doing a little clean up and forgot i still had some stuff.

i have a set of HR sedan springs, koni yellow rear shocks and i have koni yellow front shocks. ( one is in good condition the other is blown )

im willing to give them up. anyone in northern jersey or nyc area only.

free by the way.

PM if need more details on stuff.

 

just PM'ed!! Consider them taken (if that's cool with apintojr!!)

 

check PM.

 

A little OT but anyone have any recommendations for brake rotors/pads for the X? I could care less about brake dust as long as the brake performs. The only problem is that my rears have worn before my fronts. Supposedly I only have 2 1/2mm left on the pads so I have to change them pretty soon.

What sort of tools do I need to do the swap myself?

 

I have 87k and they wont cover it, lame

 

if you dont care about brake dust. Run OEM setup.

tools... front brakes needs like a 12mm or 13mm to remove two caliper bolts. one screwdriver/prybar or your hand to pull off the caliper. Then you need a 15mm/17mm or 19mm to remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts and then if your rotor comes off great if not a hammer or so. You need a C-clamp to compress the piston back in.

the rears are just about the same, i dont remember if the G had twist in pistons in the rear or not so you MIGHT need a caliper twisting tool found at autozone or etc in the form of a cube or harborfreight kit. Runs about $10-35.

Simple hand tools and limited know-how will take care of this. If you want to bleed the brakes you need a 2nd person and like a 8mm or 10mm to crack the screws open.

brakes for a noob can be done in about an hour a side so 4 hours all together.

 

best setup i had was some stoptech XD rotors OEM size with some hawk HPS pads.

now i using Stoptech XD rotors with Centric posi quiet pads. i do not like the centric pads. selling point was suppose to be a beg reduction on brake dust but i get even more.

 

Are the jacking points the same as the RWD? I think the RWD uses a notch at the front and then the diff? I'll have to go harbor freight since I pretty much have the wrenches but don't have the jack, floor stands, torque wrench and the bigger tools I guess. How big a C clamp do you think I'd need?

How much better were they than OEM? I care only about performance when it comes to braking rather than dust. EDIT: I should add I mean relative performance. I won't be taking it to the track and I know that racier pad/rotor combos are inherently louder and create more dust.

I'm guessing this is the first brake job on the car since there is only about 27.8K miles on it but when I was at the dealer they had the front pads had 6-7mm and the rears had 2 1/2. Do you guys think they were replaced before? I mean why else would there be such an uneven wear? Because of the VDC or? They didn't give me a reading on the rotor itself so what's your take? Should I get them refinished? Which would be in a PITA since I'd have to take it somewhere and leave the car on jackstands or should I get new rotors?

 

lifting is same.

you can avoid getting a C-clamp if you get the harbor freight brake tool. But i love the c-clamp for the fronts, a lot faster. just get the biggest one you can find. It will come in handy around the house and etc.

 

Any update on your tirewear after the trip? I sourced the coupe fronts and am close to sourcing some sedan sport rears but I'm worried about mileage. Most people have 45-65K miles on em that I've seen but they're selling for pretty cheap.


Thanks. I ordered some stuff from Harbor Freight since they didn't have everything in stock at the store. Now I just gotta source the OEM pads and I don't know about the rotors. Don't know if they're in factory spec for resurfacing.

 

Any X's want to get an aluminum undershroud? Getting another group buy run together.

 

I have about 2K on these tires and am not seeing any noticeable camber wear. The specs are right around -1.75 on the rear which really isn't bad. I actually saw several stock BMW's and Mercedes on my road trip that looked to be running more camber from the factory. I'll keep an eye on them and rotate them every 5K or so.

I wouldn't worry too much about that kind of mileage on springs. Some people say they wear out fairly quick, but I don't think they do unless you are tracking the car regularly. I think my rears had right around 40K on them which was still less than the 50K my stock springs have. I think I paid around $20 plus shipping.

 

Just traded in my car and have a set of H&R sedan springs for sale if anyone is interested let me know Via PM or blue22flames00@aol.com thx

 

anyone have an idea of how much Z s-techs drop an X over Sedan S-techs? Especially up front?

 

What is the drop of the z s-techs and add about .5 to an inch.

Since flickr is being a pain right now. Here are some pics when I had z s-techs up front.