2006 G35 Coupe 6MT cranks, but wont start
#16
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central NJ
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
I will be ordering one of those Z1 fuel pressure adapters so I can test fuel pressure. I did check my spark first thing when the car quit running, and I don't have spark. I did not in fact change my crank position sensor, I will have to wait till I get some friends to help me push the car into my garage to do that one, and I did not do my front two cam position sensors.
You may want to hold off spending money on a fuel pressure adapter until you can verify that you are getting spark.
Telcoman
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#18
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XxCHICKENBOOBxX (11-02-2018)
#19
I would also like to note that just before my car decided to stop starting, it started doing this thing where it would go in and out of power when under load, so for example, if I were to rev out the car in second gear from 4k rpm to 7k rpm, then the engine would do this thing where it sounded like I was cutting throttle every half a second or so, up until I hit 7k rpm. I haven't been able to find any info on this, so if any of you know anything about this, or think it may somehow be related, then I would love to hear about it.
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#23
So I went to test fuel pressure, and my fuel pump decided to quit priming. I also noticed that when I turn my key to accessory, I don't have a check engine light. From what I've heard, not having a check engine light when you turn the key to accessory means that your ECU is junk. There is a shop about 30 minutes away from my house that claims they can fix my ECU for $325.
#24
Ok, so the car still isn't running. Here is an update on everything I have done to the car; I have tried scanning the ECU since the whole fuel pump deal, and it wont read that there is an ECU in the car. I have tried swapping the ECU from a different car, and that one didn't read either, so it appears that something in the car is causing the ECU to not read (I had a shop check both ECU's, and was told that both of them are good). My battery has charge, so it's not that. I bought a new IPDM, as I assumed that the IPDM had gone bad due to some pretty gnarly corrosion and holes punched in the box. Replacing the IPDM did not allow the ECU to read, so I am still at a loss as to what the problem is.
Last edited by XxCHICKENBOOBxX; 01-06-2019 at 08:32 PM.
#25
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Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
"REPLACE ECM
1. Replace ECM.2. Perform initialization of IVIS (NATS) system and registration of all IVIS (NATS) ignition key IDs.Refer to BL-268, "ECM Re-Communicating Function"3. Perform EC-77, "VIN Registration"4. Perform EC-78, "Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning (M/T models)".5. PerformEC-78, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".6. PerformEC-79, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning".7. Perform EC-79, "Idle Air Volume Learning"
Telcoman
Telcoman
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It's got 2 doors 😂
i did a little research as well and found another owner had same problem you were describing and he had a spare key he had been using and the chip went bad, he switched back to factory key and car started right up with no further issues. hope that helps man. id try that one last thing and then make a decision
Last edited by MurdaG; 01-02-2019 at 10:20 PM.