G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

G35 exhaust note

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  #31  
Old 09-20-2015, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
Well is there a real performance difference between rev-up and not rev up?
In terms of 0-60 times? I don't care much about top speed, but I sure like beating somebody at the lights, and preferably not losing all my oil in the process
No difference in performance for coupes, but yes for sedans.
 
  #32  
Old 09-20-2015, 08:00 PM
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Welp, I'm looking at a coupe so it looks like I'm going to be looking for a 03/04 coupe from now on unless somebody wants to convince me otherwise
 
  #33  
Old 09-20-2015, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
Welp, I'm looking at a coupe so it looks like I'm going to be looking for a 03/04 coupe from now on unless somebody wants to convince me otherwise
I would look for an 04 specifically tho. 03.5 at least. The early 03s can't be tuned without a wideband O2 sensor upgrade.

Also, try to find one with brembos so you don't have to upgrade later.
 
  #34  
Old 09-21-2015, 12:49 AM
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Take a listen to my exhaust set up.
My mods are z-tube, k&n drop in filter, motordyne plenum spacer, fast intentions resonated test pipes, and an authentic HKS exhaust paired with a Magnaflow resonated x-pipe.
 
  #35  
Old 09-21-2015, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
Well is there a real performance difference between rev-up and not rev up?
In terms of 0-60 times? I don't care much about top speed, but I sure like beating somebody at the lights, and preferably not losing all my oil in the process
The Rev-Up has higher peak HP and the non Rev Up has it's peak torque hit at a bit lower RPMs than the Rev-Up. You won't notice the difference head to head.

The real world performance between the two is basically the same. Motortrend magazine tested an 04 350Z touring and an 05 350Z touring a really long time ago and found little to no difference on a track test for 0-60 and a quarter mile. The Rev-Up was actually slower in the 0-60, but they said it may have had to due with track conditions.

Regardless.... I personally would go with the non-Rev Up if you have to choose between the two just due to the oil consumption issues.
 
  #36  
Old 09-21-2015, 09:03 AM
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Every DE is going to have oil issues to some extent...change the valve covers and gasket, get a catch can and you'll be good to go.
 
  #37  
Old 09-21-2015, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by VenomGT9
Every DE is going to have oil issues to some extent...change the valve covers and gasket, get a catch can and you'll be good to go.
I know they all have a chance to have the consumption issue, just that the non-rev up is supposed to be better. So I'll probably get one of those but have them check it during the inspection anyways
 
  #38  
Old 09-21-2015, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by VenomGT9
Every DE is going to have oil issues to some extent...change the valve covers and gasket, get a catch can and you'll be good to go.
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
 
  #39  
Old 09-21-2015, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by partyman66
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
I've read somewhere that if you get high compression forged pistons you can eliminate the problem but I don't know how much that will cost/how difficult it is. I think i mentioned it earlier in the thread but nobody really responded to it.
 
  #40  
Old 09-21-2015, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
I've read somewhere that if you get high compression forged pistons you can eliminate the problem but I don't know how much that will cost/how difficult it is. I think i mentioned it earlier in the thread but nobody really responded to it.
It would cost more than just replacing the engine.
 
  #41  
Old 09-21-2015, 05:17 PM
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Unless you DIY
 
  #42  
Old 09-21-2015, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
I've read somewhere that if you get high compression forged pistons you can eliminate the problem but I don't know how much that will cost/how difficult it is. I think i mentioned it earlier in the thread but nobody really responded to it.
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
 
  #43  
Old 09-21-2015, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by partyman66
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
Jesus. I'd rather get a 04 and spend a bit more to have brembo, and take the money leftover to add a few small modifications lol.
 
  #44  
Old 09-22-2015, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by philbegas
Jesus. I'd rather get a 04 and spend a bit more to have brembo, and take the money leftover to add a few small modifications lol.
Yep. This is why most people just opt for swapping in another motor. Spending all of that money rebuilding a stock motor just to get the car back to running form and maybe get a 5-10% performance benefit from it if you use all high end upgrade/replacement parts and do an overbore along with it. The performance replacement packages tend to cost a lot more too so it doesn't make much sense for most people.
 

Last edited by partyman66; 09-22-2015 at 09:18 PM.
  #45  
Old 10-02-2015, 02:13 PM
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Just add breather/catch can in the pcv valve. I know I'm new here, but I've done a fair bit of research and it would seem that they're not leaking it.
It's simply being sucked through, especially during high revs. I've had a few other cars that would do this too (a Saturn and a 4efte Tercel), and I was actually amazed at how much oil I caught. More importantly how much oil I didn't have to replace.

You can buy them on ebay, but I used an oil/condensation catch can for an air compressor (from Home Depot). It was about as big as my fist. If it can withstand the pressure from an air compressor, I figured it'd manage my PCV valve pressure and driving just fine.
 


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