Building a new project G35 Coupe for FI
 

Hello Everyone,

So as the Title suggests Im going to be starting a new build project..Im about fresh off a DSM build for my young sons (98 Eclipse GS Paul Walker Replica N/A) and now Im wanting to build something FI for myself. I have thought about SRT 4 / Focus ST / 2g Eclipse GST or GSX etc. but then I thought about the G35 coupe and after some initial research it seems like a no brainer.

So for the base platform Im going to be hunting for a 2005 November manufacture date or newer as the platform. Why? because I read some where that those cars got the better more beefier synchros in the manual trans which is what I want..

So that is the base now the plan..

I will go with a single turbo setup on low PSI (6-7 lbs) while I build a forged motor. With that said Im really only looking to make 400 rwhp but I want forged so that I can romp on it all day long as my daily summer driver and get good life out of it.. (increase the boost to around 10-15) with a good tune on 93 oct pump....
Back to the research.. Ive read that there are HR motors and non HR motors and that the HR motors have the cooling mod built into the block from the factory and in the non HR you have to get the block machined for the HR mod..

Question time:

• I found the link on the my350z form with the PDF of the gaskets and such but there are no measurements on how far down into the block the cut is and such anyone know? I also found a link with pics showing were to make the cut.. basically it seems trace out the hole on the new head gasket and go to work but its usually not that simple..
• Is the depth of the work even with the lip of the cylinder ?
• Using the VIN# is there a way to tell if the motor is HR or non HR?
• What about the trans ? If im looking to only make 400 rwhp but want to romp on it daily, is there any upgrades I should do to the trans? From what I have read the motor and the trans are very stout and the trans should be able to handle 400rwp without any modifications other then maybe a decent clutch kit.. Whats the consensus about that?

Back to research. Ive read that the weakest point in the exhaust is the cats.. ( i plan to go hi flow) still not sure what exhaust to go with.. I see some builds with only 1 out the back and others with 2.. I like to keep it with 2 out the back.. Whats your recommendations ?

Other then that is the same old game.. upgrade bushings, upgrade suspension, upgrade brakes etc. Although I am going to put a really big obnoxious wing on mine because thats me. lol

Im going to go for the brightest white with jet black windows, black racing rims with the rubber showing the white letters.. I think I want red calipers and red underglows. Upgrade to halos for the headlights LED for the tails. Good stereo 1000w class d with a single 12,, Drive it until im dead (I will be 41 in april)

Anyways my name is Wes and this is my plan..

Probably the last car I ever car to build so Im gonna go all out and drive it until the wheels fall off. and if i can fix it, or find parts for it anymore, use it for target practice..

Now whos got a coke zero and some hot wings?

Just keep in mind the 4G63 is one of those rare motors that's both incredibly INCREDIBLY stout AND is easy to make cheap HP. Building the G is very cost prohibitive but it's definitely a nicer looking car.

HR motor is super easy to identify if you can get a picture of the engine bay, the twin TB's and intake tubes are a dead giveaway. Are you talking about looking for a coupe or sedan? The coupe was never available with the HR. The sedan was in 2007-2008 but I don't believe it was ever mated to a 6MT transmission. Someone might chime in and correct me on that though.

The HR gasket isn't REQUIRED but it's definitely a better design cooling flow and the additional fire ring, if you're going to have the heads off to replace the bolts to stronger studs then definitely upgrade the gasket.

Scroll down to post 37 on this thread, definitely something you can machine out yourself.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/460620-cometic-headgasket-or-hr-headgasket-2.html#post9134079

Thanks brother.. yeah that's the exact thread I was talking about in my post.. so it seems it's just those 2 areas and I can use a dremel tool to grind those areas down a bit to allow easy flow of coolant.. ok yeah that's easy enough..

yeah I'm going for the coupe.. tired of 4 doors.. I wasent sure on HR info so thanks for clearing that up for me.. this 4G motors are also extremely hard to find these days..and these Nissan motors and trans are easy to find and from what I have been seeing, pretty strong.. even just a single low boost bolt on kit on stock block and trans running as a daily at 350 to 375 rwhp.. that's even plenty for me to get speeding tickets.

I'm not a track guy.. just like to have fun passing people on the highway a fun summer daily driver to work and some car shows with a bit of boost..
the turbo kits do not seem to hard to install myself along as take time go with 660 injectors walbro 255, boost control, wideband and fuel pressure regulator and a tune..

Personally if I were looking for a JDM car to boost and be reliable I'd get something with a VQ37VHR, those can run 500 horsepower for over 100k stock so should have no problem lasting at your power levels.... and you would have a much higher ceiling for when you eventually go for gold.

I'm curious, what is it about the VQ that makes you want to keep it as opposed to something like a turbo 5.3 swap, which would be easier, more reliable, and make more power for probably slightly more $$

Good Question Lightning.. I want to stay with the VQ for a few reasons. Probably most important is the fact that the engines are readily available, Aftermarket parts is very very robust and relatively cheap. From all of the threads I have read, I would guestimate about 80% are positive reviews on the reliability of the motor on low boost. and 99% positive when forged bottom end.

While Im looking to build a sweet 2 door coupe ride for myself, Iam still restricted to a budget (kids, house, vacations etc) I have found full kits for bottom end forged for 1800, decent turbo kit for 2500, plus i have a G35 tuner about 50 miles away from me..

Plus I want to spend alittle money on the trans and a very very good paint job..

The key is to find a good base to start from that has not been beat up or rode hard and put away wet. I have seen some decent deals on low milage coupes with a little rear or front end damage go for 1800 buy it now on car auction sites,, Like I said im not looking for the track machine, Just some fun boost on my way to work from work and the occasional road trip so i can clear traffic and turn a few heads while doing it.. so 350rwhp to 400rwhp is all i need like I said thats more then enough to get speeding tickets, increased auto insurance and points on my license.. perfect mid life crisis build for the 40 year old dad of 2 young boys and a b**ch of a wife.. ( when she is ragging)

Here is a question that the answer seems to be eluding me today. I want to find another engine for the G35 to build as im enjoying a bolt on turbo.. Would the VQ DE from an Altima work? Same block same heads?

Or do I need to find another motor from a G35 coupe?

Nope you need a RWD car VQ35DE or a Rev-up VQ35DE, whatever your car came stock with

Yeah there are quite a few different motors that are all VQ35DE but you need one from a G, a 350Z, an M35, or a FX35.

I'll see if I can dig up the old thread that had photos of the differences in mount locations and such. It wasn't from G35DRIVER I think it was over on the MAXIMA.ORG website but I'll try to look tommorow morning.

On top of that there's 2 major variations of the engine that were used in the G/350Z. One has intake-only variable timing and the other (rev-up version) has intake/exhaust variable timing. The short block is the same except for the oil pump and a baffle in the oil pan but the heads are VERY different.

Thank you guys.. it seems best just to find a spare motor from a g35.. no problem..

Ok here's that thread with pictures showing the difference between the FWD and RWD blocks

https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...s-lengthy.html

It was also put into some of the newer model Pathfinder and... QX60 ???? vehicles and I have no idea if those blocks would work. I suspect they would since it's still RWD mounting but iirc there was possibly an increased deck height? You would definitely need to research this if you end up finding one of those motors.

Ha awesome.. now I know what to look for.. but then this brings up another question..

how do you know, or when buying a g35 csn you tell if it has the HR motor? I assume the difference between the HR and non HR is the block work and the MAF sensor? Maybe a lighter flywheel?

I'm watching this youtube channel motordyne g35 a d this dude has an NA HR g35 makjng 350 hp at the crank.. lol that's awesome.. I might just stick with NA after watching this guy

He has some well made videos and a very nice car but his attitude triggers me, probably just a personality conflict though as many folks aren't bothered by it.

As for identifying an HR or DE if the intake manifold are on the car it's super easy, the HR has two throttle bodies and the DE only has one. If it doesn't have the intake on you can still easily identify one over the other with the timing cover, the section over the cam actuator looks completely different.

If you have them stripped down to the block it's 100% unmistakeable, the HR block is significantly overbuilt compared to the DE. In any case if there is ever doubt just look at the bellhousing, different bolt pattern, easy to tell them apart even if just looking at pictures instead of inspecting in person.