is not a lightened pulley.It is a more balanced & dampened pulley.Being that a supercharger runs off the belt,I wanted to make sure every thing ran smooth.A smoother runing crank could possibly mean a longer lasting engine.How could people say a oil pressure gauge is not necesasry? Sure there is a low pressure warning light,but by time that comes on it may be too late.Supercharger longevity is based on oil circulation,So if you have low pressure you would want to know.A thermostat can lower temp.it does open earlier which can help out with not as much heat soaking.My neighbor has a 350Z Greddy TT,after installing the Nismo thermostat his engine temp stays 20 degrees cooler consistantly than before. Good luck John on your adventure.

yeah if you have a hot running engine, a lower temp thermostat allows coolant into the engine sooner to prevent hot spots from happening before the coolant can actually cool them off

I don't see how it'd hurt unless you drive the Z in the snow a lot at low temps in the winter



I don't think the fluidamper would hurt to have, but I think it's more of a thing for running the car at really high rpms. When you run at high rpms, you're only there briefly. If the engine ran to 8000 rpms or higher, I'd really consider it very strongly. Otherwise, I'd say the engine will blow because of FI long before the balanced forged crankshaft goes out.

the rods or pistons are much weaker than the crankshaft - which has been proven to be able to rev up to 8000 rpms (with a fluidamper) with bigbri's 750whp TT Z

The new rev up engine with 7000rpm redline hasn't had the crankshaft changed to my knowledge from the 287hp engine

I know of one guy with a turbo who claims the KJR pulley ate his crankshaft and he hasn't given any details about it

If it becomes an issue and your stock crank pulley cracks like a couple people's have with turbos, then I'd replace it with the fluidamper. One shop said the KJR pulley was better balanced than the stock crank pulley. Have you guys ever held the stock crank pulley? It's pretty horrible quality IMO. Definetly not created very precisely with all the ragged/rough edges on the spokes.

I personally love the faster shifting and faster reving of the light crank pulley whether it gives any more hp or not - which a lot of people claim it does show up on the dyno as 5-8whp depending on if it's an underdrive pulley or regular diameter.

If the engine vibrates more with the lightweight pulley and they don't like it, what were they expecting when they started putting "race" parts on their street car?

Got ya on the fluidamper. But I still cant see the point in the thermostat. I do see what you saying BUT when a car gets up to temp it gets up to temp. Opening sooner wont change that. If you guys are that concerned with it and live where it doesnt get too cold then just pull the thermostat out. Its held in the housing by three screws. You also might want to try water wetter. Ive ran it in all my bikes and turbo cars. This stuff will really drop the temp!

Yes it is hard to understand the thermostat.I do not have the Nismo one my self either,I didn't think it could help much either.I did put in water wetter though.But after the claims my neighbor made ,I began to wonder about it.Another thing about the crank pulley,it's not about breaking the oem pulley,but about fatigue on the internals ( crank,bearings,rods ) over time fatigue and vibration can cause damage.It's not allways just one or two hard runs on an engine that causes it to break.The vibration on a crank is not really going to felt by the driver,but the internals will over time.

The car comes with a (highly generalized) coolant temp gauge stock. I think id rather know that my car is being oil starved than having a gauge that tells me something i already know.