OK, The Chase Bay harness I bought doesnt work. I'd stay away from it if I was you. They were slow in making it, some of the clips are incorrect (4), and its so damn tight and small that some of the clips dont reach where they are supposed to go. So, basically, I dont trust the harness. Just get and use the GM harness that comes from them with an ECU and gas peddle. It also has the fuse box and a plug for OBD. So you can leave your harness balled up underneath the dash and keep your creature comforts intact. You just need to run your ac wire, and grounds and power to the G computer underneath. Hows that for some help.

 

[QUOTE. Stusg35;6820811]OK, The Chase Bay harness I bought doesnt work. I'd stay away from it if I was you. They were slow in making it, some of the clips are incorrect (4), and its so damn tight and small that some of the clips dont reach where they are supposed to go. So, basically, I dont trust the harness. Just get and use the GM harness that comes from them with an ECU and gas peddle. It also has the fuse box and a plug for OBD. So you can leave your harness balled up underneath the dash and keep your creature comforts intact. You just need to run your ac wire, and grounds and power to the G computer underneath. Hows that for some help.[/QUOTE]

Thanks StusG35....sorry to hear you are having issues....I had been warned they were having some quality issues. Sounds like they have something to resolve. Thanks for the advise. Im considering Stinsons and Jordan Innovations. I'll report back on my choice and how it goes. When you do your ad if you could get me some pin out details that would be awesome.....good luck.

 

Well work has been keeping me really busy....I have been pecking away at some of the small stuff in th evenings, but I am behind on my updates here....

So I ordered a Walbro 255 kit for the G35 off eBay. I was hoping it would be an easy swap. Did not turn out to be a direct build. I removed fuel bucket assembly out of the tank and out of the car and did some quick clean up in the car to try to minimize the gasoline odor in the interior. In hindsight I would have done a better job pouring out all the gas from the bucket assembly. Everytime I thought it was done dribbling gas out on my, bench or my floor or the towel.....it ended up having a little more trapped somewhere in the assembly.

So the main problem with this was that the Walbro has a bit longer stem and does not go up as far in the assembly. I did grind off the bumps on the top of the pump and the bottom of the pump as well. This put me in the situation that there was no way to insert the rubber spacer onto the bottom of the pump and still clip on the pump retainer. In the end I chose to try it without the rubber spacer.....not sure if this is going to cause me problems later....

I reassembled it into the tank.....If I have to revisit this later its not the end of the world, but I think its ok.

 

Grrrr…Just finished writing a long post and either Explorer or G35Driver site pooped on me. Fooey. Always seems to happen when I am just about done…never comes out as good the second time. Oh well here goes.

Well I thought I was going to have the rest of my mount kit from Fueled Racing here Friday but FedEx decide it worked better for them to deliver it on Monday….sigh. Another weekend without my stuff. So I should have some cool pictures to post later this week. Motor mounts, trans mount, long tube headers, power steering kit, clutch kit. This TR6060 seems to be giving some of the drive shaft guys a problem but I think I have that solved with a local company here in Michigan that specializes in this kind of stuff. More later on that depending on how it goes.

For better or worse I have made up my mind on a harness supplier. I am going with Jordan Innovations. They came recommended by Todd at Fueled Racing and after talking with Jeff over the phone I feel pretty good not only about their capabilities, but that they actually care about their customers. I am going to go with a CAN BUS Tach and Speedo with a Bluetooth OBD2 to an dash mounted Samsung Note running Dashboard App for the other gages and maybe even some actual data logging. Anyone seen this done before? Pics? Advise on how to integrate the tablet into the dash?

So today I decided to do the Gas Pedal mount for the Camaro TBW pedal. After tearing everything out and looking at the area I was afraid I was going to have to weld something in place. Not set up for that yet and I was hoping to not tear out the entire dash if I can help it. So I noodled it a bit the past week and decided to try a sheet metal bracket bolted in place using the original firewall studs that were used for the Nissan pedal.

I started with some scrap metal I had around the shop (its from an old screen door …lol) its pretty heavy gage (2.25mm thick). I layed out the Camaro pedal on it. I eyeballed the length for an initial try and got lucky. The strip size I started with was 2 ½ X 11. Next I marked and drilled holes for the Camaro pedal. I made my first test fit into the car and marked the location for top firewall hole. I did end up with 3 holes due to my poor observation skills. Measure twice cut once not the other way around…oh well it’s a pedal bracket….not a beauty contest. After my next test fit I noticed there was some potential for very high “Pedal to the Metal” forces. I bent a flange about 30ish degrees on the bottom 1 inch. This seemed to take care of the strength and get the position of the pedal better. Lastly I trimmed the bottom flange along the bottom taking off about ¼ inch on the inboard side angled to 0 on the outboard side. I am very pleased with the fit and feel. I will need to make a final review of it when I have the driver seat back in.

 

Couple more pics. I think I got the location spot on.....Camaro has that VERY narrow pedal.

 

Funny, I'm doing the same thing at this point. Already tried twice with two plates of sheet metal. Didnt like either one so Im back at it today. Your peddle bracket is a little different shape than mine.

 

Loving the project so far and it's even better with your boys helping you.

 

Hey Hybrid, any recent updates?

 

One coming this weekend

 

OK well it has been some time since my last update. Sorry for that, but work has been busy and progress was a bit slow. Should start speeding up again now that some more parts have arrived.

My mounting kit from Fueled Racing arrived. Motor mount brackets are VERY robust looking. Steel is heavy gage and the powder coating is nice looking. Bushings look solid. I was surprised that they were not symmetric right to left. I guess I’ll really understand the why behind that when I mount the motor, hopefully in the next week or so.

Transmission mount is tubular and looks and feels very well made with the same powder coating. Test fit shows a very clean fit to the mounting locations in the car.

Power steering adapter kit is just a bag of tubes and fittings……hope this is as simple as it looks.

The “very” long tube headers are sexy looking, ceramic coating inside and out. Initial visual inspection gives me nothing to complain about. Welding and coating quality look very good, bungs are in place without weld spatter. I have not gotten my O2 sensors yet so I really can’t say for sure the fit is good, but I am going to assume they will be fine.

I thought I was going to have to fab up my own dust cover to closeout the flywheel in the bellhousing due to the different oilpan.....but look at that its in the kit and I did not even know that was included....I like that kind of surprise. FR logo on the shirt from Fueled Racing is sweet.

 

Well before I can make a test install of the motor I decided it made sense to get the clutch master cylindar kit as well and do the plumbing (more good advise fro FR) as the transmission needs to come off to route the lines to the slave cylindar.

While I was waiting on the kit I pulled off the trans and did a little research. As it turns out the TR6060 has different fittings to the slave cylindar for the bleeder and the pressure line.

 

Next I received my clutch master cylinder kit. Unfortunately the kit is made for the T56 transmission and there are some small differences from the TR6060. The connection for the Main pressure line into the slave cylinder is set up for a quick disconnect. I see that some guys have been cutting off the quick disconnect fitting and welding on an -3AN fitting to the tube. I’m not that confident in the weld on that small of a tube….just seems like a future weak/failure point. After finally figuring out how to get the clip off the slave cylinder fitting I decided to try drilling and tapping the fitting itself.

I cut off the tubing flush with the fitting….no turning back now….. I drilled out the fitting (21/64” Q Drill bit 1/8” 27NPT tap) and ran the tap in. On the first try I did not go deep enough with the drill and the fitting could not get started into the threads. To get the tap deep enough I had to go between ½” and ¾” total depth, just don’t go too far and get past the tapered section of the fitting. I got a -3AN to 1/8” NPT male to male fitting. And threaded it in, looks and feels very solid and the braided line now runs right into the bell housing.

I decided to go a similar way with the remote bleeder line. Unfortunately I did not realize the kit included a larger line so I had to go back to the fitting store and find a -4AN to 1/8” NPT. I pulled out the entire slave cylinder for this step. Upon inspection I see that it is going to be difficult to clean out any metal shavings. As a counter measure I cut a small circle of cardboard and pushed it to the bottom of the cavity where the bleeder valve normally threads in to block any shavings from entering the tube in the diecasting. Since the casting is white metal (Aluminum or Magnesium) I decided to forego cutting oil to help chip extraction and try to avoid chhips into the slave cylindar body. The drilling and tapping process went smooth. I did make progressive passes with the tap to periodically clean out the chips and make sure the cardboard disc stayed in place. The final result is pretty clean with the fitting directly tapped into the slave cylinder. I like the end result, but if you are thinking about trying this, keep in mind there is definitely a risk of getting metal shavings into the clutch slave cylinder…not sure what potential failure modes could exist…...attempt at your own risk.

 

More pics for previous post

 

And some pics of the bleeder converted and attached