Can't get rid of code P0340 Camshaft position sensor bank 1
Hey all,
A couple weeks back my car threw me the p0340 trouble code. After doing some research, I replaced the sensor with one from amazon (it had good reviews), but the car still has trouble starting and the SES, VDC off, and slip lights are all still on. Will buying an OEM sensor actually fix the problem? Thank you guys in advance. |
Buy a hitachi, they were the OEM supplier for the first revision sensors and are a heck of a lot cheaper than the current revision OEM ones. They're good for 100k+ miles which is usually all folks need due to the age of their vehicle.
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7166936)
Buy a hitachi, they were the OEM supplier for the first revision sensors and are a heck of a lot cheaper than the current revision OEM ones. They're good for 100k+ miles which is usually all folks need due to the age of their vehicle.
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I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7166950)
I actually recommend people buy their sensors through Amazon because the price is usually cheaper. However Amazon is just a middleman that has a platform for folks to sell their goods through, you can buy very high end AND very low end stuff through them, just have to know exactly what you want beforehand.
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Look it up by part number.
Angled plug CPS0005 Straight plug CPS0008 If they're not available on Amazon you'll just have to shop around. |
Rockauto.com is a solid choice for automotive parts.
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7166954)
Rockauto.com is a solid choice for automotive parts.
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Originally Posted by Jay_VQ35
(Post 7166960)
Quick question before I purchase the sensor. Is it always the sensor at fault or could it be the harness that has an issue?
5% chance harness. |
So I bought the Hitachi sensor installed it and reset the ECU, but the code is still there and my car still cranks a couple of seconds before starting. No idea what's wrong with it.
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Just to verify, you replaced the STRAIGHT connecter sensor that was on the passenger side yes? And the harness wasn't contaminated with oil or anything yes? If it had oil in the connector you'll have to clean it out with electrical contact cleaner.
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7167163)
Just to verify, you replaced the STRAIGHT connecter sensor that was on the passenger side yes? And the harness wasn't contaminated with oil or anything yes? If it had oil in the connector you'll have to clean it out with electrical contact cleaner.
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Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness. PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness. ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read. BLACK goes to chassis ground. Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d4553cf57d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d9f003c23e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...7b81242cad.jpg |
Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
(Post 7167176)
Then the next step would be to verify the continuity of the wires.
3 wire harness. PINK goes back to pin 18 of the IPDM and pin 119 on the ECM, it should have battery voltage (12v nominal) at the CMP harness. ORANGE goes to pin 33 on the ECM, nondetectable voltage, it's a frequency and would need a oscilloscope to read. BLACK goes to chassis ground. Check continuity and resistance on each of those wires, I recommend unplugging both the IPDM and the ECM so there's no wierd readings, use a long jumper wire with a needle probe or a needle alligator clamp, you might need a second set of hands for it if you don't have the proper probes to keep contact at harnesses Each wire should have 0 or 1 ohm resistance depending on the meter (just stick the leads together against themselves and see what your meter reads for a closed circuit), they should have no continuity to ground except for the black wire which should be 0 or 1 ohm when measured against the negative battery terminal. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you go unplugging anything. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d4553cf57d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d9f003c23e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...7b81242cad.jpg |
That's wierd?
I would disconnect the battery and pump the brakes a few times to drain off any residual energy, wait 10min then plug the battery back in and see if the code goes away. |
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