Turbo or supercharger for g35
 

Hey so I'm kind of a noob here but can handle my way around cars well enough. I have an '06 g35 6mt with about 50 000 km on the engine. What would be better for good power and reliability, a turbo or supercharger?

Turbo for power, supercharger for reliability.

What is the difference in power. I read up on it and said I could get about 450 with a supercharger.

Peak WHP doesn't tell the whole story.

What all is it the look for then?
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Basically you need to look up some Dyno charts from each type of system. LOTS of them, with the.modifications you're considering. S/C systems tend to have a very steep peak shape to their power curve so you are making considerably less power at low rpms compared to a turbo system.

There's a thing called "area under the curve". Turbo systems typically have a much flatter line for their dyno chart because boost can be built at a lower rpm and thus more available power at lower rpm.

Try to look only at Dyno charts that w're on a stock long block, once you beef the F out of the rods and can build a ton of boost and run a huge slow building turbo then the chart starts to develop a steep curve as well.

However a turbo setup is significantly more complicated than a simple centrifugal S/C which leads to more potential complications. They can also make significantly more power and it's easier to bend rods by pushing too hard on the boost when tuning.

That makes sense. I think what I am looking for would be a supercharger then. I'm not looking for insane power, just a little upgrade from what I have. A S/C seems less complicated.

Correct me if I'm wrong but there is less chance of significant problems with a S/C it seems. As well the top end would still have to be beefed up yes?

No, look up the Vortec V3 kit for the G35. It's the most painless and reliable system. The stock long block can handle 400whp so just don't tune it for more than that.

Absolutely true on the torque difference and the area under the curve. My Q50 Red Sport with factory tune and aftermarket exhaust making ~370WHP/370WTQ is quicker than my supercharged G35 making 408WHP/330WTQ. I need to keep the G35 in the higher rev band to make the power.

On your second note, I have considered going single turbo, but you are correct again, that low end torque can easily do in the rods or bearings. Unless I'm doing a built motor, I should probably just stick with the vortec….

Would the angel on your right shoulder tell you to just run the G35 with the vortec supercharger as is and not mess with it? Also considered going stand alone which may be good for another 20 or so WHP if I stay with the supercharger...thoughts?

I think it depends ENTIRELY on what you want from the vehicle, if it's a weekend fun car you have a LOT of options, none of which are inexpensive. If you're doing a lot of racing then the standalone is great for the added benefit of things like ignition-cut for sequential shifting, better response to sensors, integration with customizable LED intrument displays, etc. If this is NOT a race car then I wouldn't go that route because you also LOSE a lot of functionality as far as full integration with your CAN system, various other body systems needing bypass, etc.

I think it's really hard to justify the cost for a mere 20whp...

Do you have an aluminum or carbon fiber 1 piece driveshaft? If not then that would be a MUCH better investment instead of a standalone. I'd almost say that 2 piece rotors would be a better investment as well although that's starting to be a little bit of a stretch.

I also recommend switching out the stock wheels/tires to something like the 2013-2014 Nismo 370Z ones if you haven't already upgraded to something else 9.5" front 10.5" rear. The extra inch of rubber on the road is worth it, same with getting a clutch or helical LSD instead of the viscous unit. More traction on the launch and better cornering from contact patch will make better use of your boosted WHP.

About the single turbo, my biggest complaint about them on the Nissan FM cars is there is just no good place to put the thing, you end up piping it up to the same location as that vortech centrifugal unit except now there's a LOT of very hot exhaust tubing up in the top of the engine bay, OR you stuff it behind the engine and you lose ALL your ground clearance and have a hot driver footwell. The platform is just not friendly towards a single turbo setup even though it's been done many times.

Twin turbo is completely different since the hot side isn't crossing back across the motor, TT fits well and performs amazing but as you know it's expensive but you'll be picking up probably 75-100 WHP at 3500-4000 rpm.

So that's what my angel thinks, lighten rotating parts first since it's inexpensive and is completely 100% bolt-on plus it will complement any future setup, upgrade traction components to put more useable power to the road on launch, if you still want more then start saving for a TT setup. You can tune for the stock rods with a good boost controller so you aren't wrecking the motor. The standalone would be almost literally the last upgrade, do it at the same time you get the stroker kit for the motor :)

good info.

I have everything on your list except CF driveshaft.

I will talk to my shop about a TT. They are suggesting a single turbo and standalone ecu.

Which TT would you recommend and which single if price was not an object.

If you already have an aluminum driveshaft there you probably won't notice a difference switching to a CF one, they're very close in overall weight but the CF doesn't "jumprope" quite as badly at very high speeds apparently.

TT kits if you want a complete bolt-on kit just stick with a name brand, Jim Wolf makes an awesome kit, APS probably makes the BEST kit. I have no recommendation on single turbo but I think the Turbonetics kit was by FAR the most popular. IPP used to have them for a really good price too, complete kits were like $4500

thanks a bunch cleric.

should have also stated I dont have the driveshaft upgrade.

i can definitely do that. I have it on my q50.

I am leaning toward just going standalone Halltech plug and play. Lots of small issues with uprev.

between standalone and CF, I should be able to notice a small bump.

the good thing about the car right now is that everything works. i have gone full built big turbo before and trying to reel in my demons. I can easily spend $25 on motor and turbo.

maybe after taxes next year.