Someone somewhere did a write up.

Edit: Did some searching and it's HARD to do and the needle removal is the point of no return.

 

yeah I remember reading something about it
that the 2006 and 2007 are harder to do.
😢

 

 

Depends. You can find lots of threads on this. For now, take your current wheels (OEM 19's???) and measure the face of the wheel rim to the front fender. That measurement is the total distance you can move out. Oem 19's are 19x8 +30 and 19x8.5+33 if I remember correctly. So if you take your wheel to be (19x9 +30) it will be mounted at a very similar position as the stock ray, except with +0.5" sticking out and -0.5" sticking in. That 1" additional width had to go somewhere. Once you have that measurement minus the 0.5" additional for the new wheel, the spacer will be that number you have left minus a few mm for clearance. If you go lower you have to jack up the spring rate or you will jam the wheels into the wheel well!

Read here and play around with specs. https://www.willtheyfit.com

 

Long weekend/Road trip! Clocked about 600 miles - accidentally pulled in on a VQ meet in Orlando (sorry I couldn't hang bros, I have priorities: fancy cookies), got my scream on at all of the haunted houses, taught my dog how to enjoy a beach with no tourists, watched some kid in a 240 get pulled for straight-line drifting on I4 (wtf), and hung with a gaggle of beautiful GTRs for 30 miles on 75 until they decided I was tooo slowwww and zoomed off into the horizon.

On the way home, my coolant temps were running a little high only on the hwy at speed. It was about 82 ambient temp outside with full sun so like 86 on blacktop hwy. Torque was reading 210-230 and needle slightly 'at attention' above the middle line cruising at 75. Faster meant higher temps, and I decided to just hang with the trucks at 70 until I could stop. It was nice enough out that I turned off ac and rolled down windows, but that caused the temp to go higher. I turned on heat to make sure I didn't have a bubble and air was HOT. At the gas stop, I checked for any green puddles and did a nose sweep for the sweet smell of antifreeze and checked the front of the radiator for any obstruction I could have picked up. I did a quick fan check and they both spin up, but I noticed that my main fan isn't spinning as fast as accessory when AC is turned on. This is an educated guess based on my hair getting caught up in the breeze created by accessory fan, but not the main. I imagine a before and after hair product commercial shoot with both fans running. I am guessing that this is my problem - the main/passenger side fan not spinning at correct rpm? Or are the blades angled differently? I guess I need to look up how to test accurately test this (not using the hair flowing method).

I made it home fine on the bendy back roads, and kept the temps in the normal range. Got home and used the spill-less funnel to bleed/check for air bubbles, checked the cap (replaced the cap when I did a coolant flush about 6k ago) and put the cardboard down to make sure I wasn't missing a small leak somewhere.

Sorry I like to write a lot. Man those GTRs were beautiful.

 

The fans spin the same rpm but one fan has more blades than the other so it creates this illusion that they're spinning at different speeds.

 

Oh, thanks Cleric - good info.
G is parked for now. I would guess if I can confirm fan operation, I can move on to testing my thermostat. Maybe it's not opening fully at operating temp?

 

You could also try replacing your coolant temperature sensor while you're checking out your thermostat! Although this sounds like an actual problem.

 

Cool, thx CSW. I'll test the sensor out while I'm working at it.

 

Pulled tstat and it's definitely not opening fully. It cracks open slightly (~ 2 mm) and stops. Ordered a new oem one and a gasket and hopefully be back in business. Will gently clean the rad and condenser off while everything is emptied. I am sure they are hiding secrets...

 

:'(

 

Pretty funny that you would take the time to remove a thermostat and not have a replacement on hand so you don't have to wait for a replacement to arrive.

Telcoman

 

Maybe this isn't Tokkio's only car ? Why buy a replacement part before you know the current one is faulty ?

 

I'm not sure what is amusing, but whatever tickles your pickle man.
I was bored and it took roughly 30 minutes to drain, pull, and test the part. I took more time talking to a neighbor who doesn't like my exhaust. I am also driving my truck so it didn't matter or I probably wouldn't have opened it up to begin with.
After I posted, I went back out and replaced my cam sensors which took less time/effort than I thought. Gonna replace the crank sensor this weekend.

Just curious, what tools does everyone carry in the trunk? I have a small 1/2 in drive socket set that my dad gave me when I bought my first car (8mm-16, I added 17and 19), a pair of pliers, a multi bit screwdriver (I added a T20 to it last night), an led crank flashlight, a tire compressor, some nitrile gloves, a rag, bungees, and a sealed qt of oil all tucked in the space where the jack is. I also may have a small bag full of plastic plugs and 10mm bolts in there.

 

I guess it is just a generational thing?

If I was going to the trouble to inspect a thermostat on a vehicle that is overheating and over five years old, I would have a new one on hand for replacement regardless of the condition of the old one.


I bought my first set of Craftsmen tools over fifty years ago and have added many tools to that set over the years.
It is usually cheaper to purchase a complete set of tools rather than one by one. Perhaps Sears has some on sale prior to their bankruptcy.
I don't carry many tools in the trunk. On the rare occasion assistance is needed I have AAA with 200 mile of free towing.

Telcoman