Calling all G35 guru's!
 

So I'm having really bad idle issues as well as extended crank times. I've done everything to fix the cel lights and it still idles low almost dying at one point then it takes so long to crank. As far as driving goes it hauls *** and drives as it should zero issues with that. Its already seen Multiple mechanics and none can figure it out. One thing I can mention is I just purchased the car and the idle was not acting this way before it happened after I cleaned the throttle body but I had moved the butterfly plate and let it shut on its own. Here is everything I've done so far. TIA to anyone who helps solve this issue.

°new spark plugs and coils°new vvt solenoids °New camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor°ecu reset°accelerator pedal position relearn°idle relearn°lucas fuel cleaner°New Pcv valve °new air filter°throttle body cleaned°maf cleaned°new injectors

http://youtube.com/watch?v=vs_u3OcoD2s&feature=youtu.be

I think I hear an exhaust leak in your video, could be throwing off the reading to the upstream O2 air/fuel sensors.

When you say NEW cam/crank sensors, did you buy OEM or Hitachi sensors? Or did you get some aftermarket brand.

When you did the idle air relearn did you do the pedal dance or did you use the Android app Nissan Datascan 2. There's a lot of requirements that need to be met before you can actually do the reset and you can SEE if the car is ready with NDS2 then just press a button (electric load switch, transmission temp, etc all have to be met in order to do the calibration). With the pedal dance method you have to verify all those conditions yourself without actually seeing what state the ECM is in but the pedal dance will LOOK LIKE it works whether it actually did or not.

Just watching the tach I'd say you have a vacuum leak, but my ears tell me you also have an exhaust leak which can cause the same problem.

EDIT: Your description of a long start tells me it's not Hitachi or OEM Genuine Nissan cam/cranks sensors since that's a classic problem with aftermarket sensors. Hitachi is the OEM manufacturer of the sensor, these engines are widely known to have issues with ALL aftermarket sensors.

Yes I should have added that in the description. The sensors are in fact aftermarket my mistake.. When I did the idle relearn I did the pedal dance and yes I have been reading some other fourms about this some said that the steering wheel has to be straight along with accessories off. One thing I can add is when I did the idle relearn my driver's door was open and the steering wheel was not straight so I'm almost certain I'm not doing it right.

I can guarantee the idle air calibration didn't work. It's super easy to do with an Android phone and I think it costs $30 total for everything you need.

BAFX OBD2 adapter
Nissan Datascan2 for android.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...hl=en_US&gl=US


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...5bef2f0a73.jpg

Good looking out man! I already bought the scanner I'm waiting for it to come today and I'll get the app too.

Alright so I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors both driver and passenger side with oem hitachi ones. Now the car won't start. It cranks and turns over for a second then dies on me. Everything is hooked up properly too.

Double check to verify you didn't bend a pin in one of the connectors, it's very easy to do.

Everything checks out to be 100% I'm just confused now it cranks and starts for a split second then dies

Also one quick revision the driver side camshaft position sensor is from Z1 motorsports OEM one.

Heres a video of what it's doing.

also here's a video of the idle relearn attempt it failed.. if you see anything that doesn't look right please let me know.

I would swap out those sensors 1 at a time with the others you have to eliminate which one is the problem. You might have gotten a defective sensor.

As for the idle relearn, is the transmission up to temp?

No I didn't mess with the transmission I didn't know I had to warm it up. But I have to see now why the car won't stay running

Alright so here's what happened. I removed the driver side angled sensor and put the old one and what do you know? It started right up no issues but now I get a p0350 code with the old sensor I already ordered a replacement because the "brand new" Z1 motorsports sensor is defective

Z1 will replace it for the cost of shipping and handling. They're pretty good to work with.

P0350 isn't a cam sensor code, that's usually from a malfunctioning coil pack OR a poor engine ground. Clean up the ground system first, there's two bolted to the front top of the timing chain cover for a 5AT, one larger gauge wire bolted to the passenger/right side of the timing cover and it connects to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir (remove the single 10mm bolt for the reservoir and lift straight up, don't need to disconnect the hose), lastly the battery negative connects to the chassis right next to the battery.

Disconnect every one of those bonded points, wire brush the mating surfaces AND the bolt, apply a thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease like ILSCO DEOX or Ideal NOALOX, bolt everything back together. If that doesn't do it double check all your coil packs to make sure you don't have a bent pin or a harness not fully snapped together, clear the code and if it comes back swap out coil packs 1 at a time until you figure out which one is bad.

Also bench test your coil packs, this video at the 2:28 mark does a decent enough job explaining how to do it.