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bobalo 08-02-2018 04:56 PM

transmission
 
2005 G 35X and it has a Automatic transmission which works fine in Drive, but when you push the shiftier handle to manual the transmission stays in Drive and works fine downshifting and upshifting Automatically

cleric670 08-02-2018 05:41 PM

Yep

Blue Dream 08-02-2018 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by bobalo (Post 7145965)
2005 G 35X and it has a Automatic transmission which works fine in Drive, but when you push the shiftier handle to manual the transmission stays in Drive and works fine downshifting and upshifting Automatically

:dunno:

Whatchu talkin' about Willis??



Scorpi0 08-03-2018 04:06 AM

Lol, I think he means the car never actually goes into manual mode.

Magneu 08-03-2018 08:58 PM

99% it's either valve body or the actual switch inside the shifter assembly. Verify that the manual mode switch is actually activating, it'll be a tiny little *click* as it goes from D to manual mode (taking offer the shifter assembly cover may help to hear it; lower silver trim on shift handle, remove gold colored pin shaped like a "U", remove knob, use a trim remover to pry the shifter assembly cover off. It'll be attached to the car via two wires, but you can just put it on the passenger side, those wires control cigarette lighter and IIRC illumination on the cover itself). If it's clicking fine then either the processor is broken or your valve body has a solenoid going out (could be either at this point). On a cold start, go to D and then quickly (within a second) to manual mode, while the transmission is cold (AFTER RPM has dropped to under 1100 in P, no need to shock the system). If the transmission consistently lets you do that but refuses after driving for a bit (hot fluid, especially in city driving), it's most likely your valve body solenoid, as they act up more as temperature goes up. On a hot start, go from P to D to manual mode in under two seconds within five seconds of starting; if the transmission lets you do that, even more evidence for a valve body problem (IIRC the car takes a few seconds to run temperature/sensor checks upon startup and if you can get into manual mode before it checks transmission temperature, it'll let you go in. If you go back to D and stay there for more than a few seconds though, you'll be locked out. It also won't let you downshift, but it should let you upshift (transmission trying to protect itself from potentially damaging RPM levels)).

In either case, it can't hurt to grab some compressed air and give the inside of the shifter assembly a good blast; sometimes the grease down there/debris can interfere with operation. Unfortunately, dealerships and transmission shops can't test for bad valve body solenoids without physically taking the valve body apart and testing resistances. The car should run an invisible code (no SEL light) P1815 if the manual mode switch itself isn't working, but from what I remember when I had this problem, that code can come and go randomly. The valve body runs around $1800 from most dealerships; I'd honestly go aftermarket with a shift kit if you're going to replace it.

EDIT: Important! I totally forgot, check your ATF level before any of that, and if it's low fill up with Nissan J-matic or S-matic. Google the correct way to check the level, it's a tiny bit more complicated than checking oil. Low fluid can cause all sorts of issues.

I suspect valve body solenoids overall, but it could be the manual mode switch itself. You can't get that by itself unless you visit a junkyard and pry it out of another car's shifter assembly, but then you're playing roulette with if that car's assembly works. The assembly is $500 from most places and about a 20-30 minute install with basic hand tools

quickspeed6 08-13-2018 02:13 PM

So is it the consensus that the valve body is the issue with these cars. Next question is if i pulled the valve body out of another tranny will i have to get that valve body reprogrammed to my car or is it a direct swap as long as it is the same year?

hixsonrail 08-16-2018 07:21 PM

Hopefully its just a direct swap and not needed to reprogram :dunno:

Bonesg35x 11-03-2018 11:18 AM

Both the Valve Body and Shifter Assmebly require reprogramming! :(

2005 G35x Manual Mode/M intermittent / works 20-30% of the time ....
Been through hell and back with this issue. I just want to finalize it as nothing else major is wrong my 05 G35x ... It's got high KM, 230+, but runs like a dream!Sometimes it will stay in M-mode the whole trip, but MOST of time its kicks back into D after about 5-10 seconds after starting the car and driving. Once it fails, it will not register M mode until you the next time you drive, potentially lol. Occasionally, you can turn off the car and restart it and it will fix it. Also, the downshift/upshift doesn't register sometimes and may take several taps to actually shift, but it's the downshift really 99% of the time... it also very rarely will shift own its own in M-Mode, down shifts only, without human input, which is very annoying, but this is rare. Outside tempature also seems to affect its oeprtion of working or not. I'm sure all the issues are related to one thing... I hope! Because it does work fine sometimes...

Work done already to address this issue:
- Replaced shifter assembly - as suggested by Infiniti ( Did not work ) Cost: $1000.00
- New valve body/TCM - as suggested by Infiniti , was covered under my used car warranty ( IT DID NOT WORK ! ) only had to pay $700 under warranty, would've been $2,800 otherwise..

Now Infiniti is saying it's my combination meter ( Guage Cluster ) , showing code: P1815 Manual Mode Switch - I'm RELUCTANT to listen to them anymore... Quote on the Combination is $2000, but I’ve been looking into used ones or refurbishing my current one for much, much cheap than that. My warranty might cover it, but I hate to waste it on issues like this! It does make sense that this could be the issue though, but why wouldn't they diagnose this in the first place?? Dealerships are total rip off! but most places say they are your best bet for this issue...

Some other research I've done, people say it could be a cam sensor, but I don't see how that could cause all these issues...Could it be a speed/wheel sensor? Tranny fluid?
????????

It does have a minor electrical issues in the combination meter - left turn signal on dash is faint inside most of the time, and sometimes work normal, and the gas gauge gives a faulty reading. I don't think this is this all connected to the M-mode issue and the combination meter? Am I going to just keep wasting money, or, have I eliminated all possible causes and the combination meter ( Gauge Cluster ) is the fix?? I need this fixed now!! LOL! The Transmission seems to work fine otherwise, I hope it's not the tranny!

Please help!!!

cleric670 11-03-2018 12:29 PM


Originally Posted by Bonesg35x (Post 7154079)
Both the Valve Body and Shifter Assmebly require reprogramming! :(

No they don't REQUIRE programming but it probably had an older software installed so they updated it to the latest. Either that or they didn't actually give you a 2004.5 transmission. Also, the valve body is just a bunch of solenoids, the shifter assembly is just linkage and a couple contact switches, the programming is done on the TCM. Shifter assembly is 100% plug and play, no programming required. There is a lengthy DIAGNOSTIC procedure they follow though when trying to determine the problem but that's NOT programming.

Did they replace the MM switch when they did the shifter assembly.

Did they clean the transmission ground on the front of the timing chain cover.

When was transmission fluid changed and what is it's condition.

Usually these problems are the contacts on the MM switch itself getting corroded, however it can also be caused by low line pressure on the transmission or many other reasons, since you're throwing the MM switch DTC then you either have a failing switch or possibly damaged wire/harness.

Bonesg35x 11-03-2018 12:42 PM

Thanks for your quick response!

I know the shifter assembly needed to be (flashed) at the dealership, once intsalled, the assmeby was installed at a tranny shop and they sent it to infiniti to be flashed.. is that not programming?

Infiniti said the M-Mode swtich is operating normally, and they checked all other connections, No LAN/CAN faultslogged in any system.

Tranny fluid was replaced when the valve body was done, in the beginning of 2018, just had an oil change last month and they said all fluids were great.

Thoughts? do you think it could be the gauge cluster?

thank you !! :)

Bonesg35x 11-03-2018 01:52 PM

2005 G35x Manual Mode/M intermittent / works 20-30% of the time
 
Here is the last report from Infiniti after I got the Valve Body replaced...... See what you think?? thanks again!



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...446f6a8328.jpg

cleric670 11-03-2018 07:47 PM

Combination meter failure won't cause that problem, it just reads CAN data and displays. They found a constantly open wire in the MM circuit but the switch functions, that means a wiring or harness issue.

Bonesg35x 11-04-2018 01:48 AM

Yea, I thought it seemed strange the issue would be in the meter.. I'll go get the wiring and harness checked out, and post an update. Really appreciate your help!

Thank you!!! :)

Magneu 11-05-2018 11:25 PM


Originally Posted by Bonesg35x (Post 7154079)
Both the Valve Body and Shifter Assmebly require reprogramming! :(

2005 G35x Manual Mode/M intermittent / works 20-30% of the time ....
Been through hell and back with this issue. I just want to finalize it as nothing else major is wrong my 05 G35x ... It's got high KM, 230+, but runs like a dream!Sometimes it will stay in M-mode the whole trip, but MOST of time its kicks back into D after about 5-10 seconds after starting the car and driving. Once it fails, it will not register M mode until you the next time you drive, potentially lol. Occasionally, you can turn off the car and restart it and it will fix it. Also, the downshift/upshift doesn't register sometimes and may take several taps to actually shift, but it's the downshift really 99% of the time... it also very rarely will shift own its own in M-Mode, down shifts only, without human input, which is very annoying, but this is rare. Outside tempature also seems to affect its oeprtion of working or not. I'm sure all the issues are related to one thing... I hope! Because it does work fine sometimes...

Work done already to address this issue:
- Replaced shifter assembly - as suggested by Infiniti ( Did not work ) Cost: $1000.00
- New valve body/TCM - as suggested by Infiniti , was covered under my used car warranty ( IT DID NOT WORK ! ) only had to pay $700 under warranty, would've been $2,800 otherwise..

Now Infiniti is saying it's my combination meter ( Guage Cluster ) , showing code: P1815 Manual Mode Switch - I'm RELUCTANT to listen to them anymore... Quote on the Combination is $2000, but I’ve been looking into used ones or refurbishing my current one for much, much cheap than that. My warranty might cover it, but I hate to waste it on issues like this! It does make sense that this could be the issue though, but why wouldn't they diagnose this in the first place?? Dealerships are total rip off! but most places say they are your best bet for this issue...

Some other research I've done, people say it could be a cam sensor, but I don't see how that could cause all these issues...Could it be a speed/wheel sensor? Tranny fluid?
????????

It does have a minor electrical issues in the combination meter - left turn signal on dash is faint inside most of the time, and sometimes work normal, and the gas gauge gives a faulty reading. I don't think this is this all connected to the M-mode issue and the combination meter? Am I going to just keep wasting money, or, have I eliminated all possible causes and the combination meter ( Gauge Cluster ) is the fix?? I need this fixed now!! LOL! The Transmission seems to work fine otherwise, I hope it's not the tranny!

Please help!!!

Wait, somebody else with the faint/not working left turn signal on dash and bad gas gauge? Tell me, is your parking brake light also iffy? Sorry to thread hijack, but I had to take apart my gauges last year and have had those problems since.

I've also got the issue with the car not wanting to downshift sometimes, yet will always upshift in MM (don't have the issue with the car not wanting to go into MM anymore since my transmission replacement, although it has happened once or twice in a year). Seems like we have very similar issues; for what it's worth, I've replaced both the entire transmission/valve body and shifter assembly with no true fix for the no-downshift problem. My guess is it's an electrical problem SOMEWHERE in the line (already cleaned every ground in the car)

Bonesg35x 11-09-2018 12:02 AM

Hey Mag,

Yes! Very similar problems. :52: :) :(

Also, my reverse lights do NOT work on occasion... but work 70-80% of the time. But for your parking brake light issue ( on the gauge you mean, correct?) .. I had that happen to me to! The parking light brake can mean low brake fluid I beleive , I had that flashing before and that was my fix. If it gets really low, the brake, SLIP and other VDC will all come on at once .( to my knowledge )

If I had known this manual mode issue would be such a headache and $$$, I would've never got an A/T, but I wanted the AWD to drive year round .( Really regretting it now, espescially to gear down in winter, etc.) I thought I would be able to fix the issue with some of the quick fix methods. ( yea, maybe your down shift issue is something in your wiring to , if it is still happeing even after your new tranmsisson ). Did your car have the same issue as mine before the tranny replacement, M-Mode would stop working and only work 20-30% of the time? because if that will help... I would do it.. love this car, but it's a fnn drag with no M-mode... it's really getting to me! Losing sleep over it! LOL! :( . I still think for my issue it has to be the wiring/harness etc, as "Cleric670" has informed me of and seems to make the most sense. I will get that wiring/harness checked and post updates. """"""@ MAG and "CLERIC670" : I will also see if they replaced the MM swtich when they installed my shifter assembly, as you mentioned, but is that not part of the assmebly, or is it a seperate part? That would be a very logical explantion for these typese of issues I'm having if that''s the case...?????? """"

Where did you get your gauges done? Or, did you just take it apart yourself... I was looking into shpping my off for refurbishing in Toronto ( I live in Vancouver, BC) they said they can fix the singal and gas guage 100%, but when I asked him about the M-mode indicator on the gauge, he said he's never done that, and I said infiniti told me this could be the issue, he said can't promise anything and doesn't think that would be the problem anways.. I've learned where my tank goes empty (the hard way, only one time) at 1/4, so I always keep it above 1/2..and I'm so used to the left signal not working most of the time that i don't really want to have it taken out and redone, the car would be off the road I beleive and costs would be between 200-400$ with shipping and repair... So if it's not going to fix my shift problem, I might just live with these smaller issues on the gauge. :( :(

Side note: I just popped on a MagnaFlow catback exhaust and lowered it! picking it up tomrrow. I need this M-Mode problem delt with now..I can live with the occasional missed down shift if that's as good as it can get! lol!

Thank you for sharing your VERY similar story MAGNEU... any comments, updates or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

CHEERS! :RAISEROOF:













Magneu 11-09-2018 04:08 AM


Originally Posted by Bonesg35x (Post 7154602)
Hey Mag,

Yes! Very similar problems. :52: :) :(

Also, my reverse lights do NOT work on occasion... but work 70-80% of the time. But for your parking brake light issue ( on the gauge you mean, correct?) .. I had that happen to me to! The parking light brake can mean low brake fluid I beleive , I had that flashing before and that was my fix. If it gets really low, the brake, SLIP and other VDC will all come on at once .( to my knowledge )

If I had known this manual mode issue would be such a headache and $$$, I would've never got an A/T, but I wanted the AWD to drive year round .( Really regretting it now, espescially to gear down in winter, etc.) I thought I would be able to fix the issue with some of the quick fix methods. ( yea, maybe your down shift issue is something in your wiring to , if it is still happeing even after your new tranmsisson ). Did your car have the same issue as mine before the tranny replacement, M-Mode would stop working and only work 20-30% of the time? because if that will help... I would do it.. love this car, but it's a fnn drag with no M-mode... it's really getting to me! Losing sleep over it! LOL! :( . I still think for my issue it has to be the wiring/harness etc, as "Cleric670" has informed me of and seems to make the most sense. I will get that wiring/harness checked and post updates. """"""@ MAG and "CLERIC670" : I will also see if they replaced the MM swtich when they installed my shifter assembly, as you mentioned, but is that not part of the assmebly, or is it a seperate part? That would be a very logical explantion for these typese of issues I'm having if that''s the case...?????? """"

Where did you get your gauges done? Or, did you just take it apart yourself... I was looking into shpping my off for refurbishing in Toronto ( I live in Vancouver, BC) they said they can fix the singal and gas guage 100%, but when I asked him about the M-mode indicator on the gauge, he said he's never done that, and I said infiniti told me this could be the issue, he said can't promise anything and doesn't think that would be the problem anways.. I've learned where my tank goes empty (the hard way, only one time) at 1/4, so I always keep it above 1/2..and I'm so used to the left signal not working most of the time that i don't really want to have it taken out and redone, the car would be off the road I beleive and costs would be between 200-400$ with shipping and repair... So if it's not going to fix my shift problem, I might just live with these smaller issues on the gauge. :( :(

Side note: I just popped on a MagnaFlow catback exhaust and lowered it! picking it up tomrrow. I need this M-Mode problem delt with now..I can live with the occasional missed down shift if that's as good as it can get! lol!

Thank you for sharing your VERY similar story MAGNEU... any comments, updates or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

CHEERS! :RAISEROOF:













Before the transmission replacement the car would only reliably go into MM when cold; as soon as the fluid got a bit warm, it would stick in MM when putting it in regular D,, change to D after a few seconds, then stay stuck in D and refuse to go back to MM. A restart of the car would fix it, as well as starting the car and shifting to MM as soon as the revs fell (having to reverse or park almost always meant I couldn't get back to MM). Ended up finding aluminum shavings in the pan, only thing aluminum was the casing itself, soooo yeah. You can see what state the transmission was in.

THAT BEING SAID, I still had the shifting issue the same day I got the brand new transmission; downshift would sometimes not work, upshift always would (and about a year down the line the car once or twice did the same "stay in MM when shifting to drive, freeze, get stuck in drive). I swapped the entire shifter assembly for one I got from an online source, can't remember the place; don't think it was actually a new one, as it was only $300 instead of the dealer quote of $500. Regardless, it didn't seem to fix the issue any that I noticed. I have noticed a few things though;

1. Transmission is more likely to downshift in MM when cold OR when driving aggressively and moving a lot of air into the radiator. Just dropped to around 35-40 degrees from 50-60 a few weeks ago, and it's working almost everytime. We know that heat raises electrical resistance; it's possible that rising temperatures affect the solenoids in the valve body.
2. In the rare (twice ever, both same day) time when the car gets stuck in MM (after the new transmission), it doesn't change the screen to D and locks out MM; if I requested a downshift that wasn't given, the car would stay in the same gear for a few seconds and then downshift as many times as possible with the rev limiter, almost like it was receiving repeated commands (I was able to stop it by upshifting). If I waited until the car stopped downshifting, I could swap back and forth between D and MM no problem. If I tried to slap it into D while it was going nuts, it would lock out MM.
3. Cleaning every ground in the car helped a little bit, but not so much I could notice it. Swapping a failing camshaft sensor with a revised OEM one did seem to help a bit. I don't know what parameters the TCM looks for when requesting a shift, but it's possible it reads data off the camshaft/crankshaft sensors to determine if a downshift will blow up the engine or not. If it can't get a good reading, it may deny it.

In addition, my gauge cluster went bad when I had to dismantle it to fix a fuel gauge needle that went backwards to the other side of the peg when my battery died in a rainstorm (that was a fun one). Overall my left turn signal is either faint or doesn't work, my parking brake light doesn't work, my fuel gauge does whatever the hell it wants and part of the needle/backlighting of the speedometer doesn't work; HOWEVER all lights come on/mostly come on if I push the gauge cowl around a bit or raise the wheel (raising only helps the turn signal, and even then only sometimes), and the fuel gauge occasionally (i.e. once a month) shows the correct level for a few minutes (I don't think it was bad when I first got the car, but wouldn't be surprised if it was, it's a known problem). I'll eventually swap a new one in or fix it, but it's not necessary for getting to work, so yeah.

I find it unlikely that the gauge/combination meter can affect MM, but you never know, wiring can be complex. I've checked all the wires below the shifter, but I've found nothing out of place so far; my guess is that the processor for the downshift is going out. Speaking of which, the manual mode switch is part of the assembly; if you slide the shifter veeeeery gently between MM and D, you'll hear the tiny click of it actuating. It's a tiny switch that sends an electrical signal, so if it's bad it could cause issues; I find that unlikely, though. I plan to eventually install Works Bell paddle shifters, which will answer my question if the OEM down/upshift processors (the little clicks you hear while in MM and shifting) are my problem, as the WB kit bypasses those via a plug-in harness. '

Check your fluid first, and top it off with S-Matic if low; low fluid is the number one cause of problems like this. Do a drain and fill if need be, that never hurts. If you wanna get your hands a little more dirty, get the transmission pan dropped and checked, just to see if the transmission is dying or not (mine looked like a glitter bomb had gone off inside). If that all checked out, consider a new valve body, as those solenoids within are vital to MM (personally, I'd take the opportunity to install an upgraded one/one with a Transgo kit; from what I've seen, it's amazing. Should also reduce temps via faster shifts!). If THAT doesn't do it, it's something in the electrical line, which will be a royal bitch to diagnose (recently booked a customer car that replaced an engine harness due to rodents...36 hours of labor. Yikes).

Make sure to get back to us, I'm super curious how your case turns out. This is my last real drivetrain performance gremlin; once it's solved I can fully devote myself to making my damn interior stopping rattling/squeaking/tapping.

Hall Stevenson 11-10-2018 09:37 PM


Originally Posted by Bonesg35x (Post 7154079)
Work done already to address this issue:
- Replaced shifter assembly - as suggested by Infiniti ( Did not work ) Cost: $1000.00
- New valve body/TCM - as suggested by Infiniti , was covered under my used car warranty ( IT DID NOT WORK ! ) only had to pay $700 under warranty, would've been $2,800 otherwise..

Sorry, not any help with this comment, just a question or two... Infiniti suggested to replace the shifter assembly, did so, it didn't fix it, and they charge you ? Same with the valve body. How does that work ? It's a different story if you told them "replace part 'x'" and they do so and it doesn't solve the issue but here these fixes were solutions they came up with !

Bonesg35x 12-06-2018 11:01 PM

I had both the shifter assmebly and the Valve body done at my Transsmisison shop.. But the car was diagnosed at Infiniti and they reccommened these solutions. You can see why I am reluctant to fix the combination meter, after blowing cash on thier reccommendations.:mad:
After I went back and said that these suggested fixes didn't work, they spent a half the day (or a few hours) looking the matter, at not charge, mechanics said that Nissan Techs on the phone would say the next logical fix would be the combintaion meter... uhhh! That's the last thing i want to do..

I'm checking my fluid and tranny condition next week, but everyone says it's fine where I go. I will update everyone after that!

cswlightning 12-07-2018 01:21 PM

I certainly haven't read all of that but the diagnosis from the dealership said something about a persistent pending MM switch code, but the switch tested fine. I'm sure you've already checked around but it's got to be something related to the signal of that switch... Either the wiring, or a computer misinterpreting it. I'd be interested to see what it would look like if an LED test light were wired up to the MM switch, and observed while driving. You could also hook up that setup to each switch in the shifter assembly to confirm that each is behaving properly. Maybe you could take the car to an automotive electrical specialist instead of an indy or dealership, and have them check the dynamic continuity of every single transmission wire and the correct signal output from every related computer.

It doesn't seem like the combination meter is the likely problem to me either considering how poor of a design it would be to integrate such a crucial transmission function into that part when there's already dedicated electronics for that.
If you really want to confirm you can get a used cluster for ~100 on ebay, and I can't imagine it would take more than an hour to swap that out. You could probably find somebody local with a parts car who would be willing to let you swap clusters for free in their driveway and only buy it if it solves your issue, especially if you buy something else from them at the same time.

What I'm getting out of this post is "never buy an older car with an automatic transmission". 6MT gang for life.


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