Looks good !!

 

Does it get scratches and rock chips out as well?

 

^That would depend greatly on how deep the scratches/ chips are, and the ammount of time you spend on the first step (sanding w/500 grit)

I did get quite a few scratches out of mine though.

 

The scratches mostly go away with the plastic-x but the small rock chips don't, so I think its worth a try then!

 

Could you post pics of that process, I was considering this for a long time!

 

im thinking about getting this, but im not sure if the problem is on the inside or outside of the headlight.

 

If you can get the scratches out for the most part with PlastX, the 3M kit shouldn't have any problem getting them out entirely. What few rock chips I had were either removed or became almost invisible.

 

FYI - you can achieve the same effect using a random orbital buffer with Plastix. Been doing it twice a year for that past 3 years.

You can also polish and wax a G35 in about 1 hour with a random orbital. I love it.

 

^ not quite, I have used a Random Orbital with M105 and Plastx and it helped but no were near what 3m headlight restoration did

 

Nah Dave. Don't wanna "call you out" or anything, but facts are the PlastX won't produce the same results.

I know because I've done exactly that before, 1hr with PlastX on a RO buffer, and the results were good, but nowhere NEAR what the 3M kit produced in less time.

 

I thought that mine might have a good bit of damage on the inside, but once I finished I realized that 95% was actually the outside of the lens.
There looks to be a small bit of a problem on the inside top (where it's really close to the shiny bezel)

The biggest problem on the inside though is that the "chrome" bezel has started to tarnish (guessing from UV) but that will be fixed very soon by a little bake&paint

I say just go for it, I had more than half left over, so even if you had to redo it or do the inside, that shouldn't be a problem.

Just beware, I've heard (never anything official though) that the inside of the lens has some sort of UV coating that you would be stripping off if you were to do the inside... although obviously if they're starting to have problems on the inside, that coating must be starting to go anyway.

Just do the outside first though, and you'll have a much better idea of what's going on inside the lens.

 

Like Dave B, I've been using Plast-X for about a year now and have had great results with it. I'm using a Porter Cable 7424 with a wool backer underneath a mircofiber hat with the buffer speed set to 4.

Aside from a few small rock chips that I couldn't remove, all yellowing, hazing and small scratches were removed. I sat the car in the garage afterward, put on a coat of SG on the headlights, left it indoors for 2 hours to let the SG cure, buffed lights, reapplied, waited another hour, buffed again and done.

Headlights still look as good now as when I did them 9 months ago.

It's all in the application. Even a buffer with a lower grade pad or hat will give less than optimal finishes.

 

anyone else heard of this?
ill take a picture and see what you guys think is the problem.

 

the coating thing is true i saw bmpnride's healights and he tried to clean something on the inside and it destroyed the headlight coating

 

+1, don't try it or you will regret it. Someone (maybe socalted) did it a long while back and had to spend ALOT of time to get the film off.

I've used Meguirs Swirl X on headlights with good results. It's not meant for headlights but is an abrassive compound used for paint to remove swirls and light scratches. It works miracles on you B-Pillars! Anyways, something to consider. I followed it up with some Plast-X. Have to give it some elbow grease