|
Cam & Crank sensor problem
Changed my cam & crank sensors and now my idle is rough and will eventually stall. Sometimes when slowing down and coming to a stop it will stall. If I drive it at speed it runs fine then once tou take your foot off the gas and come to a stop it will rough idle and die? When first started it will idle 750rpm then jump to 900, then fall to 500 then jump up, you get the picture.
Also when you put the sensor in the engine, the O rings just barely touch the block. Is this normal? Seems like it should go about 1/8 further in What could it be? |
If you didn't use an OEM or Hitachi sensor then that's probably what's wrong.
|
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7162499)
If you didn't use an OEM or Hitachi sensor then that's probably what's wrong.
|
OEM angle head 23731-AL61D
OEM straight head 23731-6J90B Both are superseded by a newer revision that has a metal cap in the end but the previous revision is a lot cheaper and still good for 100k+ miles Hitachi was the OEM manufacturer for the early revision ones and can be gotten for even cheaper under their self-brand. I think CPS0008 (angled) and CPS0005 (straight) are the correct part numbers. Edit : CPS0006 for the crank sensor or OEM 23731-AL60E |
do you think the Hitachi from Rock auto will work?
|
Yep, they were the same ones that came factory installed on the G35, they last about 100k before they finally start getting oil inside the sensor and fail. The newer revision with the metal case supposedly doesn't have that issue but they're VERY expensive.
|
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7162512)
Yep, they were the same ones that came factory installed on the G35, they last about 100k before they finally start getting oil inside the sensor and fail. The newer revision with the metal case supposedly doesn't have that issue but they're VERY expensive.
|
Could be several things. If the "O" ring is not in the block cavity, the sensor is not all the way in. When the retaining bolt is tightened to the proper torque, the flange of the sensor should sit flat on the head block all around the bore. I had to remove the throttle body to access the driver side sensor. If you did that, did you use a new throttle body gasket and torque the bolts to specification? Did you disturb the throttle body butterfly valve when the throttle body was removed and electrical connector was disconnected? If so, you need to do a throttle body re-learn procedure. If you do a search you can find the procedure, it is posted on this forum somewhere.
|
Originally Posted by Mr.GEE
(Post 7162870)
I had to remove the throttle body to access the driver side sensor. If you did that, did you use a new throttle body gasket and torque the bolts to specification? Did you disturb the throttle body butterfly valve when the throttle body was removed and electrical connector was disconnected? If so, you need to do a throttle body re-learn procedure. If you do a search you can find the procedure, it is posted on this forum somewhere.
Originally Posted by Dan308
(Post 7162497)
What could it be?
|
Had stalling issues in my old ‘03 AT coupe. Bank 1 passenger side is pretty easy. Bank 2 takes some work I got away without taking off the throttle body. Crankshaft is located under the drivers side on the left sid elf the transmission. Should be a standard 10 hope that helps. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:16 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands