Hi there,

Just bought an 04 g35x sedan. I changed plugs, oil, did a coolant and tranny flush, tranny gasket, both cam position sensors, and both vvt solenoids (dealer parts).

So I'm getting the damn P0011 and P0021 codes,

P0011 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)

P0021 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)

I changed the cam position sensors and the vvt solenoids, and the codes are still there.

The only symptom Im experiencing is a hard start. Other than that the car runs fine and has lots of power.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Not sure what to tell you, I had issues like that on my first Maxima and nothing I tried worked. Sensors, cleaning the solenoids, blowing out the passages, etc. Any time I'd hit the rev limiter (and with cold tires, cold pavement and not much room to get out onto the main street some mornings it happened at least every couple of months) my car would go into limp home mode. Pull over, check the code (always related to the codes you're getting), clear the codes, turn off my car, restart after 10 seconds and it was fine again until I hit the rev limiter. Even had it in a couple shops, no one could figure it out.

 

I have come to the conclusion that my timing is off. Meaning I have to do the timing chain

 

Ouch

 

It could be your crankshaft sensor as well. But, you already threw enough parts at it in my opinion. I would try some other diagnosing before jumping to a timing chain. I did my timing chain a few years ago and it's pretty big job.

Did you check your oil pressure? I know on later model cars it was caused by some o-rings failing on the timing cover. I'd check your oil pressure first to make sure it's within spec.

Jim Wolf Technology has some printouts you can download and put over the cam sprockets without taking anything apart.

Maybe there is some blockages in the the passages to the VVT solenoids. Try running some ATF through the engine or mixing oil with fuel injector cleaner for a little bit. Then change out the oil see if the code comes back.

 

Thanks for your optimism hehe. But the car has 300km on it, it's time to do it. This just went from a winter beater to a definite keeper. You said you did the timing chain a few years ago, can you point me out to a good kit? So far I found one at z1performance it says oem Nissan parts. For like $378. Also is there a write up on this topic? It would definitely help.

@@i changed the crank sensor as well@@

thanks

 

Well, you shouldn't really need to do the timing chain. They don't usually go bad and my car had about 100K miles on it when I did mine. I only ended up doing it,because I had to do the water pump and when I attempted to take it off, I think I skipped some teeth.

I made a write up when I did mine: https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ing-chain.html

I would only use Nissan parts and I bought mine from the dealer. I think I put most of the parts and numbers that I bought.

 

i don't understand, if the timing is off then what do I need to do if not the chain?

 

You'd want to get the engine to TDC on cylinder #1 and then verify the marks on the crank/camshaft all line up. There are some colored links on the chain as well, but they might be worn out and hard to see. There is a printout from Jim Wolf where you take the covers off that go over the cam shafts and you can see if they line up and you won't have to take the thing apart.

I would check your oil pressure though to make sure it's within spec first, before attempting that. It relies on oil pressure and if you have leaks or something messing with the chain won't fix it.

If you have a diagnostic tool you can see the timing as well and I think it should be like 15 degrees.

I'd even take it to a Nissan/Infinti dealer first for them to hook up to their Consult tool. Tell them you want to check the oil pressure, engine timing, etc...

You don't want to just jump in and try changing the chain. It took me a few weekends, but I was lucky that I had another car to drive at the time.

 

You know what, you're right before I changed the two cam sensors the car was starting fine. Its only after I changed the sensors thats it hard started. But the codes were present in both occasions. Only reason I changed the sensors if because of the codes it would set off the check engine lamp but the car was running fine. Im gonna take it to the dealer to get it scanned.

 

Yea, I would stop throwing parts at it and you can't rely on just a code to tell you what the problem is all time.

Only thing I would say is try OEM sensors, but I believe you stated they were from the dealer. I'd make sure your oil pressure is good though. I think those codes are signs you have low oil pressure, but not low enough for the oil light to come on. That could be caused by a leak or blockage going up to the VVT solenoids, so I would try sticking some ATF or fuel cleaner in your crankcase. That might remove any blockages and then change the oil and see if the code goes away. You can also rent/buy an oil pressure tester and I believe it would screw in where the sender is at the bottom of the block. If your oil pressure is low then you'd want to find out why, which could be a bunch of reasons.

Also, did you replace those VVT metal gaskets? I replaced mine, since after the 11 years I've owned my car and I had to do my valve cover gaskets the VVT gaskets were pretty worn out as well.

Make sure you're coolant temperature sensor is working as well and you don't have any ABS codes. I think it relies on those signals working without any problems either.

If you do decide to do the timing chain, I would add the water pump and thermostat option as well and the front timing kit gasket set for an extra 42.00. I wouldn't mess with cam chains/sprockets unless you need to though.

Read the FSM below and go to section 167. It's for an 05 coupe, but I don't think the information is that different for your car.

http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe/2005/ec.pdf

 

Ok so I took it to the dealership, they ran the oil pressure test and it was fine. They checked the sensors all 3 they were fine. They wanted to start checking the ignition but that was way too expensive so I took the car back.

I replaced the vvt gaskets they came with the new solenoids.

I checked the ignition timing with my obd tool and in Park it is 15-16 degrees. Is that within range?

Im going to open up the timing covers and check if they're lined up...

 

Hmm, that's weird and I have to say I'm glad it's not my car, lol just kidding. I don't know man, I mean if the solenoids are good and the oil pressure was fine, I say it has to be something mechanical. Not sure why they would start checking the ignition system...

Did they happen to give you the oil pressure readings? It should be > 14 psi when idling and > 43 psi when > 2K rpm.

The only thing left according to the FSM would be a camshaft, timing, sprocket, or blockage causing the top of the engine to have less oil pressure then required. I do know there is gasket inside the timing cover that directs oil to the sensors, I think it's only on the HR engine though, but not positive. I've read posts of this gasket failing and it exhibits symptoms like you're showing where nothing else fixes the problem. I would try sticking something in the crankcase like SeaFom or Marvel Mystery Oil to help see if it can clear any passages up.

Yes, that is the correct ignition timing it should be about 15+-5 degrees at idle in P/N. The mechanical timing is different though and you'd have to at a minimum take the camshaft covers off and try using those Jim Wolf Technology templates with the engine at TDC. I've never used those templates though myself.

Do you know if any kind of work was done to the car prior? I'm hoping the previous owner didn't just clear the codes and rip you off with this car.

Do you see any PIDS or data named: INT/V Tim or INT/V Sol with your scan tool?

This what the INT should read

INT/V Tim
Idle: -5 to 5CA
2K: 0 - 30CA

INT/V Sol
Idle: 0 to 2%
2K: 0 - 50%

 

I got the car for free, my buddy went to the bin and left me the car. So that's why I'm doing this otherwise I wouldn't even look at this car let alone buy it. I hate Japanese cars and on top of that ones with 300k on them.

The oil test read 40psi at idle and 50psi at 2000 rpm.

I will try that next, and also will try to change the timing with the obd tool you can do it 2 degrees I read.

 

Where can I get these templates for the timing?