Buying G35 and Need Help!!!!! (first car)
Hi Guys! I had to lie in my account making because I don't own a g35 :P .. YET!. I am looking forward to buying one with the money that I am going to make over this summer. I made this post because I have one in my eye sight right now but I really need some community help. In the ad [link: https://www.kijijiautos.ca/vip/10087...%2C-79.7624177 ] it says it has an electrical issue and wont start (cranks but no start). Now I have messaged the seller and s/he said the car has been started by his mechanic by clearing all the engine codes. S/he is looking to sell it quick because S/he got a new car and doesn't have time for this one anymore. I can snag a good deal with this and I am willing to get this issue fixed because all the other common problems with this car are already fixed. Any ideas with what the issue could be and how much it would cost to fix it? I have done some research and I think it could be a faulty engine computer but other than that the seller and I have no idea.
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One common problem for a G to crank but not turn is the Cam Shaft Sensor. Replacing it yourself is pretty easy and will cost between 30-100 depending if you want to go third-part or OEM.
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Electrical problems are easy to fix if you know your engine controls...
Canadian car? Parts are silly expensive north of the border. Its so bad that it makes no sense fixing anything big locally. |
Originally Posted by eric1254
(Post 7172009)
One common problem for a G to crank but not turn is the Cam Shaft Sensor. Replacing it yourself is pretty easy and will cost between 30-100 depending if you want to go third-part or OEM.
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Usually a no start on these cars is a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensors. Take an OBD code reader with u and scan the car to see what codes are popping up.
Also, these cars are known for having suspension parts wear out pretty quickly; bushings and bearings. Make sure those are good or have been replaced. Or else youll be spending a ton of money if u cant do it yourself. |
Originally Posted by lightmeupper
(Post 7172013)
Electrical problems are easy to fix if you know your engine controls...
Canadian car? Parts are silly expensive north of the border. Its so bad that it makes no sense fixing anything big locally. |
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
(Post 7172018)
Usually a no start on these cars is a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensors. Take an OBD code reader with u and scan the car to see what codes are popping up.
Also, these cars are known for having suspension parts wear out pretty quickly; bushings and bearings. Make sure those are good or have been replaced. Or else youll be spending a ton of money if u cant do it yourself. |
If they're OEM just assume they're toast. But you can look at the front tire wear too for uneven wear
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Originally Posted by Mehtab
(Post 7172025)
Thank you so much. How do I check if the bushings and bearings are good? and what about the control arms and axle because I have heard a lot about axle clicking with g35's and 350z's.
But its mainly the wheel bearings which go bad and the bushings on the front arms. |
At the age of these cars, any original rubber part regardless of mileage or visual condition is living on borrowed time, you might be able to get away with it if you're a grandma driver but if you drive it like a sports car something in the front end WILL go bad and you might not notice until you eat through a pair of expensive front tires (~$350 a pair for my Indy 500s).
If you're into making this car drive like it did from factory, plan to replace: front ball joints sway bar end links polyurethane sway bar bushings compression rods - replace rubber with Whiteline poly bushings immediately Whiteline control arm bushings Those are the parts that "go bad" most frequently but you might as well replace everything else too while you're at it since the Whiteline Essential bushings kit includes all the rest of the front end bushings as well as the differential bushing which is guaranteed bad if it isn't polyurethane or solid already. Then get an alignment. It makes a huge difference to the way the car drives as well as saving money on tires. Everyone who drives my car coming from worn OEM bushings is amazed at how well it responds to steering input especially at higher speeds, and it just goes where you put it regardless of speed or how hard you take a corner... and I'm stock spec suspension other than the bushings. |
I'm pretty sure you can simply swap the imperial instrument cluster for the metric one.
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Originally Posted by cswlightning
(Post 7172041)
At the age of these cars, any original rubber part regardless of mileage or visual condition is living on borrowed time, you might be able to get away with it if you're a grandma driver but if you drive it like a sports car something in the front end WILL go bad and you might not notice until you eat through a pair of expensive front tires (~$350 a pair for my Indy 500s).
If you're into making this car drive like it did from factory, plan to replace: front ball joints sway bar end links polyurethane sway bar bushings compression rods - replace rubber with Whiteline poly bushings immediately Whiteline control arm bushings Those are the parts that "go bad" most frequently but you might as well replace everything else too while you're at it since the Whiteline Essential bushings kit includes all the rest of the front end bushings as well as the differential bushing which is guaranteed bad if it isn't polyurethane or solid already. Then get an alignment. It makes a huge difference to the way the car drives as well as saving money on tires. Everyone who drives my car coming from worn OEM bushings is amazed at how well it responds to steering input especially at higher speeds, and it just goes where you put it regardless of speed or how hard you take a corner... and I'm stock spec suspension other than the bushings. |
Originally Posted by cswlightning
(Post 7172041)
At the age of these cars, any original rubber part regardless of mileage or visual condition is living on borrowed time, you might be able to get away with it if you're a grandma driver but if you drive it like a sports car something in the front end WILL go bad and you might not notice until you eat through a pair of expensive front tires (~$350 a pair for my Indy 500s).
If you're into making this car drive like it did from factory, plan to replace: front ball joints sway bar end links polyurethane sway bar bushings compression rods - replace rubber with Whiteline poly bushings immediately Whiteline control arm bushings Those are the parts that "go bad" most frequently but you might as well replace everything else too while you're at it since the Whiteline Essential bushings kit includes all the rest of the front end bushings as well as the differential bushing which is guaranteed bad if it isn't polyurethane or solid already. Then get an alignment. It makes a huge difference to the way the car drives as well as saving money on tires. Everyone who drives my car coming from worn OEM bushings is amazed at how well it responds to steering input especially at higher speeds, and it just goes where you put it regardless of speed or how hard you take a corner... and I'm stock spec suspension other than the bushings. is this the kit? https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...it-p-8608.html |
That's a good, comprehensive one. However if you can't DIY the replacement bushings labor will kill your wallet. Most aren't that hard but it's a lot of labor hours to replace them all.
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In all honesty, if you can't turn your own wrenches to some degree then you're probably better off buying/leasing a new car with a warranty.
Otherwise the shop rates are going to destroy your bank account. |
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