VDC, service engine, slip all ON!!!!
 

Ok so last night my 2003 coupe auto flashed all these lights while driving...

VDC, Check engine, and Slip!

Goes totally limp and will not go! became a trailer queen for the first time!

Ran Engine check I got P2122 and P2127 = bad throttle position sensor. So the sensor on the gas pedal failed which does happen to our cars. about a half hour of labor with the help of fellow forum member Sirboostalot and a trip to the local dealer...oh and $180 in parts later she is all better. No more codes!

I could not buy just the sensor by the way it is the complete gas pedal assembly, which is only two 10mm bolts to the firewall and some clips to the sensor on the assembly. I checked Nissan as well, same price for a 350Z and could not buy just the sensor it is only sold as the complete pedal assembly.

Hope this helps fellow members out if they run into this problem in the future. I am glad I got her fixed in one day, no real down time.

Realtor.

Yeah mine is doing this now. Iff you restart the engine it will go again. At least far enough to get it to a shop.

Mine did that too for a while, throttle cut off and car would not go.
I went to the dealership and they did a scan and the same thing popped up.
I did an ignition cleaning (cleaned the intake manifold) and the code stopped popping up
and the car runs great.

I just installed headers and test pipes. Took my MT for a spin and all the lights came on SLIP CEL and VDC Off. the car shutdown on me as soon as climbed over 2500rpms. any help is welcomed. thanks
(figured it all out) no more lights.

I have the same problem (P2122, P2127 error code) but the car does not accelerate me what is the solution? Helpe me please

DTC P2122 - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor 1 low voltage, either a bad switch or bad signal from the harness. The switch is part of the gas pedal, it's all one unit, unbolt the 2x 10mm bolts on the gas pedal and inspect the harness to see if it's been damaged. Probably need a new gas pedal though.

DTC P2127 is sensor 2 on the APP, basically that whole paragraph you linked is likely the solution to your problem except they misquoted the DTC as being bad throttle position sensor, it's actually a bad APP.

LEARN TO USE THE FSM, it will save your butt, the file IDX is the index. For your particular issue you need section EC. Look under APP Sensor, pages are probably around 600 or so.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/inf...e-manuals.html

You think the solution is to buy a Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Assembly new ?

thanks por the manual

Well you can unbolt it and apply test voltage while you work the pedal and monitor the output with a multimeter, if it's not working then it needs replaced :)

I'd just test it with a 9v battery if it was mine, buy a 9v battery harness, make a set of test leads and plug into the connector, the use the digi multimeter to read from the other side of the switch back to the battery, voltage should vary from 1v-9v depending on how hard you push the pedal down.

The code is being thrown because the computer no longer sees the pedal switch (either of them) it could be from damaged wire or a damaged switch. I'd definitely start by just unbolting and unplugging it and looking for signs of obvious damage.

EDIT: Might check wrecking yards in the area, the G35 gas pedal is probably the same across all models, take yours down just to be sure but a good wrecking yard will have a comprehensive interchange manual they look through first. That same pedal/switch might have been used on a LOT of nissan/infiniti vehicles and might be reasonably priced.

Do you know where I can buy the cable harnes of Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor ??

you know where bous all the cable harnes conection because i buy a Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Assembly and not work :( please help

You know where to buy all the cable harness connector, because i buy a Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Assembly new and not work please help

Are your battery terminals free of corrosion? And do your battery terminals squeeze tightly around each battery post?

A "low voltage" code could be caused by a loose ground somewhere. I did a mid-pipe swap and muffler delete when I first got my car. After driving it down the street it went into limp mode with all three lights on. It had thrown a CAN bus communication code, an ABS code, and a fuel level sensor low voltage code.

After a couple of days of trying to troubleshoot this, I noticed the negative battery cable wasn't holding onto the negative battery terminal tightly. It wasn't super loose, but you could still rotate it if you tried. No matter how tight I tightened the bolt it wouldn't clamp securely.

I went to Infiniti to get a new negative battery cable. But the guy said to just use a terminal shim. He sold me a couple of them for like two bucks.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...27573aa348.jpg

Everything was fine after that. I bought a new battery a few days later and the terminal fit it fine without the shim.

That might not solve your problem, but it only takes two minutes to check.

lol I had a loose terminal causing problems on a car years ago and just shoved a dime in there, tightened it down and the car ran great for 5 years like that with no more issues.

Terminals have a sloped fit, spread out the clamp and push it ALL the way down. That was my issue.

Change the battery terminals?