They are on 350ms and off 350ms. I did the measurements about a year ago on a scope. I would show you the link, but apparently my ISP decided to kill all .PNG's files. I will check at home to see if I still have the hard copies. I ask because you could actually get away with resistors rated for lower powers, such as using 20W resistors when during your "on" time you would burn 25W. The duty cycle is 50% max, so then on average, you burn 12.5W. Of course that might not be the ideal solution if you already have the higher power resistors, but if other people already have the lower ones, it would still be POSSIBLE to use.

 

I think it would come down to how efficiently the resistor can dissipate heat at that point. For those 350mS you will be doubling the rated value of the resistor (if you go with 12.5 watts), which over time may cause it to heat up if it heats up faster then it cools down. I did my testing with 11 ohm 6 watt resistors with the car off and they were extremely hot to the touch within 10 seconds of turning the turn signal on.

In my circumstance, with the car off, the 6 watt resistor was seeing ~13 watts 50% of the time, for an average of 6.5 watts. As I said, it was hot enough to burn my finger within 10 seconds.

Now if you are talking about going 20 vs. 25 there probably isn't much to be concerned about, but for the few dollars they cost it curtainly isn't worth the risk.

 

I agree with you, I don't recommend exceeding the specs, just saying sometimes it is POSSIBLE. A lot of the 20W+ resistors are basically cased in heatsinks. I don't mean to cause controversy, just discussion

 

No worries, I understand where you're coming from.

It would be nice to have a wide range of resistors to play with to determine what the upper limit of resistance is before the BCM decides the bulb is malfunctioning. If you could get away with a 22 ohm resistor you could go with a 10 watt resistor with no worries!

 

For those that are interested…

Last night I had the other module installed and finalized all the wiring… good news is everything works perfect! Bad news is; after pulling half my hair out, we gave up of the @#%&ing load resistors.

If you’ve been following the thread you know that the idea of the load resistors is to replace the OEM turn signal bulb so there is no flashing on the upper taillight lenses (the whole point of this mod for me)… Multiple phone calls to Kevin (thanks bro!) and extensive ohm resistance calculations as well as measuring current and resentence direct… every combo of load resistors we tried had issues… The 25W 10ohm is NOT the right choice – it gets too hot, too quick. This isn’t a huge issue unless hazards are on for long duration. So we wired 2 X 10W 10ohm in series – it stayed substantially cooler for 30 min – they work great, until you turn the headlights on – then they blink fast as if the bulb or fuse has blown… We tried different configurations of various wattage and ohm resistance and each had a flaw…

So the only option was to wait and order various size resistors to see if some other size would work - or try something different… I wanted this mod complete, so I wasn’t willing to order and wait… so – we painted the bulb with high heat resistant paint (for engine/exhaust manifolds)… didn’t work as well as panned – light still emitted from base of bulb so the lenses still lit up faint. I suppose if one were to use black paint and mask off the bulb properly, this could be a viable solution… we only had gray paint, and it was getting real late so we went to the final solution…

As ghetto as it sounds, the solution ended up being aluminum foil! Aluminum has zero translucence, is heat resistant and is pliable so we were able to shape it as a dome around the bulb and secure it by molding it around the plastic base… because it is malleable, we were able to place it in the OEM housing… now there is a bulb just like always, the BCM is happy and zero light shines through when turn signal is on.

Sometimes the simplest things that seem rudimentary are the best solutions.

 

BTW – the “clicking” sound from the relay is gone too… apparently different relays truly do have different sounds… the one I initially used had a “thick”click that was audible from driver seat… I replaced it with a “thin” click that is not heard from driver position.

Bosch is known to make quality relays – but it could be trial an error for those attempting this mod. I haven’t tried the one Kevin provides so I’m not certain if it’s audible or not…

Just thought I’d share as much info as possible so others don’t go through all the trouble of figuring this all out…

 

Our relays are actually weather resistant, so I think you will find they are pretty quiet. Our relays can be mounted under the hood, something you shouldn't do with a 'normal' Bosch style relay.

 

Very, very cool. Original. Thumbs up.

 

I may need to have you send me some... the right side has the "thick click" but the left side does not... I don't know what he did with the first 2 you sent... I'll call you later...

 

Thanks

 

here's a vid of led and oem bulb blining... I think this is what you are thinking of doing?

 

That top bulb needs LED's for it to look right. That fade in and out is really apparent with the lower led's blinking.

 

I only showed it because STOOF with a coupe wanted to do it... it will look entirely different on a coupe.

My car will have the entire OEM portion of the blinker lense painted body color - it won't be seen at all... an it doesn’t bilk, I took the vid before omitting the blink so STOOF could see it…

 

looks great guys

there's so much info in this thread most of which I didn't understand so I didn't bother reading it all.

Is this available for 05-06 Sedan tail lights ?

Does it work perfectly for hazzard lights, turn signals, brake lights, and parking lights ? Basically just eliminating the OEM rear signals ??

thanks

 

should be, but I don't think any have done it yet... Kevin @ KP can answer more specific

Yes